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Discussion Starter #1
I just retired and I want to take road trips around the northwest and take laps around Portland International Raceway. All just for fun. Nothing hardcore.

I’ve owned my car for 45 years. It will never be a show car. It has a 350 crate engine with roller cam, th350, Cadillac rear disc brakes, tall ball joints, SPC upper control arms, new power steering gear box, original 8.2-inch peg leg rear end, 2002 Z28 seats, and 15-inch aluminum wheels. I have a 8.5-inch Nova rear end sitting in the garage I once thought I would rebuild. I would only consider a LS swap if the small block dies.

Do the following parts make sense? Are they mismatched or a waste of money? Do you have other recommendations? Is something missing?
$400 Proforged Steering linkage
$1,700 AFX Tall Spindles with sealed C7 Corvette hub
$800 SPC Lower Control Arms
$1,000 Baer 13" Front Brakes
$5,100 SpeedTech Extreme 9-inch Full floater with C7 rear drive hub and factory parking brake
$700 Baer 11.63" Rear Brakes
$2,500 Ridetech Street Grip Kit
$4,100 CK Performance 200R4 Transmission and Torque Converter
$4,600 17-inch Forgeline ZX3
$600 Tires
$21,500 Total
 

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Wilwood 6 Piston Front and 4 Piston rear. $2k
GM 12 Bolt Posi $2.5k
Ridetech Street Grip Kit $2.5k
200R4 Kit from Bow Tie Overdrives $2.5k
$4,600 ? 17-inch Forgeline ZX3 (I believe there are very good wheel choices for 1/2 as much as the Forgelines)
$600 Tires

Could do a very good handling suspension, brakes, wheels and tires for $10k - $12k
 
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I would look at Kore3 Corvette based brakes. Do you really need a full floater for cruising? Better tire selection with 18” wheels. I would spend a little more than $600 on tires.

Don
 

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X2 on Kore3 on brake recommendation and would also suggest 18”wheels all around.
 
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I can't offer direct experience on the equipment you're planning on using, other than I'm happy with my 13" C5 front brakes and EBC rotors. Rotors are coated so no corrosion on the portions that are untouched by the brake pads so they'll look good for perpetuity. The C5 brakes aren't fancy and don't say Wilwood or Baer on the caliper, but they work great and are way, way cheaper and you've already got Cadillac rear discs. I've never understood why Baer brakes are so much more expensive than something equivalent by Wilwood. Do call Kore3 as suggested for some input on recommendations on brake components including master cylinder etc., Tobin is very knowledgeable. Unless you're getting forged wheels for the aesthetics, when was the last time you heard of a cast wheel failure? You can get some very nice cast wheels for substantially less than forged and spend more on tires. Even if you're going to track the car periodically, the tires will lose traction before the wheel fails, especially if you're running street tires. You could also use the CPP tall spindles and save another $1k or so. Sounds like a great project.
 

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The issue with cast wheels is they can be quite heavy. Heavy wheels add unsprung weight which increases ride harshness. Same issue with heavy steel spindles. Those CPP spindles are incredibly heavy! There is no free lunch with some of these things...

Don
 

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Agree with the weight diff with a 3 piece but there are good wheels out there that are just as nice as Forgelines for 1/2 the cost. Without tubs and a stock subframe wheel widths are limited. For tires I like Nitto Invos
 

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I'd love to have a $4-5,000 full floater rear end setup, but not before I had some good rear suspension to go with it. DSE 4 link, Speedtech or TCI torque arm...
If I was staying leaf springs I'd just get a quality 9" or 12 bolt setup.

I hate the GM Caddy rear disc/e-brake. can't wait to take them off this Fall and install my Wilwoods.
 

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I get that Forgelines are expensive, but I love mine. If you ever decide to mini tub, you can send the wheels out to be respaced since they're 3 piece. Don't buy wheels <18". Your brake options are very limited.
No need for the full float rear end, IMO. I'd go with a Moser 12 bolt or honestly rebuild that 8.5 with a trutrak and new axles and it will NEVER break.
Call Tobin at Kore3 for C5 brakes, they're a great balanced system for the size and weight of our cars.
 

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Some good suggestions, here's my .02 since in you're posting has some not inexpensive parts.
Speed tech AFX spindles.....$1299.00....Camaro AFX Spindles

Speedtech front & rear with torque arm.....$4670.00
Camaro GT Suspension

Brakes.....front Kore C5-C6, rears LS1.......$1500.00 or use what you have in the rear and change as you progress down the road. I run C6 in my fronts, rotors and pads are Corvette stuff and readily available.
KORE3 Industries LLC: On and Off-Road Performance Automotive Components

I'd use the 8.5", as mentioned TruTrac with new axles, Ford big bearings ends, new gears, parts & labor.....$1500.00 approx.
Moser Engineering Moser Store

Wheels.....18" x 8"-12" Rocket Racing, good backspacing. Rims & tires...$2500.00 approx.
Rocket Racing Wheels

Transmission, I'm not that well versed in auto's but what about the 4l80e, some guys use this one... $2-3000.00?
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/gm-4l80e-automatic-transmission-review/

Check with Matt from MCB, I've purchased from him and he's given me some good pricing or wait for when Summit has one of their 10% off sales, shop around.

Don't forget as you upgrade from these or any parts parts you have, there is always someone who wants to also change things up a bit so parts will sell, not everybody is in the same snack bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Great down to earth comments. I think my next move is to 1) order the street grip kit, 2) replace the steering linkage and 3) drive down to visit with Tobin. I don't know if he has a show room but I like to see and touch. I do better in person rather than over the phone. I'll also discuss with him rebuilding my 8.5-inch. Perhaps he will have a shop to recommend.

I'm paranoid about buying wheels before the rear end, front spindles and brakes are figured out.

Less expensive wheels would be good. I have found it difficult to find wheel weights on-line for comparison purposes. I'll revisit my thoughts on 17-inch with the strong recommendation to go with 18-inch due to tire availability.

Yes I am looking forward to ditching the caddy rear brakes. Bleeding them is a challenge.

If anyone has experience and a strong recommendation on Bowtie transmissions I'd like to hear. I visited their shop 5 years ago and was not super impressed. The 4l80e gearing is not as nice as the 200R4 but it would avoid the TV cable. I'm open to that debate if anyone wants to help me out.

Thanks
 

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I have used top of the line suspensions and 3 piece wheels on more than a few cars up to $30K on wheels, tires, brakes and suspension suspensions like Torque Arm, Quadralink, Speedtech front subs etc. They perform great but the way I use my cars way overkill. Street cruising with occasional spirited driving. I don't track my cars.

My last build although not a Camaro but a 66 Chevelle I rolled it back somewhat. Ridetech Streetgrip $2500, Wilwood 6 piston and 4 Piston manual brakes $2000 (I like manual brakes) US Mag Rambler Wheel $800 and Nitto Invo V12 Tires for $800. They are heavier but I notice no real difference. Add an AGR fast ratio box for $475.

The car was driver. The ride firm but not as harsh as the other combos. Great handling and excellent braking. I really enjoyed driving it. LS3/525 TKO600 Build.

I suggest think serious about how you're going to really use the car then build accordingly without overbuilding and perhaps overspending.

Car 0 (640x480).jpg
 
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I installed 2 Bowtie OD kits and was pleased both time.

Don't be afraid of the TV cable. Yes it's important to adjust it correctly but very easy to do.
 
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