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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I have searched the posts, and could find anything for my set up...
I am wondering if anyone uses any oil additives in their SBC. I have a 327, not rebuilt, 87,000 miles, and was wondering if I should use anying like MOA or anything like it, or just use regular 10W30 for my engine.
Can someone please advise? I will probably be rebuilding the engine over the winter, and upgrading the cam when I do that as well...not sure if this makes a difference.
Thanks for the help!
 

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There are a couple good threads in the last 12 months.
When breaking in use oil that has the Zn in it..think its Zn, not meant for road use.
When assembling everything gets lubed up liberally, using the manufactures recomendantions..they often supply tubes with the components.
After the 1st run in , 100 miles, change oil filter and use the grade suitable for your weather temps.
I have never used additives, other than slick 50 after 10,000 miles run in...a once off each 60,000 miles.
I have used slick 50 on everything from my lawn motor, chain saws, line trimmers, to my vintage cars, race cars, wifes car and camaro.
yeah I know they got done in the courts a few years ago, but I have seen inside these engines over the yrs, in partcular the race car that used to get stripped after each meet.
Once we started using it,we never had to replace bearing shells or anything for more than a season, before we would go thru several sets.
My lawn mower is a vintage reel mower from the 1950s
My chainsaw is nearly as old as me.
 

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I now add EOS or cam break in lube at every oil chan on all m flat tappet engines.I vary between 30W or 15w40w Shell Rotella on both my hot rods.I usally by Comp Cams break in lube at the speed shop.I also have he filter bypass blocked off and exclusivly use Moroso racing filters on both my hotrods because they hae lower restricton which is prefered when running no bypass.On the race car I change the l twice per season and get between 75 and 100 runs per oi change.The oil looks as good coming out as it does going in.Not bad for a 7200rpm bigblck with a flattappet cam.
 

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SM 10W-30 conventional oil is not going to be enough for a flat tappet cam. Phosphorus is limited to 800ppm max which means zinc is not going to be any higher than 1000ppm (ZDDP is about 5:4 zinc-to-phosphorus). Most oils are less than that....Mobil-1 (which I run in my later model roller cam cars) usually comes in around 600-800ppm on the oil analysis reports I've been able to find.

Jegs has their brand of EOS on sale right now for $8 a bottle. Says it'll bring the zinc content of 6 quarts of oil up 420 ppm.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/28060/10002/-1
 

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Oreilly Auto Parts sells an Oreilly Oil Treatment (Zinc Additive) for $2.29 that works the same
 

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Spectrum Motor Guard 10W40. 1800 PPM of zinc NO ADDITIVE NEEDED. This is the same oil Summit sells as their own.
 

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I use Amsoil in my 350 and NO additive. Dont play 'chemist' by adding stuff to somebody's oil product. You dont know what kind of cocktail you are brewing when you do this. Most oil makers also say that adding 'stuff' to their product will void its warranty as well. Stick to a good oil, drive it, change it per the oil makers recommendation and then follow Steps info. on break in of a newly rebuilt engine.
Here are Amsoil's specs, plenty of ZDDP for any kind of engine configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I use Amsoil in my 350 and NO additive. Dont play 'chemist' by adding stuff to somebody's oil product. You dont know what kind of cocktail you are brewing when you do this. Most oil makers also say that adding 'stuff' to their product will void its warranty as well. Stick to a good oil, drive it, change it per the oil makers recommendation and then follow Steps info. on break in of a newly rebuilt engine.
Here are Amsoil's specs, plenty of ZDDP for any kind of engine configuration.
OK...good advice! Thanks for the help from everyone.
So what about Brad Penn oils? They seem to have the added zinc and phospherous needed that you guys have been talking about. Is this a good choice? http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/High-Performance/SAE-10W30.aspx
Brad Penn 10w30 wt Hi-Performance Oil with ZDDP
 

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Yep thats the penn oil we use on break in, from there we just use what ever brand is on special, so long as it is not re built oil..re refeined... 10/40 because that suits our weather temps all yr round (in deg C)
I do oil /filter changes easter (just before winter) and Oct (Spring)
Admittadly Im running dedicated LPG, (on a LPG designed engine..compression/cam/torences to run a cold engine, 165 deg) which according to the guru experts should run specialists oils/additives....When we pulled the engine dowm after over 120,000 miles on lpg...other than worn valve guides which is normal at that milage, everything was as if it had done only a few 1000 miles.
In saying that carbureation and timing was set for the engine CORECTLY...if it is not then expect wear from those areas, not lubrication.
 

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I would run some seafoam thru the crankcase and carb @ every oil change (USE AS DIRECTED on label) and then use the green stuff! The old school kendall gt green oil is great stuff imo. You can find the oil under the brad-penn label these days. I use the seafoam to help keep my oil drain galleries, lifters, etc... clean.

Doh didnt read all the replies.... lol i see others suggesting brad penn already.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So...I do NOT need to use anything like the Penn oil with additives unless I am going to rebuild my engine...then I use it for the break in period? Is that correct?
 

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With a new engine, break in happens in the 1st 20 secs for the cam and a few minutes to bed the rings..you will hear the rings bed in.
The Zn additives are because of controversy regarding modern oils failing the cam break in
Sort of better safe than sry attitude.
If everything is ok run the car for 10 to 50 miles, drop the oil and filter, and replace with std oil and new filter
I usually run another 500 to 1000 miles then do another oil change.
Split the oil filter and inspect inside.
Occassionaly one gets an engine that the rings dont bed in...
This is usually IDed by excessive oil usage...
Get a couple 100 miles up on the engine normal driving, then let it rip, sitting up close up on the red line, a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
With a new engine, break in happens in the 1st 20 secs for the cam and a few minutes to bed the rings..you will hear the rings bed in.
The Zn additives are because of controversy regarding modern oils failing the cam break in
Sort of better safe than sry attitude.
If everything is ok run the car for 10 to 50 miles, drop the oil and filter, and replace with std oil and new filter
I usually run another 500 to 1000 miles then do another oil change.
Split the oil filter and inspect inside.
Occassionaly one gets an engine that the rings dont bed in...
This is usually IDed by excessive oil usage...
Get a couple 100 miles up on the engine normal driving, then let it rip, sitting up close up on the red line, a few times.
Excellent! Thanks for the advice! Just what I was looking for! :beers:
 

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Now before you start posting back "Oh Im running hot"
like the oil pump getting replaced on a rebuild, treat the radiator and water pump in the same manner
you dont re use the oil pump cause of potentual lack of lubing...
The cooling system treat the same way
get you radiator header removed and the cores manually cleaned out...Im not saying flush it Im saying dismantle and clean!!!!!
The stock raditors are why over built...so you can have several core tubes block and never know and several more partly blocked
Bits of gasket and stuff break off , block these partly blocked cores then it runs hot....
 
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