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Last week on Horse Power TV they converted a points distributor to HEI.
It seemed like a very simple conversion.

I did not catch the conversion kit manufacturer and there is nothing on their web site.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Is converting your points distributor to HEI the most cost efective way?
 

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Not sure if this is the supplier that they used but it will accomplish what you are wanting to do..
http://www.pertronix.com/

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1969 Camaro SS 350-383ci., T-56, 12 bolt, Power Trax Locker, 3.73 gears, 4 wheel disc, Deluxe black houndstooth interior, rear window defogger, tilt steering, console w/AutoMeter gauge package, center mntd. clock, Tach.
 

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I asked a similar question a few months ago and several people on this forum recommended Dave's small body HEI's. I followed through and purchased a unit from him and I'm very pleased. Basically he took my breaker point distributor, rebuilt it, installed an ajustable vacuum advance and a stock HEI module. From my perspective, I like the idea of a stock HEI module for a street car. I can get a replacement at practically any autoparts store. It looks stock, and fits, unlike the large HEI units. Total price was just under $200.

Check out http://davessmallbodyheis.com if you're interested.

-dnult
 

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dnult's soution sounds good. I personally would not mess around with the Petronix. I blew out two of them at a cost of 70 dollars a piece. I also see nothing wrong with clearancing the firewall for a large body HEI distributor, unless you want to keep your car completely stock and it's a valuable model such as an SS. Proform sells a complet billet HEI with a high voltage coil for under 200.
 

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You will need to replace the resistence wire so that you have a full 12v. You will probably need to replace the coil also. I have the Daves Small Body unit and I love it. It looks good and works great.
 

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Hey dnult: Did you provide your cam & engine specs to Dave so that he set it up for your specific motor? Did you have to do anything more to it when you got it back? I understand they need to be curved to match the engine. I didn't know if he could do that without having your engine there.
I have been considering the pertronix II. I wonder if they're better than the ones you blew out.
 

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Just for a little flavour...

I used the magnetic trigger conversion parts from a Hays stinger ignition in my points style conversion. I did not buy the Hays electronic box as the Crane unit does not need any. Just installed the star wheel and the magnetic pickup/breaker plate assy. I hooked it up to a Crane HI-6 Capacitive discharge multispark unit with integral adjustable rev limiter, mounted inside under the dash for that close to stock look. I have that hooked up to the factory coil.

It would work the same with any trigger including points, unilite, Pertronics, or HEI. Great box. It works for me.

-Mark.
 

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I also had a distributor done by Dave. For me spending the extra money for the Pertronix was pointless:p I plan to put it in when I get around to getting the tripower on. The project is spiraling out of control as I'm planning to pull out the motor, and put the heads on too, plus re-detail the engine compartment.

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'69 RS SS 396 375hp L78 Convertible, M22, 3.31 posi, deluxe interior, gauges, rosewood wheel, AM-FM, fold down seat, tilt wheel, Torque Thrust Wheels, console mounted 8 track player, chambered exhaust, locking gas cap
COMING SOON Corvette tripower, small body HEI, and maybe "842" aluminum heads
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Winch:
Hey dnult: Did you provide your cam & engine specs to Dave so that he set it up for your specific motor? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Yes, I did give him the specs. As for curving the distributor, you'd have to ask him. My take is that he dialed it in 'close' but I have to do the final adjustment. The distributor has a crane mechancial advance setup and comes with extra springs. I also opted for the crane adjustable vacuum advance. Dave installed a vacuum advance limiter.

When I dropped it in, I set the base timing. I took it out for a drive and listened for pinging. Then tweaked the vacuum advance and limiter until I got peak performance.

Curving a distributor is a great way to go, but the bottom line is that you want the maximum advance your engine can tolorate without pinging or detonation. As a result, the final tune is really engine specific.

As I mentioned before, the best things about Dave's is that it takes stock components, looks stock, and performs very well for a street vehicle. If I were drag racing and running high octane fuels, I might want to consider an CD system, but even then, Dave's conversion will work. Just add the CD box and remove the HEI module. I can send pictures if you like. Not sure how I can post them without a web site. If anyone knows how, email me.

-dnult
 
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