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I have a 68 big block that has manual disc/drum (front disc was added, car was originally drum/drum) with an adjustable proportioning valve. I am adding the rear disc conversion along with power booster. I was told that with a disc/disc setup I may not need the proportioning valve since both front and rear will both be calipers (front dual piston, back single piston) and will be near equal in pressure required. I was thinking of trying it without the valve and add it only if I need it. Any help would be appreciated
 

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I think you are not getting the best advice. You don't want your rear disc's performing equal to the fronts. You want the bias towards the front so you don't lock up the rear before the front. You'll need less pressure to the back to achieve this. Use the adjustable prop valve to reduce pressure to the rear. If by some chance the difference in your dual and single piston calipers turn out to work together with equal pressure all you have to do is open the valve up all the way. If you don't build it in and need it you'll be cutting lines and, flairing and bleeding the lines a second time.
 

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disk/disk systems are generally "proportioned" by properly selecting the caliper bore sizes to balance the system without a valve. That said, since you don't have the manufacturers engineering resources and the valve is all ready there, keep it. Worst case, you open it ll the way it'll act like it wasn't there, best case it'll be there if you need to crank it up a lil to keep the backs from locking first.
 

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I put Master Power Brakes 4 wheel disk conversion on my car and the set comes without a proportioning valve. I believe that is great based on using "standard" size tires. I am running 245s on the front and 335s on the back and I think I am going to get a PV (haven't had the car on the road yet) because the dynamics have changed.
 
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