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Discussion Starter #1
I havee made some upgrades and changes to my engine department since i bought the car. Electric fan, wilwood master cylinder, new fuel line setup and yesterday i added the PCV valve and hooked it up to the Holley 700 supercharger carb. When i bought the car, it had two breathers on both valve covers and no PCV. the PCV nipple behind the carb was pluged and this carb has a Boost referenced power valve right next to the manual choke which had a hose connected to it but was not hooked up to any vac source. After doing some homework i figured out that i had to hook up the PCV valve from the carb to the valve cover, and i have to hook up the power valve to the manafold according to Holley.
The question that i have is can hook up this power valve to any other source then the manafold because there is no other opening on there. There is only one vac hole which the gage is hooked up to. Is it possible to connect the power valve and the gage at the same place?
Here is a pic of what the Power valve looks like on the carb.


Also, is it beter to hook up the PCV on the passenger side valve cover?
i think it will look cleaner and out of the way since the hose is shorter and closer to the carb.
Here are some pics of the engine.









After hooking up the PCV valve the car idles a bit higher than before, about 650 to 700. Is this ok or waiste of gas? I think it was at 500 before.

Is there anything that needs to be fixed or a concern or might be a problem.
Any help and advice is much appreciated. Thank you
 

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I am assuming that you have a vac/boost gauge in the car..sourced under the blower.By all means..you can tee off and use this to referance your pv from below.I use a single source in the blower manifold for a va/boost gauge/external referanced dual power valves and a 2 bar map sensor for spark retard under boost.
As long as you have a baffle under the pcv valve in the lh rocker cover..i would not sweat it and yes connect it to the baseplate nipple.
as for your idle rpm increase after pcv valve install..this is a designed vacuum leak and will require tad bit more enrichment to compensate for the additional air being introduced to the blower without being metered by your carb.Hope this helps you.
 

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500 rpm is a very low idle. Not knowing which cam you have and what else is done to your motor, no one can tell you really. For the record, most running blowers & big cams idle in the neighborhood of 800-1,200rpm...
 

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you have to hook that port shown to a source BELOW the blower in order for the power valve to operate correctly... the pcv valve has nothing to do with the port for the PV and you can't tee it in either. I am confused... what did you connect where, any tee's, wheres gauge connected???
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, here is what i did last night. It idles a little higher now around 800 to 900.
Please let me know if this setup is bad or good.
I moved the PCV to the passenger side valve cover and connected to the Carb base(behind the carb) which was pluged before.
I added a vacume T and hooked it up to where the Boost gage was(the only vac on the manefold). One end goes to the vac gage and the other to the Power Valve on the carb next to the choke.
It seems to work great without any problems. Only Idles higher than before.
I just need to make sure it will not cause any problems later on.
Now just need to make sure if the air and fuel mixture is right.

Do you guys see any potential problems with the way i did it?
Here are some Pics.


 

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Discussion Starter #7
I hate wasting fuel. Its not cheep + I add $9 fuel booster everytime i feel up.
Please explain why this would cause that problem.
I really need to find someone who knows how to tune this setup.
Any recomendations? Im in Pomona area.
 

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Congrats sako...you now have a power valve that responds to engine load vs open all the time.This will increase mpg at cruise speed as long as the pv opening point is below cruise vacuum #,s.You really need to know the pv opening point and then compare that to the cruise vac.
When you connected the pcv valve to the base plate nipple..you leaned out the idle air/fuel ratio ,hence the rpm increase.
Not a problem..you will not detonate at idle speed with no load.
Not a big fan of picking up vacuum in an individual runner..I prefer full plenum ,but I see how the blower manifold is designed..work with what you have.
Imo..on the street with todays pump swill,reading plugs for proper a/f is all over the place.I highly recommend you invest a couple hundred bucks in a wide band o2 sensor.This offers real time a/f ratios that you can record and then post back with the info..so we can help you modify different ckts in the carb for safe wot and increase driveabilty and mpg.
Fwiw..I went with AEM.Great tuning tool.Easy install and a nice digital/sweep display.
 

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When you connected the pcv valve to the base plate nipple..you leaned out the idle air/fuel ratio ,hence the rpm increase.

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Exactly. Which rich condition was compounded by lack of MP signal to PV, got you the additional increase when you did that hose. You were wasting gas before, now you are burning it.
 

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I hate wasting fuel. Its not cheep + I add $9 fuel booster everytime i feel up.
Please explain why this would cause that problem.
I really need to find someone who knows how to tune this setup.
Any recomendations? Im in Pomona area.

Sako,
Sounds like you are getting all the details worked out. One thing I will help you save a few bucks on it the octane booster. You are wasting your hard earned money since the stuff doesn't work exactly as it's advertised. When they say it will increase octane by lets say 5 points. That means it will take 91 octane fuel and make it 91.5 octane NOT 96 octane.

Save your money and if you think you are close to detonation install a water/alcohol injection system.

I don't know all the details of your build, so hard to say if you even need to worry.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ShI%$#%%$%^^
I get one thing done and something else always happens.
My tuning and dyno got held up because my radiator started leaking fluid form where i connected the radiator fan( not related to any mechanical issues)
I used the straps that come with the electric fan connected directly to the radiator core. I guess it damaged the pipes from movement and vibration.
Fu&^%$##%$^%%*&&.
I bought this one from ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170317243985&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1134wt_1232
What do you guys think.
I will post some pics after i install it.
 
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