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Discussion Starter #1
I put a Right Stuff disc brake conversion on the 4 wheels of my 67. Was getting fluid up to the front brakes after doing a bench bleed and hooking it up and pedal bleed. Left the car for a couple of months and found the fluid leaked out of the hose/caliper connection due a bad washer. Looked in the M/C and the front tank was empty.

My question is: instead of pulling the M/C off to do another bench bleed can I do a pressure bleed with my Motive brake bleeder?
 

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I would pressure bleed. You should be ok
 

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The Motive works well for bleeding as you know, but I've not tried it as a substitute for bench bleeding. I'm with John, I think it will work. If not, I just installed a new MC and used the Cardone MC bleeder syringe. It's the only way to go - couple of syringe pumps into the MC ports and you're done, easiest method I've ever used. You could try one of those if your Motive doesn't work to avoid pulling the MC.
 

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Bench bleeding moves the pistons and gets trapped air pressure bleeding probably wouldn't. Bench bleed first then once the master is on the car put the pressure bleeding to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bench bleeding moves the pistons and gets trapped air pressure bleeding probably wouldn't. Bench bleed first then once the master is on the car put the pressure bleeding to it.
How about if I did a combination of pressing the brake pedal and pressure bleeding? Pressing the brake pedal would move the piston in the M/C. Only thing is if there is uneven pressure on both tanks with the pressure bleeder it could kill the proportioning valve by forcing its little equalizer off to one side. Its a Right Stuff proportioning valve and it does not have a reset button on it.
 

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You can experiment all day long with different "bandaid, don't want to pull the MC" approaches, but in the end if you want to be sure, just pull the MC, bench bleed it. It's just a few fittings to loosten and you'll and be done with it. Then at least you can eliminate the MC if you have any other problems. With a Motive it won't take you long. Good weekend exercise.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, will do the Motive first. I'm halfway there with tubing and a collection pail at each wheel to make things go faster.

Just one more question, the rear discs on the Right Stuff setup....the bleed screw is halfway down at an angle on the caliper so air conceivably will stay in an uppermost pocket in the caliper. Do I have to unbolt the caliper and position it upwards so the bleed screw is at a topmost position to bleed it properly?
 

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Okay, will do the Motive first. I'm halfway there with tubing and a collection pail at each wheel to make things go faster.

Just one more question, the rear discs on the Right Stuff setup....the bleed screw is halfway down at an angle on the caliper so air conceivably will stay in an uppermost pocket in the caliper. Do I have to unbolt the caliper and position it upwards so the bleed screw is at a topmost position to bleed it properly?
To answer the question in bold above I would say yes. Put a block of wood or something in the caliper the thickness of the rotor so you can easily put it back on.

As for bench bleeding the master it can be done on the car with a helper pushing the pedal and taking the lines off the master. If you have the plastic fittings and hoses to pump the fluid up top that's even better.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, guys! The feedback on this site is fantastic....
 

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One more thing a lot of guys may miss. I did until I saw the tool. The tool being a plastic piece that screws in the top of the prop valve that keeps the thingy from moving left or right that sets off the brake warning light. It can be a booger to reset.
 

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One more thing a lot of guys may miss. I did until I saw the tool. The tool being a plastic piece that screws in the top of the prop valve that keeps the thingy from moving left or right that sets off the brake warning light. It can be a booger to reset.
Do you know if this tool will fit an OEM distribution block on a '69 or just the CPP Proportioning valve? I've never had a problem bleeding the brakes without this so is it necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do you know if this tool will fit an OEM distribution block on a '69 or just the CPP Proportioning valve? I've never had a problem bleeding the brakes without this so is it necessary?
The problem I'm having is that it's never bled to the rears. To the front, yes, so that's making me think it's the shuttle valve off center. What I would like to do, after getting it centered is to keep it centered without worrying about it. So, that's why I want to have this tool. I've spent hours trying to get it to bleed properly to no avail so want to cover all bases.
 
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