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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know if there are any issues installing a GM power window
setup from a hardtop to vert?

I heard maybe GM the rear 1/4 mech is an issue but nu-relics fits both

Thanks in advance!
 

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Yeah as stated the only difference is that the Vert power windows piggybacked off the existing power top breaker and power feed. Edit for search and clarification: once at the breaker a second power feed wire enters the bulkhead to feed the windows, it does not use the same feed wire as the power top.

Coupes used the same part numbers and both fed power to the kick panel power relay then to the drivers window switch controls.

Easy to install the nu-relics as they use the original factory mounting locations, harnesses and switches and use ac/delco motors. So perfect for new install or refreshing old factory units that have failed. The only common issue is warped door panels but they have a simple instruction sheet showing you how to make a jig from square tub bar stock and a bolt and two blocks of wood. Tighten the bolt and the bar pulls the door into alignment so the motor doesn't hit the channel or glass.

I hear electric life motors are also easy to mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
oh great...good thing I have a power top


anyone have a link or schematic on how to hook this up?
 

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There was a schematic posted a while back I think in electrical.

Did you get all the harnesses? besides the power feed, there are wires to the relay (behind the drivers side kick panel) and back out to all windows. You need to drill large holes in the doors and hinge support for the wiring boots. Getting a good ground in the door is the tough part. The factory installed the doors before paint, so there was a good ground at the hinges. Now we paint both the hinge and support with many coats of paint and you lose the ground.

I think when I do mine, I will add a insulated ground wire within the boot and ground the door motor under the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah as stated the only difference is that the Vert power windows piggybacked off the existing power top breaker and power feed. Coupes used the same part numbers and both fed power to the kick panel power relay then to the drivers window switch controls.

Easy to install the nu-relics as they use the original factory mounting locations, harnesses and switches and use ac/delco motors. So perfect for new install or refreshing old factory units that have failed. The only common issue is warped door panels but they have a simple instruction sheet showing you how to make a jig from square tub bar stock and a bolt and two blocks of wood. Tighten the bolt and the bar pulls the door into alignment so the motor doesn't hit the channel or glass.

I hear electric life motors are also easy to mount.

I've got a set of GM out of a 67 hardtop firebird. But if it gets difficult I will get a nurelics set.
So the Power top relay is the same? Do I need to get a PW relay if I am running off the power top?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There was a schematic posted a while back I think in electrical.

Did you get all the harnesses? besides the power feed, there are wires to the relay (behind the drivers side kick panel) and back out to all windows. You need to drill large holes in the doors and hinge support for the wiring boots. Getting a good ground in the door is the tough part. The factory installed the doors before paint, so there was a good ground at the hinges. Now we paint both the hinge and support with many coats of paint and you lose the ground.

I think when I do mine, I will add a insulated ground wire within the boot and ground the door motor under the dash.
No It is cut off at the drivers door hole, don't have anything past the drivers door
I have all the other doors harness.

I am not even sure where to drill the holes!

Any pics or diagrams would be GREATLY appreciated
 

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Ah, cut off the door is typical. If they did not grab the harness and motor from the doors, you may be missing some parts :)

Ok, the power top thing on the firewall is a 30amp circuit breaker, not a relay. it cuts power is the top is jammed.

There is a relay mounted behind driver kickpanel that power feed goes to. The drivers side door leg harness is the most complicated due to the 4 position switch. Motors in all doors and qtrs of course. So besides the door harness, there with be one that goes under the dash that splits to go to pass door and under the carpet guards to the pass qtr. The drivers qtr goes from the relay location to the drivers qtr. There may be a couple intermediate connectors, cant remember.

The hings and doors have a small dimple midway, that is where you drill. One or the other is bigger.

The Fisher body manual has a pretty good chapter on power windows :)

Random posts on power windows

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80379

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=289274

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=206619

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192502

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86968

And look at the AAW wiring harnesses and compare them to what you have.

http://www.rickscamaros.com/electri...trical_wiring-harnesses.html&orgrdrctq=wiring


More pics here

http://www.rickscamaros.com/catalog...Autowire-Factory-Fit&q=power+window&x=17&y=18
 

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Ah, cut off the door is typical. If they did not grab the harness and motor from the doors, you may be missing some parts :)

Ok, the power top thing on the firewall is a 30amp circuit breaker, not a relay. it cuts power is the top is jammed.

There is a relay mounted behind driver kickpanel that power feed goes to. The drivers side door leg harness is the most complicated due to the 4 position switch. Motors in all doors and qtrs of course. So besides the door harness, there with be one that goes under the dash that splits to go to pass door and under the carpet guards to the pass qtr. The drivers qtr goes from the relay location to the drivers qtr. There may be a couple intermediate connectors, cant remember.

The hings and doors have a small dimple midway, that is where you drill. One or the other is bigger.

The Fisher body manual has a pretty good chapter on power windows :)

Random posts on power windows

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80379

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=289274

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=206619

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=192502

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=86968

And look at the AAW wiring harnesses and compare them to what you have.


OH man I can't say thanks enough for those links!!!
I am missing the entire under dash harness left front... gotta buy that now :(
 

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I've got a set of GM out of a 67 hardtop firebird. But if it gets difficult I will get a nurelics set.
So the Power top relay is the same? Do I need to get a PW relay if I am running off the power top?
Yes and no. If you are using the original GM Fisher Body harnesses it is strongly recommended that you run the relay which will use the full amp draw of the power top line you already have. If you use the Nu-Relics harness which is identical to the GM harnesses except it includes an inline 30 amp blade fuse. I have done both used the nu-relics with fuse into the original relay just as a back up.


No It is cut off at the drivers door hole, don't have anything past the drivers door
I have all the other doors harness.

I am not even sure where to drill the holes!

Any pics or diagrams would be GREATLY appreciated
The original doors have a dimple on the door and on the outer side of the door jam. The original GM Fisher power windows used a set of rubber wire chases that held the wires. Aftermarket are a bit bigger. Best bet is to drill a pilot hole then use a step bit to widen it to the diameter of the version you are using. I'll find the picture that comes with the Nu-Relics that shows the dimples.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes and no. If you are using the original GM Fisher Body harnesses it is strongly recommended that you run the relay which will use the full amp draw of the power top line you already have. If you use the Nu-Relics harness which is identical to the GM harnesses except it includes an inline 30 amp blade fuse. I have done both used the nu-relics with fuse into the original relay just as a back up.




The original doors have a dimple on the door and on the outer side of the door jam. The original GM Fisher power windows used a set of rubber wire chases that held the wires. Aftermarket are a bit bigger. Best bet is to drill a pilot hole then use a step bit to widen it to the diameter of the version you are using. I'll find the picture that comes with the Nu-Relics that shows the dimples.
Got links from KevinW showing all that...

thanks for all the help gents!!
 

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Keep us posted on your progress. The aftermarket harnesses are hit or miss on coming with grommets for the rear quarters. In a pinch you can use rubber hose slit down one side then slide the opening over and around the hole.
 

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I am doing the same install on my '69 'vert. PW set up came from a '69 coupe, all seems to be going well but I have not got the window guides or glass in yet. With good wire and connectors you can make missing harnesses for little cost-- nothing shows unless somebody sticks their head upside-down under your dash.
 

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Has anyone installed the Nu-Relics power windows. Any feed back would be great , as I found a set of originals for about $1000 with wiring and switches. or about $700 with no wiring or switches.
Not trying to steal the post
 
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