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Discussion Starter #1
I FINALLY have my short block back! As luck would have it, I took my block to my machinist, he bored it, clearanced it, plugged the oil galleys, line honed the mains, decked it to .005, baked it, and was about to put my assembly in, and it was cracked. The crack was about 3" long parallel with the deck about 3/4" down from the deck in the lifter valley. SOOOO I had to start all over. He was great about it though, he found a nearly identical block, re machined it to my specs and everything for just another $400. Lesson learned for sure. even with all that in the past the block looks GREAT! all of the clearances worked out and the parts fit well. It also look damn purrtey to boot!

I will post pics once I pick up a new halogen bulb for the grarage, its to dark and the photos don't do it justice.

Spec's"
010 four bolt block
.030 over bore
Block Decked to 9.005
Line Honed
Main studs
Stroker clearenced
3.75" Forged 4340 Lightweight Eagle Crank (1.8999 rod journals)
Eagle SIR H beam 6" rods
Mahle Flat top forged pistons
Molley rings
Cleavite bearings
All ARP fasteners

Now I need to pick heads and cam..... due to the unexpected costs plus some (ohhh craps on the house the cash is getting thin) I never thought it would be so hard to decide what to get!
 

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Your new shortblock sounds great. Congrats! :beers:


The machine shop should have cleaned and magnafluxed the other block before doing any machine work at all.
 

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The machine shop should have cleaned and magnafluxed the other block before doing any machine work at all.
Totally agreed.

Ouch! An additional $400.00 for something your machinist overlooked? Like a cracked block after all that work was performed?

Once you get the bottom end installed, check the piston to deck height on each cylinder both sides front to back. Just to verify your deck height.

What cam and heads are you looking at?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The machine shop should have cleaned and magnafluxed the other block before doing any machine work at all.
Well, that is my fault. I opted to skip the magnaflux after it was cleaned. We both inspected the block after it was bathed. It never had ANY indication of being cracked so we both figured it was ok. I really wonder if it finally gave out when he bolted down the torque pleate to hone it. Which in my eyes is good because it didnt happen AFTER it was all together and I put my heads on. any which way the 400 covered ALL of the machine work, AND the block, so I am happy. Crap happens.

As Far as heads, I am really pretty open, I think a set of aluminum heads with 200 cc runners or so with 64 cc chambers would be perfect, But I just need to see what I can find in my budget.
 

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Here's a good guy to deal with.... he's a member at www.chevelles.com

WWW.CNCBLOCKSNORTHEAST.COM
A Division of Hinkson Automotive R&D
We are WD on Dart, Wiseco, JE, CP, Crower, Manley, CARRILLO, Callies, King's Crankshaft. COMP CAMS, Diamond pistons ETC.

CARL HINKSON
207-892-7215
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
They are definitely on my short list.

What kind of power would they produce, and what would be a good cam for them?

According to the compression calculator I would be around 11.2 to 1.... which is a little high for the street.....

Hmmmm
 

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Make sure if your are using the Felpro peformance gasket your drill the required hole in the deck as your head gasket instructions will tell you what need to be done, If its a stock replacement gasket you should be fine.
 

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Ouch! An additional $400.00 for something your machinist overlooked? Like a cracked block after all that work was performed?

?
Just want to make sure you guys realize that is actually a pretty good deal ....... If my shop had cleaned and magnafluxed the block, it would have been right about $200 to find out that the original block was junk. .... So for another $400 .... the guy found him another block ( going for at least $200 around here) and cleaned it ( $120 for bake & shot blast) and magnafluxed it ..... at least a $400 value ...... sounds like the guy actually did him a pretty decent favor. The rest of the machine work would have to be paid for anyway.

Anyone can make a mistake, we are all human .... sounds like this machine shop did the right thing in taking care of the issue :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just want to make sure you guys realize that is actually a pretty good deal ....... If my shop had cleaned and magnafluxed the block, it would have been right about $200 to find out that the original block was junk. .... So for another $400 .... the guy found him another block ( going for at least $200 around here) and cleaned it ( $120 for bake & shot blast) and magnafluxed it ..... at least a $400 value ...... sounds like the guy actually did him a pretty decent favor. The rest of the machine work would have to be paid for anyway.

Anyone can make a mistake, we are all human .... sounds like this machine shop did the right thing in taking care of the issue :)
I TOTALLY agree. I think he was MORE than fair.
 

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Just want to make sure you guys realize that is actually a pretty good deal ....... If my shop had cleaned and magnafluxed the block, it would have been right about $200 to find out that the original block was junk. .... So for another $400 .... the guy found him another block ( going for at least $200 around here) and cleaned it ( $120 for bake & shot blast) and magnafluxed it ..... at least a $400 value ...... sounds like the guy actually did him a pretty decent favor. The rest of the machine work would have to be paid for anyway.

Anyone can make a mistake, we are all human .... sounds like this machine shop did the right thing in taking care of the issue :)

Very good to know Bill, Thanks for the input.:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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I bet it was a freeze crack.

I figure that it should have been found w/ a pressure check, imho. And I figure a "shake and bake", then bead blast may have hid it!

Glad everybody's satisfied.

He, He!!

You did keep the VIN off your block and check it against what you received, didn't you?

Know all about it...

pdq67
 

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They are definitely on my short list.

What kind of power would they produce, and what would be a good cam for them?

According to the compression calculator I would be around 11.2 to 1.... which is a little high for the street.....

Hmmmm
93 and alum heads you'll be fine. My brother-in-law has a 408 Ls6 with 11:5.1 and is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK I think I have Narrowed it down to the IK 200s, the Summit 200s and the Canfield 200s.

Any experience with any of these?

I also need to pick a cam to go with. I am undecied between solid and hydraulic. I am leaning solid.......
 
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