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Discussion Starter #1
Well I bought a new printed circuit and installed it on a "gauge cluster", rewired the "warning lite plug" as per instruction on a a thread somewhere around here and, well it didn't do so well.
The gas gauge is pegged and the signals lite up the drivers side no matter where the signal switch arm is, up or down.
Oh well the whole car is about to get a trip to the junk yard!
 

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Pegged one way would be a bad or missing ground. I have no first hand exp with these printed circuit boards but have seen a few post here where folks mention posts grounding out when the unit is mounted. Or the Mylar bunching up and shorting across another part of the circuit board. So maybe just pull it, check all the connections and gingerly reinstall it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok here is what happens.
I turn on the key, push the turn signal down and the left T/S flashes as does the resat of the front bulbs.
In the dash, the brake light blinks also.
Push signal up and the right T/S flashes as does the left dash indicator, and the volts gauge beats with the signal and all the front parking lamps dimly blink.
No taillites at all.
Gas gauge is pegged to the right the whole time and stays there now!
I used the wiring guide off this link http://www.nastyz28.com/2gcog/tech/u14swap.html
but I don't think it works for an 81 because some wires were a little different and some of the directions aren't exactly clear to understand.
Anyway I wish i could have found a regular dash pod when i was looking and needed it.
Right now the fenders, door, and drivetrane are out of the car and it might be time to give it up and junk it and find a Camaro more close to driving after I install my engine.
Doesnt really bother me to junk it because im not really into T-tops anyways.
 

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Well the instructions say its compatible with 81 but someone may have already altered your wiring harness if the wire colors were different. Maybe you missed the white stripes on either green or tan or light blue wires and confused them with the unstriped versions?


THESE ARE THE PIN SWAPS THAT YOU MUST DO. ONCE THIS IS COMPLETE, THE SEQUENTIAL ORDER OF THE COLOR CODED WIRES WILL BE THAT, WHICH APPEARS IN THE PICTURE, ABOVE.

How does your now differ from that picture?
If you can remember where each was or took before pictures you should be able to start at square one again and try it again.
Here is the referenced wiring diagram from the article so you can follow the wire color here and find what it goes to. Its black and white but you can always print it out and use colored highlighters or steal your kids crayons and trace the color wires you need.



only 12 wires so it shouldn't take long to set it straight. Just be patient and make sure you have good light so you don't miss the stripes on the wires.

To swap the wires, you release the wire contact from the plug on the end of the wiring harness. You can release the pin by inserting a very small screwdriver or paper clip into the connector and depressing the locking tab. Once you release the tab, slip the wire contact out of the plug and bend the small locking tab back. Insert the wire contact into the designated position (listed above), it will click when it engages back into the connector).

Double check that the wires in the new positions are locked in to the harness connector. Loose connector may be the issue.

The volt meter has its' own spade plug connection. You can just run a lead into the "IGN" terminal of the fuse box which supplies power only when the key is in the "on "position.

Where did you pull power from for this?

tach goes into pin 1 (just run a wire from the distributor [TACH] plug on HEI. If you're careful you can re-use the harness pin from old Pin 4).

Then what did you do about the tach connection? Did you reuse the old number 4 wire or run a new lead to the tach through the fire wall? If you ran a new wire is the old number 4 grounding out or is it taped up neat?

You must purchase and install a new temperature sending unit (FOR GAUGES) for the temperature gauge to work properly. ( I purchased a "Standard" brand, stock number "TS6", for about $12.00, from my local parts store.

Did you install the temp sender as required? It could need to be grounded by the block.

Hope it helps you get either to the finish-line or back to square one for a second pass at it.

Brian
 

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Hi guys. I don't want to hijack the thread but are you putting a rally dash in a non rally dash car?
I bought an 80 Z-clone, and want to do just that.
Any tips/trick I will need to know before I start this? :confused:
Tks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi guys. I don't want to hijack the thread but are you putting a rally dash in a non rally dash car?
I bought an 80 Z-clone, and want to do just that.
Any tips/trick I will need to know before I start this? :confused:
Tks in advance.
You should be able to follow the above instructions and it should work
I would take a pic of the way its originally wires before tearing into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well unfortunately the wiring problem led to parting out the car today.:mad:
I'll post pics later.:(
 

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Wow sorry to hear that.
 
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