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Discussion Starter #1
I wanted to share this build with the community here, hopefully I can add some value. The project is pretty simple - modern driveline in a 68 Camaro and keep it as 'original' looking as possible. I picked this car up late last year as a roller but I had one big requirement, it had to be painted. I had been looking for a project that was already through paint and body but needed a driveline and interior. I didn't want to get wrapped up in a body shop project for numerous reasons. This is what I found....

I never would intent to change a car that had a lot of original parts, good news for me - this car has no history and next to no original parts. Seller was advertising as a RS/SS but it's clearly not an SS. However, since there was a large investment in SS parts we'll keep it that way. Here's what I do know, it is a V8 car that was red/white vinyl top and black standard interior. Production date is within the first 4,000 cars produced (8N304xxx) for 1968, 08D. My best guess is it was a 327 automatic with a console. Also appears to have the speed minder RPO as well. Also based on CRG info and parts original to the car, it is an RS.

Over the last few months I had been installing parts that came with the car like glass, RS front grille, trim, etc.

Here's my plan - I picked up a LS3 480hp GMPP crate engine with GM controller kit. Trans is a used 4th Gen T56 and a new LS7 GM clutch. Car came with a 12 bolt, I just freshened that up with 3.73 gears and rebuilt kit. Hotchkis springs front and back with Bilstiens.

What I thought I would share is the new Holley LS swap parts for 1st Gen Camaros. This debuted at SEMA and is all finally available for purchase. They have an entire kit that has 1 7/8 headers, oil pan, engine mounts, and Trans mount for T56. These were all just ordered the other day. Once I receive them I will post pics and notes. The 'sell' for me was that this was all designed to work together and have the best possible ground clearance. Oil pan and headers (full length) tucked way up in the subframe and no Trans tunnel modification.

This will be at minimum a 12-16 month project from here on out. I have done a huge amount of homework and I have most of this figured out for fuel, cooling, and other systems. We're going to do the big brakes and wheels too. Stick around.... :beers:

The car:


The bullet:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Global West Subframe Connectors - #900

I installed some subframe connectors the other day. I chose the Global West product for a few reasons. I like the round tube look, I did not need to cut the floor open, and they seem to tuck up against the floor pretty well too. They are also 'mid-range' on the price scale as well. They also came with solid rear body bushings/mounts and all hardware included. I thought I would post this since there are no recent reviews on here for this part. Apparently older models covered the leaf spring bolts. These DO NOT cover any bolts.

Overall - good product.

Here are a couple of pics, hard to get good pictures when everything is black.


 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hooker/Holley 12618HKR - Engine Mounts

Today I installed the engine mounts to the LS3 and the cross member. Had some stumbling points with this today. Seems like some of the supplied hardware is too short. I gave a PM into one of the Holley guys over on PT.com. He replied once already today which I thought was pretty good for a Sunday.

This kit still needs a lot of parts to make it complete:
- Prothane engine mounts if you don't want the rubber ones.
- Donor 2292 engine mounts for 72-81 Camaro
- Long engine bolts - Help 81101

For the most part everything went well, just needed to source some 1 1/2" bolts in place of the 1" ones. I'm still missing those in my pictures.

Nice looking product. Once the oil pan gets here we should be getting close to dropping everything in.



 

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I'll be watching this thread as that's the same kit I want to use for the LS1 swap into my '69.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Still waiting on back ordered Holley oil pan, this has me stalled with driveline progress. Headers and trans cross member are ready to go. Hope to have motor and trans in the car in the next 2-3 weeks.

There is a lot of debate about how the windshield and back window go in these cars, tape kit vs urethane. Urethane is the right way and it thought I would share some of that here, I installed the windshield today.

The windshield I used came from a local glass shop and is China made and the brand is Guardian, $132. The window fit very well and one notable difference is that it's a lot thinner than an original, .100". Original was .288". I had an original but it was damaged while getting it prepped.

There is a glass shop in Scranton, Pa called First Class Auto Glass. The gentleman there puts together the needed supplies to do both front and rear glass. One thing that is special is the urethane tape dam. This stuff is hard to find without having to buy an entire case. He supplies the dam, urethane, pinch weld primer, blocks, scotch brite, brushes, & instructions.

Supplies:

Window w/ dam before urethane:

Scuff and apply pinch weld primer:

Shoot a high 'V' bead of urethane outside the dam.
Make some marks to align the window, you have to go in perfectly straight:

After you have it in, you will 'spoon' the urethane in under the window. Your just making sure that you have a good seal all the way around.
Up close of what it looks like:

Finished product with trim:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Holley 302-2 Oil Pan

Today I was able to get the oil pan on, flywheel, pressure plate together and joined Trans to engine.

Oil Pan - Everything went together OK but the directions in the box were not the same as what's online. You have to modify the windage tray and the directions in the box do not have the part.

Here is a pic of the windage tray modified, it needed shortened and notched for the pick up tube.



Next was the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, bellhousing, and then T56.
This is a LS7 stock clutch setup and I used Oilite pilot bushing, GM part. Also added a remote bleeder for the throw out bearing from Speedway Motors.




Tomorrow - the goal is to put this in the car. Reviews of the headers and crossmember coming soon!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hooker 2276-1 Full Length Ceramic Coated Headers 1 7/8 primary 3" collector
T56 Holley Crossmember 12626HKR

Great day today, engine and Trans are in their new home!

Lot of pics below but I gotta say this was easy, everything fell into place as expected. Looks great & plenty of clearance. Oil pan is way up in, just below flush with the crossmember. Headers are tucked way up in and have plenty of clearance everywhere. Lots of clearance around plugs and wires, steering box too. After seeing all the different combos out there I was a little scared with what I would end up with but this did the trick. All components from one manufacturer is the way to go.

Engine sits almost exactly in the same location as our '69 350 does in relation to the firewall. No cutting or fabrication needed on the trans tunnel with the T56 either. Overall I am very happy with this kit, good job Hooker/Holley. Other than bolts being too short with engine mounts everything was great.

More to come, next up is the accessories and engine harness.











 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dan, Jeff,

Thx! I'll have more next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This weekend I made some progress. I installed the front drive accessories which consist of the alternator and power steering gear. These are Corvette accessories from what I understand. Kit part number is GM 19257325, purchased from Jegs. Price seems pretty fair form what you get, all new parts and all GM. This was pretty straight forward but the instruction sheets could have used a little clearer photos. The only other issue was a change of part number for two fasteners. Problems with the car now - washer bottle needs moved, I'm not sure where that will go yet. And the PS pulley is way close to the UCA. I will be getting one that is slightly smaller - GM 12578552. Update on that later. Photos of the front drive below.

I also found the covers for the transmission, I took pictures for reference. These were a bear to find, cost was ~$24 from GM dealer. Part number are in the pictures below.

I also started the engine harness and exhaust.





 

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Looks great.

Did you place the motor in the stock position?

Have fun with the harness. At 1st it just looks like where is all the extra wire going to end up?

The easiest is to work from the engine out. Starting with the injectors and work towards the ECM and fuse box. The sensor wires pretty much fall into place although most are to long. We rewrapped with power braid and folded inside the braid to take up the excess length.

I like the hookers. How is the clearance at the steering box?

I have supercomps on mine but I have rack and pinion. We are building my sons LS 69 and the supercomps on his do not have the clearance we desire.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Looks great.

Did you place the motor in the stock position?

Have fun with the harness. At 1st it just looks like where is all the extra wire going to end up?

The easiest is to work from the engine out. Starting with the injectors and work towards the ECM and fuse box. The sensor wires pretty much fall into place although most are to long. We rewrapped with power braid and folded inside the braid to take up the excess length.

I like the hookers. How is the clearance at the steering box?

I have supercomps on mine but I have rack and pinion. We are building my sons LS 69 and the supercomps on his do not have the clearance we desire.
Thx John. I'm super motivated to get this one fired after seeing the videos of the one you just did.

The Holley kit does not adjust, it's fixed in what seems to be a stock location. I got most of the harness done, O2's, Alt, MAF are pretty long. Long is better than short when it comes to pre-made wiring like this. Good tip with the power braid.

Headers appear to have plenty of clearance everywhere, so far so good. I have clearance pics in a previous post.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Got the starter and smaller pulley installed on the power steering today.

The starter is for a 2010 Camaro LS3. I found this and searched for the best price. Everything to the door was $128. These are all new GM parts not reman. And we have plenty of room all around the headers.

Starter - 12617229
Bolt - 11610787 x2
Solenoid plug - PT170

The smaller pulley was needed to make sure we have plenty of clearance at the UCA flange. If you clearance the UCA or have aftermarket UCA's you will be okay more than likely. Part is for a CTSV power steering pump. Overall this is just over 1/2" smaller in diameter. Part number is 12578552



Old pulley:

New pulley:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm not sure why exhaust seems to be a task on these cars. For this car I used the Magnaflow 2.5" duals with 2 mufflers under the car. After what seemed like an eternity of fitting, adjusting, fitting, adjusting, welding, adjusting.... You get the idea. I was able to complete this job today. The only thing I needed that was not in the Magnaflow kit were some 3" ID to 2.5" reducers, and 3" band clamps. The only thing I could find at a reasonable price was from Flowmaster. Unfortunately these were not stainless.

Magnaflow - 15896. Got a really good deal from Amazon, <$500 to the door.

 

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Discussion Starter #20
Found a used Pro 5.0 shifter base and purchased a new stick and ball. Pretty cool product, I think anyway. It is from Bowler Performance.

 
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