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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the torque specs for an oil pan using felpro's one peice gasket?
It's the one with the metal inserts in the bolt holes.

I found 72 inch/lb for the 1/4" bolts, 144 for the 5/16"s, for a standard gasket... nothing for the one piece. It came with the pan, no packaging or instruction sheet.
 

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The metal inserts are torque limiters, and the torque specs you gave are standard grade 5 dry torque values and good enough. It's a very forgiving gasket. Don't forget the dab o silicone at the corners.
 

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with those torque limiters in there I use my highly calibrated hand to torque to tite-a-nuf.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Make sure you get it good and tight , i wouldn't want it to fall off when i take it for a blast in yellowstone .
Mark.
Cool, does that mean this time she'll be worthy of some "Mark abuse"?

I went with 140 on the corners, the rest at 60. Darned Ace didn't have any cute lil button head stainless bolts, so I got 3 pan bolts that don't match...:confused: I then left Ace without getting the fittings for the oil pressure senders, so now I gotta go back. Ain't gonna repeat my "shoot oil on the cieling" performance like the last build.

Snowblower just ran out of gas at "almost done." Time for some lunch, finish "blowing", run to Ace, and should be back at it in an hour or so.

I did slide the roller lifters into thier bores just for fun.
 

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I will treat your car like i do mine , drive it like a stolen rental .
Mark.
Mark, still brings a smile to my face when I think about that 1st gear smoke job you did on that ricer in Billings last year.:)
john

sorry for the hijack of the thread - back to torque specs for Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My old manifold was rigged with an oil fill tube, so I bought 2 left side valve covers as I didn't need an oil fill and didn't trust it not to leak.

Dunno what I'm gonna do now... Probably fill it thru the llil hole with a tiny funnel and lots of time. I could open up the filler hole in one of the valve covers, it's cast in underneath, but I still don't trust em not to leak.

And ya, she is lookin pretty ain't she?

Family made me shut down the cam, suckin our bandwidth. More later maybe, need to put some stuff in front.

Came out with 7.25" pushrods.
 

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... Came out with 7.25" pushrods.
That sounds better than the 7.1" we talked about the other night :thumbsup:
I've never had one come in much off from that with a roller and alum heads.

"And ya, she is lookin pretty ain't she?" Yes, she is :yes:
 

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My old manifold was rigged with an oil fill tube, so I bought 2 left side valve covers as I didn't need an oil fill and didn't trust it not to leak.

Dunno what I'm gonna do now... Probably fill it thru the llil hole with a tiny funnel and lots of time........
My '67 is that way and it does take awhile to put the oil in. I got one of those funnels that has a tube and valve on the bottom of the container. Wedge the container in against something, fill it up and just crack the valve to let it fill.
Now the only other thing I've wondered about is that the engine might not be breathing well enough. Something to consider I guess.
 

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While on the area of subject, Oil pan, I just got my motor back running and suspected I had a rear oil pan seal leak or rear main leak. I took the time to use the one piece gasket, dabbed rtv in corners but not on the actual seal itself. I used a hi dollar blue viton main seal, clocked, dabbed the corners as usually and put the new oil pan on while motor was out. I am set to rock and roll , right? No such luck. From day one start up, I had this little drip right at the rear of the pan lip, I tightened and retightened, I did the old timers , dimple the pan rail lip up some. Still a drip.
Now I can't just raise motor to change pan or gasket as the TKO is right up against the trans tunnel. It has to come out and even it it did , to R&R oil pan and move straigt back, the flywheel and housing are in the way.
While motor is running, how do you tell if its a pan gasket leak or main seal? My first thought is that is is dripping at the lip and oil not being slung out to the crank flange. Many of you may know that there is very little observation room there to actually see where a drip could come from. It is coming from one of the two and I am betting my hog livers on the gasket.

Anybody got any better observation points?

Jim, if you are listening, you prolly had better sense than I to apply a smear of rtv on the rear lip and if you did not, may want to do this while the motor is on the stand.

Why, why does this have to happen to people over 60 with no shop lifts?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Don, I did in fact put the tiniest dab of rtv on the main seal parting line, yup.
Also the thinnest posible coat of permatex # 2 on the block where the rear cap fits.
This thing better noit leak a drop!

On the subject of oil pans, could you look at this?
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=124393&page=3
I can't get my starter on!
 

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Well my motor will have to come back out. No doubt. Might as well replace that one piece gasket now and pull main seal and replace it , there is no room for doubt here. I will send you an email shortly.

As for the starter, I shimmed it and installed it with the motor out and pan on. There should be not problem. I am using the large GM starter. What seems to be the problem.?
 

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The "kickout" for a pass side dipstick is hitting the starter
OPPS!,, Mine did not have that. Well, got cutoff tool? What part # pan did you get. I got the CP60.
 
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