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Discussion Starter #1
I have been lurking on this site for years, Spent a lot of time over on the chevelle site- time to switch gears and look at the other "project" since my chevelle is now drivable and enjoyable -not done but usable..

My dad and I bought a plain jane, No option 67 Camaro in 1986 and started turning it into a Tubbed ¼ mile car. Life happened and the car was back burnered in 1988. It sat outside in the weather since then. We had built a 2x3 frame, boxed and welded to the inside of the original subframe, partially installed a 12pt Cage, 33” ladder link ladder bars and coilovers. We did not support the body properly when removing the floor so over the past 30 years, things moved!
I decided its been Long enough and started working on it a few months ago. As I have gotten older, My working speed has slowed down. I spend a lot of time Looking and planning, Then a few minutes of work, More looking and planning, etc..
I spent the first couple weeks, squaring the body to the frame and building now body mounts, Then removed everything that unbolted. Next step was installing a more street friendly triangulated 4 link and mothballing the ladder bars. This was time consuming as my frame rails are only 26” inside so it’s a tight fit. No room for exhaust over the axle, I have some ideas on that for down the road.
It was then moved into my Tiny Garage for winter work, I have to sweep up piles of rust every day. I cleaned and patched a couple spots in the inner rocker and butt welded in some toe kick patches on the firewall (30 years in the rain takes its toll!). I am trying to decide between patching the cowl (holes cut for roll cage) or replacing it. It has some rust inside that I don’t thing I can access to remove it. The lower//outer cowls will be replaced regardless as well as the entire Dash (more roll cage holes).
I am going to buy a 1 piece stock floor and clearance it to fit around the frame we built, Then attempt to install it through the Windshield hole, This should be an interesting process. I can always section it if needed.
Based on the past, these steps should take no more than 15years. wish me luck!

Heres a pict of the rust bucket in my “minuture garage”

 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
2 valuable lessons learned today

1) tacking in a patch in the toe kick area. I kept burning holes rather than TACS, My welder was turned down extremely low- same setting I always use for sheet metal. After a few minutes I realized I had turned the feed speed way down for welding some thicker material, Turned the speed back up - Presto beautiful tacks instead of holes

2) lesson 2 - remember to dress both sides of a hole after drilling, If you forget- you will get blood all over the pretty new panel your working on


I can add 2 more check marks to my "experience tracker" now.

Forgot one- Remember to check the settings on your auto darkening welding helmet if one of your kids ( 5 yr old) has been "using" it. If you forget you may have to wait several minutes for the lovely blue dots to fade from your vision. Luckily it was only one little tac, Have had flash burn before -Not Fun!!
 

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Ken, looking and planning can sometimes be unsatisfactory without beer. Don't set yourself up for disappointment. Wine is a worthy substitute.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a 67 SS 4 speed car which had the floors cut out for narrowed frame and a cage installed. I'm going to be turning it back into a closer to stock setup including replacing the full floor. Interested to see how yours goes. Good Luck, will be checking in!

Ill be converting this to a 4sp as well. There are a lot of simple tasks that take a lot of thought due to the changes made in the past. Honestly If not for the sentimental value, I would have sold it and bought a more suitable one to rebuild. Dad lives down the street and comes over to give me a hand every few days. We spend a lot of time trying to figure out what we where thinking when we did some of the things we did. Come to the conclusion that 30 yrs ago, we had know idea what we were doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ive been slowly making progress with clean-up, rust removal (floor sweeping) and plan development. I knew that the car had some damage on the drives quarter panel that had been repaired sometime in the early 80's. just didn't know the extent, It looks like a tree or something really heavy fell on the quarter where the sail panel, trunk, and filler panel meet. The filler was 3/4" thick, the trunk opening is not symmetrical. Ill address all of that once I get to the panel replacement part of this crazy project.

As I mentioned before, Things have moved due to sitting for 30 years, and some of the structure we cut out (didn't really know what we were doing way back then). I could use some help with some odd measurements. All of the stock holes and alignment points are long gone, So I have to figure it out as I go. I need a distance between the DS and PS quarter pane at the rear bottom corner of the wheel opening. The tail panel has drooped causing these to spread apart. If I rebuild the support at the tail panel to correct the droop I should be able to get the quarters back in the ball park and can fine tune when I start replacing the exterior metal.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Have you checked out this thread? I'm planning to make a jig to get my 67 lined up all the floors and rear frame rails are literally gone, rockers are good though. http://www.camaros.net/forums/12-body-shop/163374-body-cart-plans-materials-list.html
Unfortunately due to the modifications we made years ago, the sub frame cant be removed. the only stock reference points I have left are the door hinge mounts, fender mount holes, and rear bumper mounts. I want to keep the frame rails, roll cage, and narrowed 9" (sentimental value). I am trying to complete the car with the Vision dad and I had 30 years ago, While trying to fix issues we caused due to lack of knowledge and foresight 30 years ago. Its going to be an interesting, frustrating venture. Dad comes down every few days and checks on the progress (he lives down the street) we discuss plans and possibilities for which ever small project I'm attempting to tackle. I'm sure I will be asking for odd measurements and some strange questions as we progress, all in an attempt to figure out how to fix our screw-ups

Dads not getting any younger, I want to make sure He and I have a chance to go for a ride or two before it is no longer a possibility.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My 67 shell is still pretty straight and lined up with the rockers being solid and quarters too and it's totally stripped so if I can help with any measurements or photos let me know.
I could use a measurement between the rear corner of the quarter windows opening. Due to the damage and our hack job, I think my DS quarter is leaning out. I could also use a measurement between the lower rear corners of the rear wheel opening in the quarters.

Thank you for your willingness to help!!
 

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Ken, are you dead set on keeping the roll bar ?? Honestly if it were me I would cut that roll bar out and remove the front subframe and send it out for sandblasting. I'm not sure what your overall plans are for the car, but I don't think your building a track car anymore. Anyway, I'm sure you have 100's of decisions too make. Good luck on the project.
 

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I could use a measurement between the rear corner of the quarter windows opening. Due to the damage and our hack job, I think my DS quarter is leaning out. I could also use a measurement between the lower rear corners of the rear wheel opening in the quarters.



Thank you for your willingness to help!!


Is it possible you can take a photo and mark up where you need the measurements? Would make it easier for me to make certain I'm giving you the right ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Is it possible you can take a photo and mark up where you need the measurements? Would make it easier for me to make certain I'm giving you the right ones.
Ill get some pictures tomorrow, its toooooo cold tonight
 

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Unfortunately due to the modifications we made years ago, the sub frame cant be removed. the only stock reference points I have left are the door hinge mounts, fender mount holes, and rear bumper mounts. I want to keep the frame rails, roll cage, and narrowed 9" (sentimental value). I am trying to complete the car with the Vision dad and I had 30 years ago,

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The subframe can be removed. All you need are the subframe/unibody dimensions to construct and repair the car. Using these will enable you to do any work required to refurbish the shell. If you worked in collision you would need them to yank the car. I don't have the images in Pbucket, but they have been posted on this site countless times. I always have 1-3 first gens in my shop, some with excellent original nearly rot free bodies, including my own with original panels. If you need some dimensions let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The subframe can be removed. All you need are the subframe/unibody dimensions to construct and repair the car. Using these will enable you to do any work required to refurbish the shell. If you worked in collision you would need them to yank the car. I don't have the images in Pbucket, but they have been posted on this site countless times. I always have 1-3 first gens in my shop, some with excellent original nearly rot free bodies, including my own with original panels. If you need some dimensions let me know.
The sub frame is welded to the 2x3 frame we built in the 80's It is effectively a full frame car, There are 3 solid mounts welded between the frame and inner rocker down each side. I could pull it out If I cut and removed all of the mounts. I am planning on keeping the frame as Dad, My younger brother, and I built and installed it together. The roll cage will come out temporarily but will be partially re-installed. I'm converting it to a 6 point with Drop bars in the door area, and reformed bars going to the rear frame (basically the main hoop is being reused). I trying to get it mobile with out breaking the bank while keeping it close to are original dream. Doing it this way is going to create some headaches and extra work with out a doubt, I am willing to deal with it to fulfill a group vision.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
here is some of the damage I'm dealing with, This area had 1/2-3/4 inch thick plastic filler maybe even a full inch in some areas. the trunk opening is out of shape as well as several other locations. 30 years ago we cut out a lot of the inner structure for BIG wheel tubs, this did not help. I'm trying to get everything as close to where it should be before I start hacking panels off for replacement. one of the measurements I need is in the picture at the bottom.



 

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Discussion Starter #19
I took that measurement from an original car without the roofrail weatherstrip channel installed. Tape measure all the way back like yours, measuring one quarter ledge to the other where the outer window felts attach. Reading from the front of tape where your thumb is shows 60".
thanks, It looks like the quarter/b piller on the Driver side is leaning out, It makes sense looking at the giant dent that this area and possibly the near the bumper would bow out
 

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thanks, It looks like the quarter/b piller on the Driver side is leaning out, It makes sense looking at the giant dent that this area and possibly the near the bumper would bow out
Just to be clear, my measurement was to the inside edges of the quarter ledges, right where the slots are for the outer felts. You should be close to 60".
 
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