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Since I now have electric fans which could blow a fuse, I decided to seek out an alarm system that would set off a buzzer if the car overheated.

I found a company in Australia that makes exactly what I was looking for.

http://enginewatchdog.com/tm2.html

After testing several locations for the temperature sensor, I found that the front passenger side of the engine most closely matched my water temp. The display fit perfectly in the ash tray so that it's out of site, yet clearly audible if an overheat condition happens. I set the alarm to go off at 200, so I'll have plenty of time to pull over and save my engine.

I had a technical problem because by an installation mishap, and they were quick to fix the problem (that's rare to find these days).

Anyway, just thought I'd share.
 

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this is a really good idea! she has boiled over a couple times on the highway cause i didnt notice the gauge rising after throwing alt belts(thats another project)
how does this alarm work?can you set the temp that it goes off?
 

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this is a really good idea! she has boiled over a couple times on the highway cause i didnt notice the gauge rising after throwing alt belts(thats another project)
how does this alarm work?can you set the temp that it goes off?
Works exactly the same as the dash warning (idiot) light. Hook up a buzzer and have both on the same circuit.
Temp switches are available in several different switch temps..

Also you should be seeing your GEN light coming on before you overheat. If you have a 1 wire Alt, change it to a 3 so the GEN light still works..
A deep groove alt pulley might help you too.
 

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Std GM temp sensor is 235 deg.

A deep groove alt pulley might help you too
or put another way use the correct profile belt, not pick any old belt the correct diameter off the rack.
 

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I put a 12v warning light in a small bracket on the underside of my dash. Came off a wire that is hot when the ignition is on to the light. Then from the other side of the light I ran one wire to a temp sending unit and another to an oil pressure sending unit. I have the original guage cluster, but now I have a warning light as well!
 

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I switched from a standard alt pulley to a deep groove because I would throw belts at ~6500 -7000. Do the math and that's a Hell of a lot of rpm that the alt sees with a 7-3/4" crank pulley. Everything perfectly in-line, correct width belt, and no eccentric pulleys either.
I think the big advantage of the deep groove alt pulley is that it also slows the alt down and doesn't force the belt to turn on such a tight radius.
At that rpm and small diameter of the stock pulley, I bet the G forces are quite substantial. Also saves tightening the crap out of the belt in an effort to stop it getting thrown.
Slightly off topic. :)
 

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thanks guys ,i was liking the auditory alarm because i didnt notice my temp or volt gauges in time and needed something to get my attention. both times this happened i was being distracted by something...like pacing a vector twin turbo at triple digit speeds...and wasnt watching my gauges well enough
i believe the root of the problem lies in the brackets themselves they are kinda tweaked and cobbled together thinking about switching to long wp setup serpentine but champagne tastes and pondwater budget....
235 degrees seems perfect thanks for the tip
-and yes the vector twin kicked my doors in!
 

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thanks guys ,i was liking the auditory alarm because i didnt notice my temp or volt gauges in time and needed something to get my attention.
AS mentioned many times in posts....I run the idoit light from the head sensor and gauge from the inlet manifold...the oil has a T with 2 sensors...the idoit light and gauge sensors

just for the same reason you are finding out.....red light on the dash gets ones attention quick
 
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