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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
and I cant' figure out why. I had the pump/reservoir out and cleaned them up. Pump seemed to work fine on the bench. I replaced the gaskets and then re-installed. But yesterday, when I tried it out for the first time, there was no assist on steering. Easiest thing I guess is to replace the pump and see what happens. But before I invest in a new one I thought I would see if there is something obvious I am missing, or something that might not be related to the pump at all. Please help!
Thanks,
Mike
 

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Turn all the way to the right, add fluid then turn all the way to the left and add more fluid. You may need to do this a few times to get all the air out of the system.

Kev
 

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I usually suspend the front end on jack stands and do as SixtyAte said. Then once it stops taking fluid I start it up and turn the wheels lock to lock a couple times. Then you'll have to shut it off and wait for the bubbles to subside. It will probably take one or two more times to top it off until it will run without bubbles and no groaning.
 

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I had that problem once, pump worked on the bench, or I think it did anyhow, but didn't work in the car. The second time I pulled it out and took it apart I noticed a small valve, a check valve I think, that was stuck from years of sitting around. After I freed up the valve it worked fine. I dont know if you have already cleaned the valve but I thought I would bring it up just in case. If you need a picture of the valve just let me know, I have a pump sitting around somewhere. :beers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the replies! I did put fluid in it. I will try that to get the air out of the lines/add more fluid. Most likely that is my problem. 1511tim I had the pump apart but I don't remember the valve you are talking about...and unfortunately I didn't take pictures. My pump sat around for a long time too. That might be the issue. Can you send a picture.....if you can easily get one?
Thanks again,
mike
 

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I will dig that pump out tomorrow, I know where it is and the reservoir is already off, so it wont be a problem getting a picture of that valve. If I remember right, its a small piston in a cylinder held in by a snap ring, but I dont remember for sure so I will get a picture, like they say, a picture is worth a thousand words! Oh, I think it is the bypass valve. That is why the pump functioned, but didnt actually work. A small amount of rust had it froze up.
 

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This is the valve that they are talking about.

You should be able to remove the pressure hose, then unscrew the discharge fitting from the back of the pump. You should be able to reach inside the pump bore and depress the valve against a spring that is behind the valve. You should be able to feel the valve smoothly slide in and out against the spring. You can extract the valve by inserting a pencil type magnet into the pump and withdrawing the valve. Check to see if it has any burrs or heavy varnish deposits that might make it stick. (BE VERY CAREFULL, if you need to place the valve in a vise for instance, make sure that you use wooden or plastic jaw inserts so that you don't gouge the OD of the valve.)

Lastly, you really need to try and eliminate as much air as possible from your power steering system BEFORE starting your engine. When air bubbles get pushed through a spinning power steering pump, the air and oil get whipped to a froth and it takes considerable time for the air to work its way out of the fluid. By jacking the front wheels off the ground and rotating the steering wheel full lock to lock (with the engine off), the steering gear acts as a pump and smoothly works the power steering fluid through the system. Air bubbles reaching the pump reservoir can easily rise to the fluid surface and return to atmosphere. Turning the steering wheel and replenishing fluid as needed as described will get you smoothly on the road a lot sooner.

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks very much for all the info! I think i am going to try and get the air out first to see if that solves the problem. That way I don't have to dump the fluid to remove the valve. If that doesn't work, then I'll pull the pump and check the valve. That gets a little messy so hopefully I won't have to.
Thansk again,
Mike
 

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I'd avoid using a magnet on the valve if you can. The valve will get magnatized and attract tiny metal particals that can gawl up the valve and make it stick. Lots of good info here, so hopefully it will help get you going soon.
 

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What a great web site! No one said to make sure that you remembered to re-install the drive belt!:D
 

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Hey, the o ring #23 needs to go in the correct groove in fitting#24. I believe it goes in the groove closest to the pressure hose. If it's in the wrong groove... no assist (ask me how I know!)
Also the valve #6 has a filter in it, you can see it, it's in the middle towards the front of the pump, facing the spring, it can become restricted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thought I would follow up on this matter. I finally ended up getting a replacement pump. Part of the issue was whether it was okay to use a SB pump on a BB. I know recent posts have talked about whether there is in fact a difference. Only thing I can see is that the fitting for the pressure side hose is different (at least on the BB pump I just got) and that fitting (No. 24 on the diagram above) is not interchangeble SB to BB. Everything else lined up, pulley/bracket-wise though. Couple things I did figure out. After installing the pump and filling the reservoir with fluid, I jacked up the front end and cut the wheel both ways, all the way, as suggested. Didn't work in my case. I got some air out by doing that, but it wasn't until I started her up and did basically the same thing, that it worked. Also, When you are doing this with the engine on, it is best to slightly underfill the reservoir. At one point I had a mini geyser out of the vent hole on the top of the cap. And this was with the reservoir still at the "fill" line. Once air was out of hte system, no more shooting fluid.
Thanks again for all the help!
Mike
 
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