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Discussion Starter #1
I'm obviously doing something wrong but cannot figure it out. Ive read the e-brake adjustment instructions probably a dozen times trying to figure out what i'm missing... basically my parking brake lever keeps ending up in the exact same place when the calipers are tight on the rotor... basically center travel. I need this guy to tighten up at 1/4" max travel off the stop. Here's basically what i'm doing. Tighten adjust screw up until calipers are tight on the rotor(CCW), turn the screw the opp. direction(CW) by hand as far as it will go, which sends it inside of the caliper. Compress the brake pad back in which pushes the screw back out. Turn it again CW with a wrench which the screw will "skip". Turn the screw back CCW again to tighten the caliper up on the rotor, put my leverarm on... and it is still in the same position. Ive tried multiple variations of this method but everytime i close the caliper back down on the rotor, the hex of the nut(pos of the leverarm) is always in the same spot. I'm sure i'm doing something wrong. Anybody have any ideas?
thanks,
bl
 

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This has been a chronic problem with my Cadillac calipers. It seems the adjustment mechanism gets stuck easily and with new (or rebuilt) calipers it can require quite a bit of rotation to activate.

What I have done is to use a 9/16" wrench to turn the screw and snug the nut down on the wrench to prevent the screw from receding into the caliper. It's best to remove the cable bracket from the caliper (the cable can remain attached to the bracket) to allow the wrench to swing as far as possible. Other than that, it's pretty much as you described.

Remove the arm and cable bracket. Use the wrench to turn the screw to tighten the pads to the disc. Position the wrench so you will have maximum swing in the loosen direction and snug the nut on the wrench. Turn the wrench back and forth until you see it come back to a different position when the pads are fully snug on the disc. Remove the wrench and temporarily install the arm and see if it's within 1/4" of the stop. Repeat as necessary. This is what works for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I hadn't thought of trying to prevent the nut from receding into the caliper... I'm a little confused on what you mean back and forth..... Ive tightened the caliper onto the pads... see my problem has been that to get the nut back out so i can turn it, I have to compress my caliper piston in and it turn recreate my slop i'm trying to get rid of. I'll try it.
thanks
 

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By back and forth I mean to rotate (loosen/tighten) the screw. Doing this should activate the ratchet mechanism to adjust the arm (screw) position in relation to the clearance between the pads and disc. Using the nut that retains the arm on the outside of the wrench will keep the screw from receding into the caliper.

To illustrate; if the wrench points straight up when the pads are tight on the disc, after turning the wrench to loosen/tighten the screw the wrench should return to a position that is less than straight up. This can take a few tries (back and forth rotations). Once this happens, remove the wrench and try the arm back on. It it's within 1/4" of the stop, you are adjusted. If not put the wrench back on and do it again until it is adjusted.
 

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I am also having some brake difficulty and checked the pad to rotor gap on my cadillac calipers this weekend. I measured .025" Does this mean they are adjusted properly?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the 1/4 gap is not pad to rotor, actually your pad should be lightly rubbing the rotor, the 1/4 gap is from the parking brake leverarm to its stop when the brake is pressed tight.
 

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bl1work,
I was referring to 0.025" using a feeler gauge between pad and rotor. I thought I had read these caddy calipers adjust to 0.030" gap with the ratchet mechanism

Gary
 
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