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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well I finally decided I needed my own project thread rather than keep posting updates to my welcome thread:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?p=897978

For lack of a better project name, I chose "Sleeper" since I want to keep the stock look of my 69 Camaro but modernize it with more HP, better brakes, suspension etc. Obviously if you look closely you will notice it is not stock, but hopefully to the casual observer it will look like a stocker. I am still considering putting full Z/28 emblems on it and a 302 cowl decal just to throw one off further.

Some pictures of the car:




It is a 69 Camaro with the RS option with a cowl hood, automatic (700R4) and white interior. It has some z/28 Emblems that the previous owner had put on them. I was also told that it had a early 90s restoration done to it. I think the guy I bought the car from got it running again (bought it from a younger guy) and flipped it. I base this on the general state that the car was in (all the fluids hadn't been changed in a long time, radiator was just about rusted out etc). But that is okay, I was looking for something that had a really good body but needed an engine. I was still able to drive it home just fine, although it had some electrical and carb problems later and sat.

Overall the goal is to do as much work myself as I possibly can, both to learn how to do it and for the challenge.

I enrolled in a local JC and started taking automotive classes as I really hadn't done stuff like this before and really wanted to do it right. So it didn't take long for me to pull it apart anyways:



Old engine and trans, and old tired 307 passenger block from a late 70s early 80s car and a 700R4 trans:



Originally the plan was just to build an engine for the car, but that snowballed (more about that later). So I started building a big block to drop in the car. It is a 454 GenV block I found at a junkyard (took 4 tries to get one without cracks in it). It is bored 030 over with a stroker crank making it 489ci (8.0L).

So starting on the engine blue print, it is magna-fluxed, sonic tested. Mains, cylinder bores and deck are checked for straightness to get a baseline (pretty good but some machining is in order to make it perfect):



All the machining is done by me in my engine machining class (except boring and honing they didn't have that machine at the time).

Nice fresh block (with Por-15 engine paint on it; I just love this paint, you can hammer it and pour brake clean on it, doesn't phase it):


Custom grinding was done on the top of the block for increased oil return and a screen kit is installed (case I grenade a valve it will save my bottom end):


 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Bottom end goes together:


All the main bearings are clearanced within .0001 of each other, for very even oil distribution. The goal is not so much max HP but a high HP build that will be very reliable.

Brodix RR-O heads are purchased. Out of the box they have a horrible run-out on the valve seats (max of .009; when we want to see under .002 at least; ideal is under .0005). The guides are honed, valves are checked (they are really good less than .0005 run out on the valve face). Machining the valve seats is done and a run-out of under .0005 is attained. The heads are surfaced (the surface wasn't perfectly flat, plus wanted to raise the compression just a tad).


The intake and exhaust ports are ported and polished.


The chambers are cleaned up and CC matched within 0.1 CC of each other. The heads are vacuum checked (20in of Vacuum they seal nice and tight). Should have a real nice and even compression ratio across all cylinders of 9.8:1:


Cam goes in:


It is a Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. I went with the Thumpr as from my understanding a common weakness of a big block is it lack of exhaust breathing. My hope is that with the 107 deg lob separation and the increased exhaust duration that this will help correct some it.

Pistons, rods and pins are all weighed and measured. One Piston was a bit out of spec but JE in Huntington Beach swapped it right out for me with a smile, even giving me one that allowed me to get my piston to cylinder wall clearances all within .0001 of each other.

Pistons are SRP forged, crank is a Eagle cast crank good for 750hp (since I am not building a high RPM motor should be good), rings are Perfect Circle moly and rods are I-Beam Eagle.



Pins are installed, rings are gapped, rod bearings clearance like the mains to .0001 of each other.

Short block is together now:






Oil pump is a Moroso high volume with pickup and wind age tray.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Heads go on, nice shot of the custom grinding both on the block and heads:


Verifying timing:


Intake is port matched to the heads and goes on. Fulll roller rockers (Comp Cams) with 1.7:1 ratio. Edelbrock RPM Air gap:


Valve and timing covers go on (Trans-dapt powder coated valve covers and GM stock timing cover for a GenV motor painted with left over Por-15):


Valve covers are crappy and leak and replaced later but the intake sure looks nice (durashine finish):


Water pump (Stewart Components Stage 2 pump) and MSD Distributor go in:


March performance pulleys for v-belt systems and Holly Street avenger 770cfm with air cleaner go on:


Hooker ceramic coated headers with 2” primaries and 3.5” collectors:



Finished product ready to start up:
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
After initialing firing up the motor on an engine stand, all the problems found were fixed (bad radiator cap, leaking valve covers, spark plug wire holders that let the wires hit the headers etc)





Fast Air/Fuel meter and dual wideband O2 sensors are installed, along with Pypes Race-Pro mufflers (went with their 3” stainless exhaust kit as well):


More engine buildup pics here:

http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Engine/

General Stats for the engine
Engine Type
Big Block Chevy displacing 489ci / 8.0L
(4.280 bore x 4.250 stroke)
Block
454 Big Block Chevy GenV standard deck

Compression Ratio
9.8:1

Oiling
Moroso 6 quart oil pan
Moroso high volume oil pump
Moroso windage tray
Custom machining done to top of block to increase oil return

Rotating Assembly
Eagle Rotating Assembly, Eagle cast crank, Forged SRP Pistons, Eagle I-Beam Rods, Perfect Circle Moly Rings, Clevite Tri-Armor Bearings

Cylinder Heads
Brodix Race-Rite Oval Port 270cc intake runner, 119cc Combustion chambers. Race valve job, Mini-ported, chambers matched and polished.

Camshaft
Comp Cams "Thumpr" roller cam 227/241 @.050 547/530 lift 107deg lobe separation. Roller timing chain

Valvetrain
2.250 inch intake / 1.880 exhaust valves
5/16" Comp Cams magnum push rods
dual valve springs

Induction
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap manifold, Holly Street Avenger 770cfm, Aeromotive Street Rod electric fuel pump

Ignition
MSD 6AL box and Distributor with MSD 8.8 spark plug wires

Exhaust
Hooker ceramic coated headers 2 in primaries, 3.5 in collector. Pypes 3" stainless exhaust system with Race-pro mufflers

Fastners
ARP

Gaskets
Fel-Pro

Cooling
Ron Davis Double pass radiator with integrated coolant recovery tank, dual 13" spal fans and controller, Stewart Components Stage 2 high flow water pump, Robert Shaw thermostat, Earl's transmission cooler.

Misc
Tilton Super Starter, March Performance V-Belt system. Billet Specialties Valve covers, wire holders and breathers. Moroso battery relocation kit. Por-15 engine paint.


Should be about 600hp and 600ft-lbs of torque at peak at the flywheel and about 500ft-lbs off idle!


Special thanks to my school and instructor(s) for teaching me and letting me work on my car in the shop.


Ready to put in the car now. But wait all the brakes and suspension stuff will be easier to work on while the motor is out…
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I can’t put this nice new engine in an engine compartment like this:


So off the front clip it goes:


Needs paint badly:


[Bad pick] Once cleaned up and painted looks like new:


Time to take a look at the front suspension and firewall, just about everything needed attention (new brakes, ball joints bushings etc)




Lets pull the front sub-frame. It needed some minor welding to get it back in shape:


And start cleaning up the firewall:


Front clip back from the powder coaters:
 

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huh??
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now we are cooking, fresh paint on the firewall and front sub-frame, and new goodies:
Touring Classics C5 kit with 12.7” rotors,
AFX spindles
Global West upper and lower control arms
QA1 Double adjustable coil overs
The Right Stuff Detailing stainless brake lines
Hydroboost unit
ATS Lee blueprinted steering box
Baer Trackers
New Moog inner tie rods, pitman arm and idler arm

Thanks to Tyler at ATS for answering all my questions and setting me up with the goods.

New Big block heater core cover, restored heater box, new heater fan etc.







More front suspension pictures:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension and Brakes/Front Suspension/

Hmm, now I have to get new wheels and tires to fit the big brakes.

Since I am going to have to buy new wheels anyways might as well mini-tub the car so I only have to buy wheels/tires once.

That part of the project can be found here and was done up as a mini-tub guide:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=140271


but here is some before and after shots:


after:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Now to make the rear suspension match the front:

Old axle (2.72 open 10 bolt with mono-perches):


New Moser with 3.73 gears, 33-spline 1350 yoke, painted with Por-15 and their chassis black:


Starting the G-Bar install:


Bolts are in:


Going to weld the entire sucker in once everything is confirmed straight and true. I really like the G-Bar of all the stuff I have installed this was very easy and straight forward to install the only hiccup so far was a bolt hole in the rear of the bar that there isn’t a good way to drill a hole or start the threads:


due to the trunk being in the way (maybe particular to a 69, I dunno). Since in the end it is going to be all welded up, it really doesn’t matter.


Axle housing / diff and shocks going on:


Completed:


Also went with a Rick’s notched stainless tank, that is baffled and sumped.


More pictures can be found here:
http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l346/Marroweter/Suspension and Brakes/Rear Suspension/

Thanks to Frank and Prodigy for helping answer my questions and hooking me up with the right parts!

Next up in the project (when I get back in school) is putting brake lines and fuel lines in and then I can drop the motor in. Very much looking forward to that. Then I am going to rewire the entire car with a AAW kit, and replace the old vacuum RS headlights with a DSE electric kit, get new head lights and running lights as well as rear taillights. All new Stewart Warner gauges will be installed as well. Everything electrical in the car will be in tip top shape.
 

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Ed great looking job you got going on there.The G bar is that From Frank at prodigy it looks like nice stuff. I don't think I would bother to weld ,it looks like plenty of bolts plus it will mess up your lizard skin...JMO... Are your doing tube control up front?

Hey you should reduce the size of your picks so you dont have to scroll to read your posts just a thought keep up the good work and keep us posted.
 

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Nice project you have going,looks great!
Good luck w/the rest of it, keep up the nice work.

Not sure if I would call badging w/Z-28 emblems a sleeper?
Maybe w/some 250 fender emblems, that would be a sleeper look to me.

MBHD
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ed great looking job you got going on there.The G bar is that From Frank at prodigy it looks like nice stuff.
Thanks for the compliment, yep rear suspension from Frank at Prodigy. Also going with Touring Classics rear disc brake kit as well.

Are your doing tube control up front?
Yep Global West uppers and lowers, with AFX Spindle and QA1s.



Nice project you have going,looks great!
Good luck w/the rest of it, keep up the nice work.

Not sure if I would call badging w/Z-28 emblems a sleeper?
Maybe w/some 250 fender emblems, that would be a sleeper look to me.
MBHD
Thanks, you might just have an idea...
 

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Ed what the hell did you do hit lotto or something, did this just happen over night or was it on the down low...... Look amazing...... I really enjoy the progress of your work, it gives us something to look forward to do down the road. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ed what the hell did you do hit lotto or something, did this just happen over night or was it on the down low...... Look amazing...... I really enjoy the progress of your work, it gives us something to look forward to do down the road. :thumbsup:
Thanks, I wish the lotto, just a very understanding wife :D But doing all the work myself has allowed me to do lot more since I only have to worry about part costs. Also working on my car at the garage at School gets me access to a lot more tools than I could afford as well letting me do even more.

I started working on the engine in April 2007 and the suspension around Dec 2007, so it has been taking awhile (what can do when you have to work full time and have a family). I am hoping to be on the road before this Thanksgiving, we will see.

Now if I could just win the lottery I could quit my job and do this full time :beers:
 

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Awesome build! However... not sure a 69 Z-28 can ever pull off the "sleeper" role. Maybe call it "project overkill"?
 

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Personally, I would skip the Z/28 badges. It's an actual RS, so why not put RS badges on it? You rarely see them. But, that's just one man's opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Personally, I would skip the Z/28 badges. It's an actual RS, so why not put RS badges on it? You rarely see them. But, that's just one man's opinion.

Yeah I have been thinking about the 250 emblems on the fender sides instead of the Z/28 emblems it has on it now (old owner put them on). Then I could claim well it is about 250ci per *bank* (489) ;)
 
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