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Has Anyone changed there points out for the new breakerless set up? And how is it working! Good....Bad....?What brand is the the best? Mallory,Pertronix,Crane,Accel.Just wanting the best bang for the buck!
 

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Same here about the Pertronix Ignitor. I've done several cars (4 and 8 cylinder) and it is one of the best upgrades. Recommended.
 

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I have a crane in mine w/msd-6a box and it works great. Also the crane has a rev- limitor.
 

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THANKS,GUYS all the info sounds good!Any info on which one would be the best for a mild 350ci.Or where the best price could be bought! summit or jegs ?.One of these days I've gotta get my pics of the car on here! This is the best website ever!ROCK ON!!!!! THANKS JARED
 

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How does one go about setting one of these up? Is there some type of gap or is it bolt in and go?

Tia :beers:
1.) It's breakerless, there is no gap.

2.) I've heard all about the ones above. What about this company? Why does no one use it; price aside.
http://www.breakerless.com/
 

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John,
Are you saying that it is "Almost sailor proof". :D

I need to set up my dizzy and will probably go in this direction. Can you use a regular GM black coil or do you need to specifically use the manufactures coil...like the Flame Thrower?
 

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You can use either coil. If you use the FlameThrower, (I do), you need to bypass the resistor wire that's currently routed to the stock coil from the fuse box. Use a 14g twisted wire which will send a full 12v to the FlameThrower coil. The resistor wire reduces current to the stock coil to prevent the points from frying. Too much current and the points will literrally weld together. Since we're removing the points, we can run full current.

No big deal with the rewring. On the interior side of the fuse box you'll see an auxilary port that says "IGN" (igintion). Simply run your 14g wire from there to the coil and then remove or cap the existing resistor wire. The resistor wire is the off-white colored cotton insulated wire to the coil.

By running the FlameThrower coil and full current to the engine's ignition, you have a much higher performing ignition system for minimal cost and time. And the best part is, it all still looks factory stock.

Good luck!
 

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Important to note the Flamethrower instructions are extremely vague about whether or not you should remove the resistor wire. I didn't change mine. While it may not be optimal, it still works.
 

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1.) It's breakerless, there is no gap.

2.) I've heard all about the ones above. What about this company? Why does no one use it; price aside.
http://www.breakerless.com/
I am running the Breakerless unit linked above and like it. I have spun the engine to 7,000 rpm a few times and never a problem. One thing I like is that it installs with only one wire to the coil, like the original GM distributor design, and no alterations to the car's wiring is required.

Now with that said, the unit with the rev limiter might be interesting, and might be considered, if I was in the market again today.
 

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This is from the Pertronix site, www.pertronix.com , regarding the need (or not) of the resistor wire:

"What type of coil can I use with the Ignitor™? How do I check my coils resistance? (12V negative ground only)

To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time.

Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts.

The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle.

Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down.

Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage.

Four and six cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.

Example
Voltage 12
Resistance 1.5
12 / 1.5 = 8
Total amperage 8"
 

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Here's the Ignitor instructions.

http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/ignitor12vneg.pdf

Note this Q&A for "low voltage" readings, a likely problem with the use of the resistor wire:

"Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?

A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor™ wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor™ wire to."
 

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Lastly, don't bypass the resistor wire unless you change to the FlameThrower coil. The stock coil isn't designed for prolonged use with full current; it's designed for use with the resistor wire.

The FlameThrower coil is designed for the full current.
 
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