price for a 69 z/28
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862 Posts
Well we need more info and pic's.
The absolute best way of knowing is to have it appriased. It can be difficult since there are many things to look at and know whether it belongs on an original Z or not. If you not concerned about originality a decent 69 Z if it does in fact have the original 302 can be anywhere from 25,000 to 35,000 depending on the shape of the body. There are so many factors that can be worked in here and that is what makes it tough to figure out. Another part of this is what your willing to spend of course and can be the biggest factor. I am sure current Z owners will chime in here. I don't own a 69 Z since they are out of my price range. I do own a 68 RS and I recently had mine appraised and I was surprised. Mine was worth somewhat less than what I expected but I am still happy that I know for sure now. Best of luck to you in you possible purchase!
Nowhere in this ad does it say anything about numbers matching. Correct and numbers matching are two different things. This place is only about 45 minutes east of here. I know they have alot of nice looking cars, but as far as being able to say they are or are not reputable, I can't say for sure. Mike.:beers: :beers:
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862 Posts
I noticed the same thing about the correct date motor. I would think that would be a little bit high for me.
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218 Posts
see if you can get a pic sent of the vin and trim tag....then post it.
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8,303 Posts
One of the things our members do here is help watch out and spot fakes, which are pretty out of hand. That car is in the upper part of the price range, so it had better be matching and really nice.
Information we need here to help narrow down a ballpark value are:
VIN
cowl tag information, every number and letter
Engine assembly stamp (on surface in front of passenger side head) info
Engine partial VIN stamp
Block casting number and date
head casting numbers and dates
intake casting and date
carb stamp info
trans stamping info
rear axle stamping info
You get the idea. When all that data is available, it can be looked at on a macro level to see how things line up. For example, was the drivetrain assembled at various dates 6 months after the car was built? RED FLAG. Does the VIN indicate the car was built in November 68 and the cowl tag is dated for June of 69. RED FLAG.
If the information generally lines up, then you move to the next level of information, which is generally high quality digital photos of all the above stampings (to make sure they don't appear to be restamped) and trim tag (to make sure it's not a fake put on just to show the magic X33 or X77 code, or to make sure it's not a real tag attached with wood screws). Check the hidden VINs (you'll only be able to see the one on the cowl on an assembled car) to make sure they match the dash VIN to avoid headaches.
Like the guys said, I see enough to question in the ad to suspect that it is really overpriced in the market, even if it began as a Z and is solid.
Information we need here to help narrow down a ballpark value are:
VIN
cowl tag information, every number and letter
Engine assembly stamp (on surface in front of passenger side head) info
Engine partial VIN stamp
Block casting number and date
head casting numbers and dates
intake casting and date
carb stamp info
trans stamping info
rear axle stamping info
You get the idea. When all that data is available, it can be looked at on a macro level to see how things line up. For example, was the drivetrain assembled at various dates 6 months after the car was built? RED FLAG. Does the VIN indicate the car was built in November 68 and the cowl tag is dated for June of 69. RED FLAG.
If the information generally lines up, then you move to the next level of information, which is generally high quality digital photos of all the above stampings (to make sure they don't appear to be restamped) and trim tag (to make sure it's not a fake put on just to show the magic X33 or X77 code, or to make sure it's not a real tag attached with wood screws). Check the hidden VINs (you'll only be able to see the one on the cowl on an assembled car) to make sure they match the dash VIN to avoid headaches.
Like the guys said, I see enough to question in the ad to suspect that it is really overpriced in the market, even if it began as a Z and is solid.
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1,464 Posts
As noted, you need to know whether the drivetrain (302, M20 & 12 Bolt Rear) are simply correct replacement parts or TRUE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT. You/we need pics of the motor front stamp pad, rear casting number, head casting #'s, carb stamp #, intake & exhaust manifold casting #'s, transmission casting & stamp #'s, rear end casting #, etc. What is the rear end gear ratio? Is there any original documentation and anything on the rebuild of the motor to confirm whether the internals are original or replacement parts? Finally, what is your intended purpose for the car, ie: cruise or just for show. This one is up there in value that would make me a little uncomfortable driving it on the freeway. Beautiful car! Good luck in your search. At this price range, there are fewer buyers, so take the time you need to make sure you are getting EXACTLY what you are paying for----- mistakes will be costly! Charlie 69 RS
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1,927 Posts
The price of $67,500 would represent a true numbers matching car.
The dealer selling the car is either,
1) Unaware that providing documentation that this is in fact a true numbers matching car will help to sell the car, or
2) Aware that this is a clone, and, hoping to scam someone into paying numbers matching money.
The dealer selling the car is either,
1) Unaware that providing documentation that this is in fact a true numbers matching car will help to sell the car, or
2) Aware that this is a clone, and, hoping to scam someone into paying numbers matching money.
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4,395 Posts
These days I am not sure that the price asked represents only true numbers matching cars...if everything is correct and it is a date code correct car with a rotisserie resto done correctly that you can eat off of .. you couldn't buy a non numbers matching car and restore it for that price...that being said there are all original matching drive train cars out there in that price range for sure.. it just depends on what you want.. sounds like you want an original drive train car so the guys are correct... watch the slick lingo...correct and original are two different things... as a matter of fact original and numbers matching are now two different things so make sure you cross and dot everything. I would post in the Bench Section of the forums that you are looking for someone who is up to date on the 69 Z/28's to see if he or she will go with you to look at the car. If the car was in my area I could go look at it for you and it would have to be a great fake to get by me as I have seen quite a few fakes the last few years .
Jerry MacNeish has a friends Z28 that is looking for a good home. Red, Black stripes, black interior N34 wheel AM radio, 410 axle, D80 spoilers, console and gauges. Red white and blue certified from the ICC. Restored back in the early 90's and done right, all original drivetrain, etc. Not cheap (not much more than this one) but he's not going to sell it to a flipper, its only going to go to someone who wants one as a keeper. Contact Jerry if you are really interested in a top of the line car.
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