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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, ive got a weird issue with my 00' camaro 3.8 v6.
Ok so, i onow my ac clutch is rattling a little, maybe its bad, or needs to be pulled back a little....im only mentioning it because it might help....anyway. So when i have my a/c on and im driving, if i try to give it gas...enough to get up to speed, but not enough to shift gears(its auto) it loses power and the fan stop blowing through the vent, however i can feel it sometimes around my legs. As far as the loss of power, once i feel this "slip" i can give it gas real hard trying to shift gears, and itll just keep going as if i had never gave it gas, it chugs along and itll finally "catch its self" again and pick speed back up. I figure ive got a vac. leak somewhere because of the lack of flowing air. But what could be causing my "slip"feeling. Ive been questioning my belt and/or tensioner. Im a little stumped, any help or suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance everyone
 

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It reads like a large vacuum leak.
Since you say 'blows onto the feet at deeper throttle' would say the venting, and should also have defrost, by default when a loss of vacuum occurs.

So you might look in the engine compartment for a broken/frayed hose from the intake to anywhere.

As the engine 'catches up.' it is running in a leaner air/fuel ratio because of the vacuum leak. More rpm's cover up the problem.
 

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Poor Catalytic flow will also give odd throttle response performance ;)
 

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Thanks for the responses guys i appreciate it, sorry to reply late but i pulled a few closing and then opening shifts at work. Ill look over the intake hose, and all the other hoses for a crack or rip of any kind. But it only seems to happen when the a/c is running. If the a/c is on and i give it WOT it of course bypasses the a/c clutch and runs fine. My a/c is cold and seems to work ok. But is there a good chance its going bad even when it runs fine at lower rpm. Ive alspo noticed a slight surge a/c on or off lately
 

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Hi guys, its been a while since ive checked in but ive been figuering things out with my car...what an ordeal its been too. I told a few guys at work about my issues and i also started to notice a rattling from my cat, and since it was suggested, i figuered itd be a good place to start. A friend at work(he lives a block away so its convient) offered to pull it out and we could check it out. Well, we pulled it and for some reason there were like a few small rocks in there, but that was all. No other issues. But...when it was time to put the cat back in....turns out, my buddy cant weld for ****. He sure talked like he could...so now ill be paying an exhaust shop $100 to take it all apart and redo it, and thats fine as long as its done right......sorry to rant....just thought id get that out there.
I did realise i have a vac leak, more importantly though, i found it(if its just 1) the line coming off the check valve on top, is supposed to run all the way down to the vac resivoir, and it has 2 ports on it, 1 side has a cap, as i believe it should. But the vac line thats supposed to connect to it is not there. I dont see it dangling around anywhere, i suppose ill just run a new one if i have to, i guess ill see if thatll fix everything. Also should the low side on the ac line be at like 35-40 psi? Just curious guys, thanks, and sorry to rant
 

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The 'rocks' inside the cat is the honeycomb, platinum, used for exhaust conversion and the cage collapsed, or rusted apart.

Good reading on the A/C suction side. Might be a couple pounds too high, but I would leave it. More heat to exchange from the inside, the higher the pressure.

The nipples on the canister should have something on them, even as you say a cap on one, vacuum supply hose on the other, and the last one goes somewhere...
 

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My friends couldn't weld for $hit either :D
That's why I learned how to :thumbsup:

Make sure condenser isn't blocked by any debris and you have a fan blowing on/through it while taking readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys!
Everett, those "rocks" were just rolling around in the cat, if it was loose i just shook them out...maybe like 3 rocks total. Should that cat still be fine then? The mesh screens look fine, no build up or anything. The guys at the exhaust shop are going to take it all apart and buff off the excess welding and put it all back togather the correct way.
I was reading other posts around the web and 35 psi looked to be the closest reading for the ac comp. But if i remember right it was on a 3rd gen, i didnt find much on the 4th gen. But after relieving the system of a few psi, it seems to be alot cooler. The right pressures are definately the key. When i had previously filled it, i was going off an autozone gauge that comes with the r134a, i pointed the arrow to the almost ambient temp outside...it was 104F that would have sent the pressure into the red. I know not to go that far though haha.

Vintage, id weld but my wife wont let me buy a welder yet haha, ive had more pratice with an arc welder. But im sure i could do ok with a wire welder. Seriously...this weld job is awful though, if im not breaking any rules, ill take a pic of it and post it haha! But $100 for it to be done correctly...that sounds like a bargain to me haha.
And that condenser....i actually cleaned it out a few days ago. I pulled a 1ft x 8in strip of window tint out from in front of it, as well as a clear plastic cookie like wrapper and some grass stickers and such haha, couldnt believe i pulled window tint out of there, that was crazy.
Ill have my exhaust welded a few days after the 4th of july...i plan on going to colorado on a short vacation, and ill pick up some vac tube from work tonight for my vac resivor. Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys....and sorry to run on again, i think i have a habbit of that
 

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Cat will be fine. Old trick was jamming a crowbar up the tube to knock out the internals, then reinstall the cat.
A/C pressure will be fine. When you have time, buy an A/C manifold, or borrow one, and look at the suction gauge.
The real measurement will be the pressure/evaporator temp scale of the gas being used.
Regardless of brand of A/C system, pressure/evaporator temp is where its at.

Have a safe trip/vacation.
 

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Haha i was going to either hollow out my old cat or put a high flow on it. But i didnt want it throwing codes all the time for my o2 sensor. Of course im getting o2 codes now because of all the holes in my exhaust now. It keeps throwing bank 1 sensor 2 as expected, but only twice so far. Ive just been clearing it out every time. Ill just keep clearing it till i get back from vacation. Thankfully were taking my wifes solara and itll do way better on gas haha. Thanks again guys
 

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Since the Camaro is more modern than '70'sand has two O2 sensors, most aftermarket cats won't keep working.
Exhaust shop said they work for a short time, but are warrantied and get replaced.
Since pre- & post cat sensor, hollowing them out won't work either.
Second sensor monitors cat performance.

However, you might make it work by removing the after-cat sensor and install an adapter called 'spark plug non-fouler'. Bore it out providing clearance for the O2 sensor, then reinstall the sensor. Did this to a '98 Honda DX and worked great, no more CEL/MIL.
 

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There is a simple 'Boy-Racer' trick to 'checking' and slowing the hysterisis (response signal transition that ECM monitors) of the Secondary O-2 sensor and keep the MIL light setting under control ;)
It's as simple as going to your neighborhood auto parts emporium and getting a package of Dorman/HELP #42009 'Spark Plug Non-Foulers' (18mm) :yes:
Remove previously noted after-cat sensor, install 'Non-Fouler', reinstall sensor and VIOLA ... a very slow responding sensor that doesn't trip the ECM :thumbsup:
Works because the sensor doesn't actually 'sense' amount of fuel, it 'senses' the transistion of the signal ...

NOTE: Huge DISCLAIMER to follow - do not do this mod to get around any smoggy-$hit rules/laws/checks :noway:
Only do this to 'check' if this is your problem ... Meaning maybe you need an new sensor, or cat or ??? - how long you decide to do this 'check' is up to your ...
And as an added note to the 'Rice' guys, the CHP is well aware of this 'check' ( wonder who told them :rolleyes:) and knows to look for this spacer at roadside compliance checks as part of the SOP for Boy-Racer inspections :p

End of sensor check post :D

Oh, and 'hollowing-out' of a Cat. (again, just to check to see if the Cat. flow is effecting vehicle response/performance ...) is best done with a 3/8" aluminum rod, bent up @1" on end, and mounted in a good 1/2" drill.
A rod of @4~5 feet allows access from both ends of most cat. pipe assemblies and very effectively 'routs' and cleans out bad internals.
NOTE: If doing this alone, always securely fasten the cat/pipe assembly in a vise of to something solid! You don't want a heavy cat system spinning around on the end of a 3/8" rod and drill :eek:
Remember to keep and recycle the removed comb and particles - they are valuable and a hazardous material if not properly disposed of.
Be sure to replace the Cat. ASAP if this test indicates that was your problem ...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanls for the tips guys haha but my cat should be just fine, the issue with it is all the leaking spots around the cat, and theyre leaking fumes out before the o2, i cant remember the exact code, but its throwing 02 b1s2 low voltage. And i believe the more emission going through there the higher the voltage. And it makes since because alot of the exhaust has been spewing out before the o2 sensor. Ill just be happy to get it all fixed up soon.
Haha in other news...i pulled in my driveway after i got home from work and heard a hissing....i was scared to pop the hood because i was in denial...i didnt want to believe it....but my radiator just cracked down the side...damn it. Ive got another question pertaining to it...but ill start a new thread for it, you gents are more than welcome to follow :) thankfully though the radiator is about $130 and ill get 20% off when i get it. Might as well flush everything while im at it
 
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