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Discussion Starter #1
So.....hey guys.

I feel kinda like a dummy for needing to ask about this but I can't seem to keep coolant off the ground. I had a leak so I decided to change the lower hose and upper hose, plus they were old and needed replacement. I changed them and used some of those worm gear clamps, but I'm still getting leaks. What are you guys using? Am I placing them in the incorrect spots? Are they too tight?
 

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Some will bite my head off - pacecarjeff - :) for using worm style clamps myself, but the tower style OEM clamps - unless they are from him - always failed on me.

That aside I have to ask the obvious - these worm clamps are NEW (unused) right?
Reusing worm clamps is always a loosing dice roll as the clamps tend to get loose spots from use.
So replace with new or buy some tower clamps or the hog ring style.

I also find it important to make sure the radiator and water pump and thermostat elbow fitting surfaces are dry, and clean of surface debris and crud before sliding the hose over the fitting.

You can try to tighten the clamps you have for the moment but be careful they don't snap and loose all traction.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Some will bite my head off - pacecarjeff - :) for using worm style clamps myself, but the tower style OEM clamps - unless they are from him - always failed on me.

That aside I have to ask the obvious - these worm clamps are NEW (unused) right?
Reusing worm clamps is always a loosing dice roll as the clamps tend to get loose spots from use.
So replace with new or buy some tower clamps or the hog ring style.

I also find it important to make sure the radiator and water pump and thermostat elbow fitting surfaces are dry, and clean of surface debris and crud before sliding the hose over the fitting.

You can try to tighten the clamps you have for the moment but be careful they don't snap and loose all traction.
I am indeed using new worm gear clamps. I've hit that point where they break loose, so it's a tricky bridge to cross. I've also noticed that when I took off the cap to bleed the air out, the leaks stopped, so it's only happening under pressure. Should I get a diff cap to lower the pressure?
 

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No if the cap is rated at 15pounds it is correct.
I would inspect the hoses for any defects or scoring that may be allowing pressure release and therefore fluid.
Where are you seeing fluid?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No if the cap is rated at 15pounds it is correct.
I would inspect the hoses for any defects or scoring that may be allowing pressure release and therefor fluid.
Where are you seeing fluid?
The cap is indeed 15lbs and new. The radiator is a Griffin direct fit replacement and has been very good so far. The leaks are from the entry and exit, no where else. I tried to use a double clamp on the bottom side and it ended up leaking worse so I took it off.
 

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There is another thread on here about not over filling the radiator. Are you sure it is coming from the hoses, or being pushed out because over filled?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some will bite my head off - pacecarjeff - :) for using worm style clamps myself, but the tower style OEM clamps - unless they are from him - always failed on me.

That aside I have to ask the obvious - these worm clamps are NEW (unused) right?
Reusing worm clamps is always a loosing dice roll as the clamps tend to get loose spots from use.
So replace with new or buy some tower clamps or the hog ring style.

I also find it important to make sure the radiator and water pump and thermostat elbow fitting surfaces are dry, and clean of surface debris and crud before sliding the hose over the fitting.

You can try to tighten the clamps you have for the moment but be careful they don't snap and loose all traction.
There is another thread on here about not over filling the radiator. Are you sure it is coming from the hoses, or being pushed out because over filled?
No leaks from overflow. I have an overflow tank as well, so I'm 99% sure that's not it. I traced it to the bottom of the hose on both sides unfortunately.
 

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Those Tower clamps will bite a nice hole eventually in the hose. I had one that came loose on the water pump so I swapped it for the worm GM clamps from the good ol days from my stash. Ended up crushing the outlet pipe a bit. So I looked at both inlet/outlet pipes on the rad and the hose walls seemed too thin for me. I've had this rad since 1985, so I took it to the local rad shop and had new thicker walled inlet and outlets R&R'd. The worm clamps hold the hoses better now so since I'm using a new GM lower hose I bought in the 80's, it's getting worm clamps on both upper and lower rad hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Those Tower clamps will bite a nice hole eventually in the hose. I had one that came loose on the water pump so I swapped it for the worm GM clamps from the good ol days from my stash. Ended up crushing the outlet pipe a bit. So I looked at both inlet/outlet pipes on the rad and the hose walls seemed too thin for me. I've had this rad since 1985, so I took it to the local rad shop and had new thicker walled inlet and outlets R&R'd. The worm clamps hold the hoses better now so since I'm using a new GM lower hose I bought in the 80's, it's getting worm clamps on both upper and lower rad hoses.
So you say get some good quality worm clamps and call it a day huh? To be fair, I can say the Autozone ones I bought probably aren't a shining example of worm clamps.
 

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So you say get some good quality worm clamps and call it a day huh? To be fair, I can say the Autozone ones I bought probably aren't a shining example of worm clamps.
I'm using what GM used on the line, not China made crap you buy today. If the clamp is slipping out of the notches then it's junk. You need to find some real GM stuff from the late 70's to 80's.
 

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On my 68 Nova, I put on reproduction tower clamps and after I got them working right to pull evenly I still had one hose that had a very minor leak. I took the clamp off, cleaned the nipple that the hose slipped over, cleaned the inside of the hose end and reassembled it only to have it leak but just barely after a drive.
I then took the clamp and hose back off, cleaned them once again and then applied some Indian Head gasket shellac compound on the nipple and inside the hose, let it dry some, then slipped the hose back on, tightened the clamp and have yet to have any further leaks.
I can't say how it will be if I ever have to take the hose off, but the little bit of antifreeze weeping has quit and I'm happy.

Jim
 

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It may not be the look for you,but I'm giving these a try on my latest car.
Gates shrink clamps. On the radiator and heater hoses, My car isn't on the road yet, but it's been run to 190f multiple times for tuning. No leaks.

Gates 32934, Gates Power Grip Clamps | Gates


The sell them at Amazon, Zoro,grainger....

I can't stand old style hose clamps,worm or tower.
 

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It may not be the look for you,but I'm giving these a try on my latest car.
Gates shrink clamps. On the radiator and heater hoses, My car isn't on the road yet, but it's been run to 190f multiple times for tuning. No leaks.

Gates 32934, Gates Power Grip Clamps | Gates


The sell them at Amazon, Zoro,grainger....

I can't stand old style hose clamps,worm or tower.
No so good if you run into rad problems and need to replace the rad or hoses. Then you have to go buy another heat shrink clamp. Sounds like a PITA to me.
 

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No so good if you run into rad problems and need to replace the rad or hoses. Then you have to go buy another heat shrink clamp. Sounds like a PITA to me.
Yep, you need another clamp,I have half a dozen of each just incase.
But what's more concerning to me other than the $2.00 clamp is the $30.00 of distilled water,red line water wetter, and coolant you could use up if you have problems.

New hoses, good clamps like I posted, and a healthy cooling system.
Do it right the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I went out to the garage again this morning to try and remedy the problem after getting some high quality worm gear clamps and...NOPE. Still getting the weeping coolant. It's not enough to call the Pope about but I feel like this shouldn't be as big an issue as it has become. What's so hard about stopping coolant from leaking? I'm using worm gear clamps ALL over the car for other things (fuel filter, fuel lines, radiator overflow, etc) and there aren't any issues. I'm beginning to think the hose I got was bad? I'm really close to just taking to a shop.
 

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Are you sure you aren't chasing a leak from elsewhere that might be making it look like it's coming from the hose you're looking at? A water pump that's getting ready to go will start weeping and just barely start trickling out. Is the hose possibly compromised? Like you said, it shouldn't be hard. If you've taken the hose off, cleaned the hose connection and put new clamps on, there really isn't much left.
 

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I went out to the garage again this morning to try and remedy the problem after getting some high quality worm gear clamps and...NOPE. Still getting the weeping coolant. It's not enough to call the Pope about but I feel like this shouldn't be as big an issue as it has become. What's so hard about stopping coolant from leaking? I'm using worm gear clamps ALL over the car for other things (fuel filter, fuel lines, radiator overflow, etc) and there aren't any issues. I'm beginning to think the hose I got was bad? I'm really close to just taking to a shop.
Sounds like you have thin walled inlet/outlet pipes and the pipe may be distorted. That's what my problem was and I took my rad to a rad shop and had both inlet and outlet pipes welded with new pieces which have thicker walls. When I installed the hose, the clamp did not need as much clamping power compared to the old pipes.

When I talk about GM clamps, I'm talking about real GM TRIDON and WITTEK from the 70's, 80's, not repops from China. I've had these clamps from GM from the 70's-80-'s.

 

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Three things come to mind:
1- Is the upper goose neck surface that contacts the hose badly pitted? Maybe the clamps can't seal it if coolant can bypass the pitted surfaces.
2- Is the water pump weep hole wet? That is where coolant will seep from when the bearing seal is worn.
3- If you have a 3 core radiator, maybe an inner core is leaking and the air draws the coolant and gets flung onto the engine by the fan.

Mike
 
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