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I've been using the tall Wix for my SBC. Most know what's been working best for you, for those that don't some unbiased info here on 5 popular oil filters.
 

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I have read/seen several reports showing the same thing. Fram is pure junk.

Heard several years ago NAPA Gold are made by WIX

I still have the canister filter on my 327 so just buy the inner element
 

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Wix and Napa Gold are the same. I will use either-or, whichever is cheaper. A search of the net will show a couple different places with good deals if you buy a case of Wix at one time. Even cheaper is if they offer a "Master Pack" which has the individual elements shrink wrapped, and all put in one box, only thing missing in an MP is the individual element box. Usually have to put an MP at the end of the part number.

Not sure if I am allowed to show these 2 links, but I've had good luck using these 2 places for getting Wix/Napa Gold filters (I will take the links down if I am going against TC rules):

https://www.fleetfilter.com/
https://www.usafilterstore.com/
 

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I have been using a filter adapter without the factory bypass for decades on my daily driver small block. I have been using Purolater Pure-one filters for a very long time, they wont collapse internally seem to do a nice job filtering.


A few years ago I switched to synthetic oil (Amsoil Z-rod) and noticed my filters were getting plugged by lower than normal oil pressure on mechanical gauge. I pulled the filter and replaced it with another and pressure went back to normal. Cut open the plugged filter and cut a section of media out, squeezed out any remaining oil in the media in a vice and inspected the paper. It looked like build-up from decades of short trips that the conventional oil didn't handle well.
I would have never known my filter media was getting used up if I didn't eliminate the factory bypass.


A few months ago I added a non-bypass adapter to my 67 Camaro and have switched to Wix 51794 filters and all is well so far.


Sometime later this year I will have an opportunity to cut open one of the Wix and inspect and I will know for sure if I will stay with them.
 

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I found this YouTube that seemed a little more comprehensive and explained everything in more detail. After looking at several of these YouTubes I have to wonder if the OP YouTube had a axe to grind with Fram. None of the other YouTubes said any thing about rust and the first one kept harping in the rust.

Roger
 

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I'd like to see a more comprehensive evaluation based on performance. Things like pressure drop, flow, ability to filter down to a specific micron, etc. Simply looking at the components doesn't tell you which one will perform better.
 
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the first one kept harping in the rust.

Roger



The fram that he had was probably stored in a damp location or, it was really old.


Either way, anyone who cuts open an oil filter (even for only demo purposes) with a cut-off wheel instead of a filter cutter is going to lose a lot of credibility right off the bat.


I used to use Fram HP4 long long time ago and would find the cores collapsed from time to time.


Also the anti drain-back valve doesn't mean anything to us SBC and BBC guys and girls.
 

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been using fram all my life.
my 77 blazer has some where around 150K. miles and had nothing but fram
fram saved the engine in my Camaro when the cam went out
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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I am glad some have commented here with out bias. After watching the video I was convinced that Fram was terrible, so it is good others have stated their experience.

I guess if you wanted to use a particular brand filter, you could go purchase two of the one you want to use, go home and open one of them up to see the quality, and if you are disappointed, take the other one back for a refund.

I used to use Fram on everything, but about a year ago I discovered (on here) that Wix was the preferred filter. It's what is on my 69 now.

Why does the "Anti-Drain Back" not effect us? Do our engines not flow oil like the guy was saying?

Brett.....
 

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I actually had the cheap Fram collapse and lost oil pressure, same thing happened to a friend at the racetrack. That was quite a few years ago though.
 

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I use K&N on my LS swap.
 
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So few things stay the same. It's interesting to me that the quality of these brands hasn't changed; it's the same as it was when I was working as a master tech 15+ years ago. I would be interested to see if delco has maintained their quality as well. They were a good mid-level filter much like the purolator and Bosch demonstrated. I still run AC's on my daily drivers unless I get a great deal on wix or napa gold, usually in the master packs as mentioned above. However, for new builds or cam replacements or anything of that sort, the first few oil changes is wix/napa gold. Always.

If you are at the store you can tell a lot by looking down through the filter. You can usually see the valve material and get an idea of the spring. The more heavy-duty frams that you can get do away with the cardboard and use better materials, but that just gets them up to the quality of a mid-level filter at a higher price point than the others. I never buy fram.
 

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I too for years have used fram on daily drivers. Never had any reason to cut one open. Never had any issues that I found. No thrown rods, no camshaft issues,no low oil pressure. In my performance engines I use CarQuest gold. It is made by six as well. I also have never gone down the synthetic oil road. I use valvoline convintional oil, but recently started buying CarQuest oil made by valvoline and put in a CarQuest labeled bottle. Never had any oil related issues, never had a camshaft issue either. I don't use mechanic in a can zink additives either. Just my experiences.
 

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I use Wix on SBC and BBC and Mobile 1 filters on my LS Swaps
 
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Why does the "Anti-Drain Back" not effect us? Do our engines not flow oil like the guy was saying?Brett.....

The anti-drainback valve is only necessary if the oil filter is mounted in any orientation other than vertical with its opening to the top so it automatically stays full when the engine is off. If the filter is mounted in any other orientation the oil will drain from it when the engine is shut off and will need to refill every time the engine is started.
 

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Brett - Leander, Texas 1969 SS396
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Thanks! That makes total sense. With our designed engines, gravity is our friend. :)
 

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I am glad some have commented here with out bias. After watching the video I was convinced that Fram was terrible, so it is good others have stated their experience.



I guess if you wanted to use a particular brand filter, you could go purchase two of the one you want to use, go home and open one of them up to see the quality, and if you are disappointed, take the other one back for a refund.



I used to use Fram on everything, but about a year ago I discovered (on here) that Wix was the preferred filter. It's what is on my 69 now.



Why does the "Anti-Drain Back" not effect us? Do our engines not flow oil like the guy was saying?



Brett.....


Anti drain back is for when the filter is at an angle in the car to keep the oil from draining out when the engine is shut off. In most old chevys the filter is vertical so it doesn’t need it. In fact, it can add a small amount of back pressure just to flow past the valve


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Loosing oil pressure from a filter related problem likely wont happen if using the stock Chevy filter adapter. It has a bypass valve built in to flow oil past the filter in the event of extreme cold start and heavy use during that period so the filter doesn't burst. It's to protect the engine from people who don't know better. Also, if the filter media gets used up it will flow oil right past the filter maintaining oil pressure.

I use a non bypass adapter and if you don't keep an eye on your oil pressure gauge you could get in trouble because the pressure will drop if the filter media can't flow any more. That's why I think the Fram I had years ago collapsed inside, from extreme cold start. While I am always easy on my engines till the oils warm up this Fram didn't have a strong core. It still functioned and maintained oil pressure but, the collapsed core promted me to ditch Fram as a filter.

The benefit from using a non bypass adapter is it forces the filter to trap debris before the pump sends it to sensitive areas. When the filter can't handle any more debris the oil pressure will slowly drop under normal pressure and is telling you, you have a problem, stop the engine. You have to constantly be aware of your oil pressure gauge.

Some people think using non-bypass adapter is stupid and a recipe for disaster. I don't, I've read countless threads about engine damage from a whiped cam lobe or a faulty distributor gear, even a faulty fuel pump push rod. All of that could have been salvaged (rest of the engine)with a non-bypass filter adapter in my opinion.

The best filter in the world is just along for the ride if the stock bypass filter adapter spring is getting weak from age.
 

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I agree on the use of the non bypass valve, I have wiped out 3 solid lifter cams and have not seen any bearing issues and reused the last bearings once we tore it down, that convinced me for sure.

i don't have to worry about them getting plugged up, as i change the oil every 500 miles. Wix is the answer, if you buy them in the bulk pack of 12, they are just under $5 a piece
 
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