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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had to replace my old 100 watt Harrison radio with a CustomAutosound brand. Wattage is 200watt. I have single assembly of dual speakers in front (factory position) and dual 6x9 in rear. I figure I have 100 watts to front and 100 watts to rear but split between two speakers, can I say 50watts each?
My problem is, I am trying to determine if the positive and negative are hooked up to the correct + and - terminals on speakers. I don't seem to notice the differance if I cross wires.
Question: How do I determine which is which. Will a ohmeter tell me, my fluke? I seem to notice a differance in this radio. Maybe my speakers are gone. The don't appear to be torn or anything like that. They have a 20 oz. magnet on them and are three way from what I can tell. The old speakers are a Jensen 180wat 3 way. http://mobile-emotions.com/jenxs180watp.html
I am looking at a 300 watt, 4 way set up for rear only. Is this an overkill?

Another question, properly connected, which way is the large speaker cone suppose to move, towards the center or towards the magnet??

Any information would be appreciated. Got to get this ready for Powertour in June.
 

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Don't worry about the wattage thing. They are usually grossly optimistic and rated at a high distortion level. Just use good name brand speakers and you'll be fine. To determine the polarity if it's not marked on the speaker, connect an AA battery across it. If the cone deflects up toward you, it's connected to the correct +/- terminals on the battery. If it deflects away from you, it's backwards.
 

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I like Jim's AA battery test - that's what I use. If the polarity is not the same on both sides (either straight or reversed) you'll have phasing issues that make the music sound hollow with considerably less volume. So long as left and right move the same you're fine. Traditionally when positive excitation is applied, the cone moves out.
 

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Would not the easiest thing to do would be to check for continuity using your Fluke?

capt
 

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Would not the easiest thing to do would be to check for continuity using your Fluke?

capt
Perhaps the fluke will work. What you're looking for is a deflection of the coil. If it won't deflect on ohms, try the diode checker. The diode checker is a 1mA current source. Let us know if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Wow, after 63 reviews, only 4 that understood the question. Thanks. I did figure out with the fluke, what was what on power from radio , that was good. Found the 9 volt battery testing , this is good information. Got wires to work the cone deflection, into the basket. Turns out , I have some issues with the new radio, light "snow crackle " sound in the back ground, with motor not running, thru two sets of speakers and new filter box. I reinstalled the older radio and its fine. I will contact the radio vendor on this.
 

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Turns out , I have some issues with the new radio, light "snow crackle " sound in the back ground, with motor not running, thru two sets of speakers and new filter box. I reinstalled the older radio and its fine. I will contact the radio vendor on this.
It took me three head units (USA-6) from CAS to get one that was just ok.
I'll never waste my money on them again for head units. Their kick panels are pretty good though.
 

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It took me three head units (USA-6) from CAS to get one that was just ok.
I'll never waste my money on them again for head units. Their kick panels are pretty good though.
Thanks, I will remember this, I just shipped the USA2 back to CAS . See what they find.
 

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Don, Yes, you can say 50 watts each as long as you only have 4 connectors in the back.

I am real good with the wiring and can give you some tech stuff, but for all you none tech people listen up. Simplest way to do it.
Connect the speakers in pairs, just connect the wires for the 2 speakers. Example: Front speakers first.
Connect the wires. Listen to a song you really know and like.
Then take ONE speaker and switch the wires. Notice if it sounds better or worse. It sounds more muzzled when incorrect. Sometimes doing this you get to find out how bad your ears are. Switch several times until you are sure. Most of the time it is TOTALLY obvious. Roll all the windows up makes it easier also. If you know your ears suck, have one of your kids listen. It is much easier to tell if the speakers are facing each other, but not possible after you have mounted them already or if you buy the one unit, 2 speakers.
Now Mark where these wires go and disconnect.
Do the rear speakers the same way. Now mark and disconnect.
Now do the kick panels. When you have great sound, you do NOT need to disconnect. Hook them ALL up the way you just marked them. This always works, unless you have no ears and it's really easy.

Of course you will look really stupid with no ears, but keep your hair long!!! LOL That is a joke!!!

If you are good with wiring and you do hook up the wires the way we know how, we still do this test. But, sometimes the UNIT itself is wired wrong. If it is wired wrong, this will fix the problem (unless some weird internal problem.) All good stereo component installers will do this test at some point. It is full proof.

I could give a bunch of info that would make it so that if you disconnect it, it will be easy to put back together, but you would pull your hair out. (Then your ears would not be covered! LOL!)

All Above is the Polarity of the speakers or "Putting in Phase."
 
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