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Remove pipe, clean male threads on pipe with brake clean or lacquer thinner. To clean the female threads in the PS box I spray brake clean onto a rag and twist inside a few times until clean, then apply white liquid teflon thread sealer to the male pipe threads and assemble. NO NOT use teflon tape. Worked on mine.
 

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Since it's a flare fitting, it sounds like the pipe was skewed when the nut was tightened or the flare was damaged or not properly formed. As suggested above, remove and clean. Inspect the condition of the flared pipe end, if damaged it may always leak and I'd probably replace it. Possibly is was cross-theaded at one time or another and the nut doesn't fit correctly. Try pushing the flared end of the pipe into the female fitting on the steering box keeping it firmly and evenly seated around its circumference while screwing down the jam nut as opposed to using the nut to pull the flared end of the pipe into the steering box fitting. I'd try this first to see it leaks. A correct fit will not reqire any thread sealer. If yours still leaks, you could try the sealer as COPO suggests, but this may be a bandaid solution that can save you some money.
 

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I heard that there was an o-ring seated inside. Does that need to be replaced??
The original connections were flare joints, later models had the O-ring. The expers here could tell you what year steering box had the O-ring fitting, I frankly don't remember. Pull yours apart and check it out, I bet it's a simple flare. I treat connecton of the steering box flare fittings like those on the brake MC or any flare fittings for that matter. Keep the flared pipe fitting loose, but firmly and evely pressed into the female connector so it doesn't get crooked and gently screw in the nut. Whether the MC or the steering box, every time I've tried to short cut it using the nut to pull the pipe down into the fitting they seem to get a bit crooked and leak or you take the chance of cross-threading the nut. Let us know how you resolve this leak problem.
 
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