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Discussion Starter #1
Not one to just rest on my laurels of getting my fuel light to work....

I have a quartz movement clock that stopped working a few years ago.

I pulled out the housing and bench tested it. Hooked red wire to 12v and GND'ed the case. Nothing.
I also verified that the power wire that attaches to the gauge housing is good.

Brian mentioned it could need a cleaning in another thread... how does one clean a quartz movement?
 

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Well that looks like a mechanical housing not quartz. Here is a 1969 conversion set, I don't seem to see any conversions for 67-68 Tic-Toc-Tach
http://www.whitegauges.net/products/1969-Chevrolet-Camaro-Quartz-Conversion-Clock-Repair-Kit.html#

In theory you would remove the black nuts and pull off the top cover and then carefully gently blow out the dust and crap, then if you get it all then silicone spray to lube and put the cover on and test. Or take the whole unit to a watch/clock repair shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got the case open. There is definitely a quartz movement. Not to mention, I still have my original brass Borg movement as a desktop conversation piece.

Inside...it's as clean as a whistle...no dust, particles that I can make out.. The outer case was sealed pretty good.





 

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Okay power it up and bench test if it starts kicking, then you may have had a ground issue. If not the tuning fork like crystal maybe damaged, dislodged from its seat or dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bench tested it already. It's most likely dead. I spoke with a couple of the clock service shops this morning. They said the clock lasts approx 5-10 years if you run them full time. They also said they are not repairable...just replace with a new one. So...I got a good life out of this one.

Question is...is it worth it to have them do the replace of the movement? The only hard part I can see is soldering wires to the movement (on my application) for power and GND. I SUCK at soldering plain wiring...it will be even worse since the clock has a tiny working area to solder to.
 

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I believe the link I posted to the 68 replacement already comes with wire leads so all you would have to do is terminate them in your existing clocks plug. Call Classic in the morning and ask them to pull one from inventory and see if it is pre wired.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Where on earth are you located? (kinda enjoyed typing that) ;)

I've soldered in some pretty small places and would be happy to attempt it for you if you were close enough?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Where on earth are you located? (kinda enjoyed typing that) ;)

I've soldered in some pretty small places and would be happy to attempt it for you if you were close enough?
Totally appreciate the offer...but I live in the state of fruits and nuts (Cali) Would be a bit of a drive. :D

I'm going to bring it into the office...I'll get a lab tech to solder the wires for me. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Received my quartz movement from ISI on Monday... After cheating and having a lab tech solder my wires for me (3 minutes it took them...I'd still be there at midnight) I got around to installing it into the housing. Everything is VERY easy to do...EXCEPT...getting the 3 pronged dial plate nuts on. What a Beach... I'm surprised the movements don't break with the pressure needed to get those nuts to bite on the movement prongs. Miserable little bastages.

The new movement is working! Right now...I'm bench testing it for at least a day to see how it keeps time before installing it back in the gauge housing and finally back into the car.

If you have the mechanical know-how (and a little patience)...this is a very easy job.
 

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:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Dash gauge pod all reinstalled back in the car...everything working great.

Even though I never had a GND issue...I added the extra GND wire off the back of the gauge pod as most have done.
I also changed out the 4 illumination bulbs to LEDs and WoW...what a difference.
Realized my heater control display bulb was out...replaced that too.

I'm thinking of adding a hidden on/off switch to the clock 12v supply line. That way the clock doesn't run all the time the car is sitting and it will prolong the life of the movement. One of the clock rebuilding sites recommended using a battery shut off for this very reason...but I don't want one of those ugly things in my engine bay.
 

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You could just pull the lead off the fuse block when you put her up for the winter. I pull the battery for long storage.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You could just pull the lead off the fuse block when you put her up for the winter. I pull the battery for long storage.
What is the winter you speak of? ;) I am fortunate to live where i can drive my car all year long (except in the rain). The most it sits is two weeks usually.
 

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Lol yeah Here in New England we can drive until they use salt for the first time or the first snow whichever comes first.
 

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If you just want a working clock in the space that the original was in, I got a $2 battery clock from a hobby store and it fit right into the back of the plastic piece. You can reach up under the dash to change or remove the battery too. It works :)

 
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