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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the final stages of a frame up restor. I have finished all the wiring but now when i turn the key to the run position the starter kicks in. anyone know what i might have done. I used wire harness repro from a good suplier that several pro restorers told me to go to. All wiring replaced and the new harnesses use new fuse box but use original conectors otherwise.
I checked the ingition switch and it is all correct (and brand new).
car is a 68 327 with ac and auto transmission.
 

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Does it drop out with the key turned to start? If so it's possible the start wire is swapped with the run power wire on the ignition switch. You can turn the radio on to see if it shuts off when you turn the key to run. Also possible if it still turns the starter with the key turned all the way to start is the switch is out of adjustment pushing the contact set too far with the key in run.
 

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Two good suggestions.
On the solenoid, purple wire to S terminal, yellow wire to R terminal.
 

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Good point. Yellow wire will backfeed from the coil supply.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks for the suggestions.
Checked the ignition switch and it tests ok, checked the wire harnes/connector to make sure purple wire in right place on the connector to the switch. Also checked the wires on the starter, both are hot when the ignition switch is turned to run.
Still can't find what is wrong.
Any other suggestions?
 

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How did you test the switch to determine it's ok? I'm more familiar with 69s, but it sounds like if the purple wire is hot in "run" then it's a faulty switch. The yellow wire just gets its power from the purple wire.

The purple wire goes to the "S" terminal on the solenoid - closet to the engine block. Yellow goes to "R" on the solenoid.

Another thought would be the NSS, if you happen to be feeding that from something other than the purple/white wire.
 

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Yeah I would discount the switch if it is original, the key and other debris may have tacked a contact somewhere it should not. If you bypass the physical switch - AKA "Hot Wire" the wires can you start the vehicle?
 

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I just ran into this. Unless your using points, remove the yellow wire from the starter. On post #6 did you have both wires disconnected when you tested in the run position? The yellow will be hot but the purple should only go hot when in the start position.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Tested switch by pulling it out and testing each pole with key in each position. Plus it new.
Pulled both wires off of starter and turned key to run then then tested each wire to ground (frame) with meter. Both showed full 12 volts.
Checked that purple striped wire is in right position on switch connector and it is.
Engine is original, rebuilt still using points so I think I need the yellow.
 

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Pulled both wires off of starter and turned key to run then then tested each wire to ground (frame) with meter. Both showed full 12 volts.
Checked that purple striped wire is in right position on switch connector and it is.
Wrong, only one wire, yellow wire, should have voltage on it in the IGN position.
Purple wire should only have voltage in the START position, no other position.

Having new items to install does not mean it is good/correct.
If you have old harness, compare the new to the old, wire for wire.
New ign switch could be faulty internally, again only power/continuity between the input (red wire) and START (purple wire) in START position.

Do the wires going from the interior side of the firewall connector match the engine side of the firewall conector?
 

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If you have your old ingnition switch, I would start by putting it back in and adjusting, see what you get. Next I would put the transmission in low and see if you still get power to the purple in the run position (you shouldn't). You can also do a quick test to see if you have continuity between the yellow and purple wire with it disconnected from the ignition switch and the starter as a next step. All this will help narrow down where the wiring problem is if its not the switch.
 
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