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Discussion Starter #1
I have an oil filter adapter that has the by pass plugged. I am concerned about using this on my mild 396 street engine.
What are the opinions? Should I use it plugged or should I unplug it?
I understand the benefits of both ways but I am torn what is best for my application.
 

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I would use it as is because you're going to change filter way before the bypass valve comes into effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats my thinking too. I was wondering about cooler weather and how that may affect oil getting to my flat tappet cam and such.

I would use it as is because you're going to change filter way before the bypass valve comes into effect.
 

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Bypass valve only comes open if filter is full or spring breaks. Oil flow is not affected.
 

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Brian,
You will probably get 50 different comments on this subject and if you do a search you will find a few hundred more :) Here is my opinion ...

If you want to plug the bypass thats fine, it will insure that all of the oil goes into the filter. But .... if you do it, you absolutely have to use a good Racing style filter like Wix or Fram racing filters. You cannot use the $4 parts store ones. Also, you must have the patience to let the engine warm up thoroughly before putting your foot in it. The high cold oil pressure can make a filter come apart internally.

I have seen two cases of "stock" filters coming apart internally and ruining engines with blocked bypasses, so I am not in favor of the practice on a street engine, and really only on selected race engines.

That being said .... there are probably 2 bazillion Chevy engines with bypasses driving around not having any problems at all. My feeling is that if there is enough crap in your oil to cause damage, then something is broken anyway and the engine needs to come apart. Bypassing the filter isn't going to make a bit of difference.

Just my opinion,
 

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Bypass valve only comes open if filter is full or spring breaks. Oil flow is not affected.
Dissagree.
The bypass hangs wide open during every cold start, and if you use a mineral oil, it will hang open a lot more than that.
All disposable filters have much better spring loaded bypasses in them anyway. They generally bypass at a 10psi pressure differential. I would happily rely on those.

I junked a set of main bearings and scratched a crank thanks to a wide open factory bypass. The filter was new/unclogged and would not have bypassed the broken lifter circlip that was picked up if it had a chance to filter it.

Block the bypass and use a decent brand of filter. Buy a System 1 if you're serious.

If you want a stock "street car" oil system, don't forget to install the factory "idiot" lights so you can be alerted when the damage is done.:p

This engine sees 7000 EVERY time it's driven. Has a blocked bypass, synthetic oil and System 1.

 

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In the words of Smokey Yunick... "get rid of the bypass" ;)
 

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I should mention that there is also the option of a heavier bypass spring. I changed it on my Gen VI big block due to the external oil filter. I think it went from 7-10lbs to 17-20lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Uh oh, a lot of respected and knowledgeable people on here with varying opinions.

I need to decide which way will make me sleep better at night.
 

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Ask yourself this, What is the downside of blocking the bypass? There is really no downside except having to let the engine warm up. For me I want ALL the oil filtered.
Why even have a filter if you are only going to filter "some" of the oil. Also the stock bypass opens at way to low of a pressure, most high performance engine will keep the stock bypass open all the time due to the higher oil pressure.

In the end it's your decision we all know the downside of not blocking it now what are the up sides of not blocking it?
 

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Considering he's from New York, I would say waiting 15 minutes in the cooler months would be my problem with it.
I don't even think the heating up issue is a valid point to be honest, if you use a good oil filter like Wix, K&N etc., the burst rating is huge, far beyond what you will produce. The only way I see a problem is with a POS filter like a fram, even if you jumped in the thing in freezing weather, scraped the snow off (because I'm sure his 396 Camaro is parked outside year round ;) ) and slammed the gas to the floor and started it, I doubt a good filter would burst.
The bypass is there for somebody in an old beater with a fliter that has 100k on it so the oil keeps flowing, not a performance vehicle of any kind. I would rate it right there with drilling steam holes in a 400 cylinder head, only the bypass can be very detrimental, pumping dirty oil through the bearings.
 

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That's right. The factory bypass is a fuse for poorly maintained vehicles.
The problem is that this "fuse" works all the time and allows grit to run through your engine. My bearings look like new and have many high RPM miles on them. They have never looked so good until I finally fitted a 3/8npt plug into the adaptor and blocked the factory bypass.

Anyway, let the filter bypass if it wants to. Why on earth would you want to bypass the filter?
 

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Plug it or better yet buy a base that doesn't even have it. And use Wix racing filters that don't have an internal bypass. Treat it like you would any engine in the winter. Start it up and go easy a little before you lay into it.
 
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