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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 68' RS/SS with a factory console and muncie transmission. I just got done installing a hurst competition plus shifter (part #3914339), using install kit (part #3734529). There is a problem with the shifter arm hitting the woodgrain console plate when I try to put it into 1st gear. I have to remove the cover plate from the console in order to move the arm far enough forward to get it into gear. I was just wondering if anyone has had this problem and if there is anything else I can do to fix it except by bending the arm. Is there any adjustment that anyone knows of to move the arm more to the rear? By the way, this shifter is replacing a muncie shifter that had no clearance problems with the console plate. I placed a call to Summit who in turn called Hurst with this same question and have yet to hear anything back. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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And you've followed Hurst's instruction in the alignment of the shifter box-to-linkage with the supplied alignment pin.

And it still hits, however, it doesn't hit in 2nd & 4th?

I had the same problem. I got a coat hangar and made a handle form equal to the Hurst shape. Then subbed the coat hgr for the shifter handle. The point is to make the coat hangar a more acute angle to avoid hitting both sides of the console plate.

Once the correct angle is obtained, remove the handle and clamp in a vise at the bolt end. Get a washcloth drenched in cold water and wrap above the bend. Use an oxy-actylene torch and heat the elbow/bend. Pull/push handle to desired angle. Remove heat, then throw handle into a bucket of cold water and let cool.

The washcloth is to prevent heat from climbing up the stick to discolor the chrome, some will discolor, but not want shows.
 

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With the correct parts, the shifter should fit without hitting. I have the Comp Plus shifter and linkage kit for a '69 with console (same as a '68) and I didn't need to bend the shift arm. The only thing I had to do was trim about 3/4 on the black shift tunnel to clear the shifter arm and boot. I'm sure Everett's method will make it work, but with the correct parts I don't think you should have to. I don't remember my part numbers. Im sure others will chime in.
 

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68 and 69 Camaro use a different aftermarket Hurst shifter and a different install kit.
Some of the parts are the same but not all.
The 68 mount plate is a larger plate that has a u clamp around trans tail
The 68 stick no is 4106
The 69 stick no is 7436

If you have the right 68 aftermarket Hurst shifter mount bracket, it has a slot on one bolt hole so you can adjust the shifter position .
(unless Hurst changed the old design)
Get the shifter position correct first with no rods hooked up. Then do your rod adjustments.

I have done a lot of these over years and you just have to screw around with it until it fits right but if you don't have all the correct parts, it may never fit right.
Hurst stuff is made well and will work great if you have the right set-up.
 

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Joe is 100% right. when I had a muncie, I'd bought what seems to have been a 69 install kit, it didn't have the u-bolt wrapping around the tailshaft.

I had the same problem the poster is having, and solved it ny moving my console an inch.

What I don't understand is why 68 and 69 would be different?
Same trans, motor mounts, crossmember, and console....
 

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Hmm, Hurst has changed mgmt since I used them in the early '80's. I had a 68 4-spd and installed the aftermarket shifter and it hit the console.

I took it back to the staore and exchanged it for another. Parts guy, who also was the owner of the store, said there is a listing for '69. I tried the 69 number and it still hit the console. Sixty-nine had 3/8 inch diameter holes (bolts) for the side cover where 68 and older have 5/16 inch diameter holes for 5/16 studs.

Talked to my neighbor, who had mech'd at a speed shop who installed what they sold for his job, said the same, they all hit the console.

Both sticks were flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone for the great tips! I did find the slot in the shifter housing and am going to try adjusting the arm first like JOE58 suggested. If this doesn't work than I will just bend the arm and make it fit. It does hit in 3rd gear also. I just hope that I was shipped the correct shifter and install kit. The correct part #'s were on the boxes, but you never know what's going to be inside?
For information purposes, the original Muncie shifter arm is round and the aftermarket Hurst is flat.
Thanks again everybody for your thoughts & ideas:) ,
Mark
 

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I'll bet you have the engine stands that put the motor forward a bit. There are two different sets. Is there quite a bit of space in back of your distributor? I tilted my Hurst all the way back and still had to move the console a 1/4" or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I do have some space in back of the distributor but it's hard to tell if it's more than normal. When you say engine stands, do you mean motor mounts. Mine are stock mounts as far as I know, since I never had to replace them. When you say that you moved your console 1/4", did you have to drill new holes in the floor board to do this? Or is there another way of doing this that I'm not aware of? I'll let you know if I have the same problem as you did when I rotate the shifter back.
Thanks for the post,
Mark
 

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I do have some space in back of the distributor but it's hard to tell if it's more than normal. When you say engine stands, do you mean motor mounts. Mine are stock mounts as far as I know, since I never had to replace them. When you say that you moved your console 1/4", did you have to drill new holes in the floor board to do this? Or is there another way of doing this that I'm not aware of? I'll let you know if I have the same problem as you did when I rotate the shifter back.
Thanks for the post,
Mark
The engine stands bolted to the frame. If the car is equipped with a 327/307, the engine is forward by an inch in reference to 350/302 stands. With 327 stands, an HEI distributor does fit, 350/302 stands, the firwall needs massaging.
Is the first sheave of the crankshaft pulley directly over the sway bar? If it is, 327 mounts.

Moving the console forward as JimM suggested involves unbolting the console from the floor, two bolts up front (feel up front after removing the shifter plate), and 1(?) in the rear (remove the ashtray), and either install new rivnuts, or clinch nuts, or install through bolts and nuts on the underside, forward of the OE hardware in the trans tunnel.
 

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I have original 302/350 stands with 1/4"+ of firewall clearance for my HEI. No massaging so your results may vary!

I was able to get fine shifter clearance by rotating the stick as described. Good luck, let us know how you do!
 

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I'm having a little bit of a centering problem too with my shifter in a big block. mines a 67 but had to use a 69 install kit because the 67 uses a u-bolt around the tailshaft and it wouldn't fit my trans. A friend let me use his 69 shift lever 7436 it fits real close could make that work. If anyone has a 69 shift lever 7436 I sure could use it.
 
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