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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my radiator over flow fitting just below the cap busted off and now i have a round hole at the raditor, i tried everything i could think of but the piece is slightly heavy for any tthing to really hold it back on the radator so the line to the over flow tank can go back on.

called local parts stores and they say the fitting is weldd on piece of the radiator thus it would have to be welded back on or i would have to buy another radiator?

in the meantime when driving around will your water/coolant leak out at high rpm?s or onlky come out if full up to the hole below the cap? i dont want to over heat ..
 

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Just go down to your local parts store and buy some JB WELD... Mix the 2-part and clean the area, then put back together and let it set up for 24 hours. Or have someone just weld it back on. Its just an over flow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just go down to your local parts store and buy some JB WELD... Mix the 2-part and clean the area, then put back together and let it set up for 24 hours. Or have someone just weld it back on. Its just an over flow.
thanks i treid JB weld already wont work in this case as far as welding i think its in an area whereby the radiator would have to come out in order to get at her properly.

My question really is will the car over heat with just having the open hole under the cap?
 

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That's just the overflow tube. The cap seals the radiator below that tube. As the coolant heats, it expands. The radiator pukes out any fluid it doesn't want through that hole. They usually puke when the level is a little high, but once they find the sweet spot, not much comes out. Your car won't overheat because the tube is missing, but if it ever does purge fluid, it'll go under the hood instead of on the ground. I'd remove the radiator and take it to a rad shop and have it repaired - should be an easy job for them and not too much $$$.
 

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This is a $30 fix at most shops. You waisted that on gas and JB weld already. Fix it right the first time, You will always be happy in the long run. There has to be at lease 2000 Radiator shops in LA.

 

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This is a $30 fix at most shops. You waisted that on gas and JB weld already. Fix it right the first time, You will always be happy in the long run. There has to be at lease 2000 Radiator shops in LA.
Yep....If orginal brass everyting is soldered. JB will not work because of the higher expansion rate of the brass to the JB.
And if considering soldering yourseld..its done woth gas and solder alloy special to radiators.

For a temp fix so water doesnt overflow...full the radiator to the marks on the side.....and/or if want to get carried away. cut an old inner tube put over the cap, use a plastic tie around the base and a hose on the tube valve...no valve in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is a $30 fix at most shops. You waisted that on gas and JB weld already. Fix it right the first time, You will always be happy in the long run. There has to be at lease 2000 Radiator shops in LA.

Thanks your right. A new radiator will cost about $200 for a 3 row orderd from auto zone, with a 10% military discount with an active military id, to off set the tax, it isnt hard to take out yourself but the lines i have have fiuttings that i dont wantto tweak, i.e the radiator and transmission cooler lines etc, and im not 1 that has patience in regards to the brass fittings etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yep....If orginal brass everyting is soldered. JB will not work because of the higher expansion rate of the brass to the JB.
And if considering soldering yourseld..its done woth gas and solder alloy special to radiators.

For a temp fix so water doesnt overflow...full the radiator to the marks on the side.....and/or if want to get carried away. cut an old inner tube put over the cap, use a plastic tie around the base and a hose on the tube valve...no valve in it.
Yes i wasted almost 10 bucks on JB weld and your right there is no way in this case that jb weld will work, the hose idea seems pretty cool and you could run itto the groundso the coolant does stay underthe hood as suggested here, this will work as a good meantime fix until the radator comes in thanks..
 

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Not my idea...we where on a weekend hot rod club run yrs ago...1 of the guys had a real, and I mean REAL rough C cab he had thrown together with a odd ball radiator/cap that leaked....and no windscreen....we stopped at a tyre shop and thats what he did...worked a dream....knocked up over 1000 miles that weekend lol.
 

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Also JB weld lasts forever. Cash not wasted.
Also now is a good time to install an overflow return system. After the repair of course.
 
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