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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hello i recently purchased a 1996 chevy camaro rs v6 3.8 for my wife. we have had the car going on two months now and yesterday i thought i would drive it, since i have not, since having it, because i have my own toys:D and perfer her driving it:D well anyways i notice that the gauge is reading pretty HIGH TEMPS and that the fans are not coming on unless i turn on the AC unit?... things that i have checked that could be causing the fans not to work are come on, when it gets to a certain temp!! i have checked all relays and they are all working, i have replaced the temp sensor which on this car is a (three prong) and after replacing it i noticed that the fans still do not come on, i have let the car get good and HOT and when i say that i have almost let it hit 260 and the fans still will not come on? i am sure the thermostat is good and havent seen anything boiling over in it yet, there are no signs of any leaks are coolant loss? i presently own several chevrolets of my own, but am fairly new to the camaro, like i said earlier got it for a good price and the old lady wanted it..lol.. anyways any help concerning this issue would be greatly appreciated... i know all the tricks... but really dont want to rig a switch up for the fans to come on would like to fix it the right way thanks
 

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are you sure the temp gauge is correct?

the gauges in the camaros arent known to be reliable at all.. for instance, my coolant gauge will read ~ 170F when the coolant temp is actually up around 212F

edit* also when it was overheating, did the "check gages" light come on?
 

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im pretty sure the temp gauge is reading correctly...no the check gauges light isnt

coming on?
Simple to check if your running hot, just pull up into a repair shop slip the mechanic $10 bucks and ask him to shoot his temp light on the T-stat, sending unit, heads, and radiator..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
as stated previously!!! my fans are not coming on when the engine gets to a certain

temp. what else could be causing this problem? that i have not checked?? both fans

work if i leave the ac on?
 

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Have you checked the fan relays? IIRC, the AC will override/bypass the fan relays in order to prevent overheating. Check the ECT, Tstat, coolant level, water pump (I dunno why either, just check it, it's part of the cooling system), and all applicable fuses and relays.

Lol, per my thread about the starting issue, start with the relays and fuses first. Cheaper and easier to deal with.
 

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how can you be so sure? no there are no gauges are lights of any kind coming on?
when your car overheats it should send a signal to the check gages light to try and warn you to look at your gauges and see what is wrong

your light may be burned out, which is why i asked if it comes on when your key is in the on position

if the needles on your gauge are wrong, you might think the car is overheating, but the cars computer sees nothing wrong, and will not set the check gages light

the only real way to tell is to either get the car scanned with an OBDII scanner and see what the real temp the temp. sending unit is saying what the car is
 

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Generally, if the engine is not puking, its not overheating - straight from GM Tech when I had mine in for the same problem.

So, it indicates hot, as Vic suggests, have a temp gun and shoot the thermostat housing and anything else for a temp reading.

It is good to read both fans are coming on with A/C selected.
The fans are controlled by the PCM via the coolant sensor and normally turn on at around 235°F +/-7°, the left fan for cooling, the right fan is considered the condensor fan. I would unplug the sensor connector to read if the connector has continuity to the PCM.

Since the PCM controls the fans, running an external circuit is accomplished by using a toggle switch and wiring to handle the current load, approx 20 amps and wire the switch across the relay load contacts or another ancillary relay wired across the present load contacts and a switch to turn on/energize the ancillary relay.

But I still wouldn't rule out using/borrowing an OBDII scanner to read the coolant sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
to those who have replied to my forum i appreciate it. yesterday i took the car to a gm dealership and spoke to a gm tech concerning my issues
that i have been having with the car. he explained to me that it could be
the computer not working correctly, so i asked him what would a new one
run me and he stated $205 unprogrammed...ouch:mad: i dont think i will be
getting one though. first i would like to respond back to a few questions that have been left on my forum, i agree most times if a car isnt puking are should i say boiling over, then it really isnt overheating i do understand
that much, because like i have stated the car isnt boiling over at all its just that the fans are not coming on when the engine gets to a certain temp. as to what has been stated to try......i havent had the time to put it on a OBDII scanner yet, and also havent found a tech in my home town who can check it fairly quickly for me, so yall are saying with the ac off and the car running i need to have the coolant sensor read? and the thermostat housing read? how hot should i let the car get before hooking are having someone hook a OBDII scanner to it? because as stated previously with the AC off the car will get up to over 245 fairly quickly and the guage in the dash will continue to climb and will hit almost 260 if i do not turn it off are turn the AC back on.
 

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You can have the engine at any temperature.
Shoot the thermo housing for temp reading, you might have to paint it black to get a better reading.
Coolant sensor output is read through the scanner and indicated as degrees - scanner and the gauge, gauge has its own sending unit, should read within 10°-15° to each other, I would think.

There could be a problem with the PCM, having either lost the ability to read the coolant sensor - this can be eliminated if the engine fast idles when cold, as in setting overnight, or the PCM has lost the outgoing control of the fan relay for cooling. One reason for the high price is the EPROM is soldered into place rather than plugged into a socket. Nothing wrong with the PROM itself, it has an army of protection, you're buying the controller, the part receiving and conditioning input signals along with the drivers to control external devices.

If the upper hose is really 245°F, you should be able to feel it being this hot as compared to 200°F.
 

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to those who have replied to my forum i appreciate it. yesterday i took the car to a gm dealership and spoke to a gm tech concerning my issues
that i have been having with the car. he explained to me that it could be
the computer not working correctly, so i asked him what would a new one
run me and he stated $205 unprogrammed...ouch:mad: i dont think i will be
getting one though. first i would like to respond back to a few questions that have been left on my forum, i agree most times if a car isnt puking are should i say boiling over, then it really isnt overheating i do understand
that much, because like i have stated the car isnt boiling over at all its just that the fans are not coming on when the engine gets to a certain temp. as to what has been stated to try......i havent had the time to put it on a OBDII scanner yet, and also havent found a tech in my home town who can check it fairly quickly for me, so yall are saying with the ac off and the car running i need to have the coolant sensor read? and the thermostat housing read? how hot should i let the car get before hooking are having someone hook a OBDII scanner to it? because as stated previously with the AC off the car will get up to over 245 fairly quickly and the guage in the dash will continue to climb and will hit almost 260 if i do not turn it off are turn the AC back on.
yeah, before getting a new computer you really need to get the thing scanned

it could be as simple as a bad thrmostat or coolant sensor

the scanner will get the reading from your cars computer and tell you exactly what the coolant temp is

i have not re-read this thread, but i do have a few questions:

1. is there coolant flow in the rad with the engine running? - might be a bad water pump

2. is it overheating when the car is driven? - the fans rarely come on when driving, they usually only come on when sitting in traffic

3. what type of coolant is in it, and are you loosing coolant? (i dont remember when gm started using dexcool)

4. have you properly blead the system making sure there are no air pockets?

i would get a thermostat and replace it then bleed the system fully first before you do anything
 

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Discussion Starter #16
as soon as i am able and have the time i will be getting it scanned. the only thing that has been replaced in it so far is the temp sensor and nothing more. as to the questions, i will answer them to the best of my ability. 1.yes there is coolant flow with the engine running. 2.it could be the water pump but i really dont think it is. 3.as i have stated several times the gauge reads a excessive HIGH TEMP while driving are sitting if the AC isnt left on. 4.gm recommends dexcool and that is what is in it. there doesnt seem to be any kind of coolant loss anywhere that i am aware of and i have looked from the top of the engine to the bottom of it.
5.on the 1996 camaro rs v6 3800 there is only one bleeder screw which is located on the thermostat housing, but yes the system has been bled.
 

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I had recently done a LIM replacement on the L36 Grand Prix. What I had seen was what could best be described as engine cheese on some of the coolant passages, blocking them. After running around a little bit, the car was running hot, but not overheating. After power flushing the system, the car now runs about 180-200*. The important difference here is that my higher-heat issue was not altered by running AC.

You might wanna look into flushing the cooling system and see where that takes you.
 
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