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While you are fixing the wheel cylinders, you might want to check the original front to rear line. If original, it may leak by the line/rear hose junction. The line loop (looks like a drain trap) must hold more water and road salt than the rest of the line and rusts faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You were spot on. But you missed the other 2 blown wheel cylinders for a total of 3 blown cylinders. I have no idea how I was driving this thing. After I spent this weekend searching down parts, I repaired everything and she's back on the road.

I appreciate everyone who helped!! More than I can convey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
While you are fixing the wheel cylinders, you might want to check the original front to rear line. If original, it may leak by the line/rear hose junction. The line loop (looks like a drain trap) must hold more water and road salt than the rest of the line and rusts faster.
I think I want to eventually change all of those line. And HOLY CRAP the way the front wheel cylinder bleeders are positioned (slanted at an angle against the car) it's almost impossible to bleed them. I actually ended up bending a 9mm wrench to contour it to the way I needed it to be. There must be a special tool but I didn't have it and just made my own.
 

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Now a tribute-1968(L30/M20) Z-28 Black stripes/white, 350, M22,12bolt. WIP since 8/1979
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Get a pre-bent line kit, they work great.
 

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Which bowl controls the front brakes and which controls the back brakes? This should help me narrow the problem down. 4 drum original brakes. Master cylinder looks replaced but with an OER part. I am getting spongy brakes. And one other question. Is the gasket for the MC lid supposed to be flat or should they basically have 2 (cones for lack of a better term) sticking down into the bowls?
Which bowl controls the front brakes and which controls the back brakes? This should help me narrow the problem down. 4 drum original brakes. Master cylinder looks replaced but with an OER part. I am getting spongy brakes. And one other question. Is the gasket for the MC lid supposed to be flat or should they basically have 2 (cones for lack of a better term) sticking down into the bowls?
If your loosing brake fluid , you definitely have a leak number 1, and 2, if nothing more than for much better braking and safety reasons, I’d put disc brakes on the front . As for the master cylinder, I believe the front reservoir is for the front brakes and a dual master cylinder has 2 cones inside that drop down like an accordion to fill the void from lack of brake fluid. Either way, you have a leak!
 

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I can convey with the front drum bleeder screws! I spent so much time chasing down why I could not get brake fluid past the distribution block under the master cylinder, that by the time I got that corrected and ready to bleed the 4 corners, I realized the front bleeders were darn near impossible to get to.

Can anyone verify if the distribution block under the master cylinder is supposed to have O rings where the brake lines attach to? I have had some say yes, but the two I have (got one from a member on this site) did not have them, and a NAPA guy I trust said the metal brake lines are flared, so no O rings are used. I had to tighten down the bolts to get a good seal,
 

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No O ring. Just a flared end on the brake line. You’ll need a brake bleeding wrench specifically bent for that fun project.
Time to self educate….follow the brake lines from the block to where they go. Knowledge is a good thing to have.
 
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