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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone.

I wanted to start a build thread. Mainly for advise and to start my progress on my car. I have owned the car for about a yr now. Reason why I am calling to project I paid to much is well because I did. I should of walked away but I did not. Car has a 6.0L LQ9 with a 4l60e. Crappy wiring and stock suspension. I have owned 4 Camaro's before. 3 3rd gen and one 4th gen. I always wanted a 69 since I was young. I am now 29. I have no welding experience but I am eager to learn. Just wish it wasn't this way. I pretty much stumbled into this tear town today. I went to pull out my back seats to find out my car smelled like mice. Well one thing lead to another and here I am. Entire interior out and discovered my worst fears. Not surprised though. Having flash backs from when I was debating to throw the car on the trailer or drive away. (13hr drive one way). I am honestly looking for advice, good or bad. I know I want to keep it drivable. I have read that many times from others, but the wiring and so much more needs to be addressed.









Trans tunnel
 

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Ray, that's not too bad really. They sell tunnel patches. This one happens to be from Camaro Specialties in east Aurora NY.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ray, that's not too bad really. They sell tunnel patches. This one happens to be from Camaro Specialties in east Aurora NY.
Im just worried now what might behind all that flat black paint. I have a dime size hole behind door on the rocker and both side of my outers have rust on the lip.
 

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Im just worried now what might behind all that flat black paint. I have a dime size hole behind door on the rocker and both side of my outers have rust on the lip.
I'm afraid that is another story. Take a refrigerator magnet and go over the entire car to see if it sticks. If it does not stick, that could be a problem area. I just went for a new floor, inner rockers and toe boards on my convertible.
 

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Ray I feel ya buddy, I did the EXACT same thing with mine ... drove 13 hours to Chicago and should have walked away but I didn't.
So far based on the pics the car doesn't look that bad, some guys here have found 2" of filler in their doors, so don't panic yet.

What I'd do with that car based off a limited budget and keep it a driver
#1. Replace the entire wiring harness with a AAW 69' Camaro Kit
#2. Go with a front/rear Hotchkis suspension kit with the 2/3" drop
#3. Decent set of disk brakes
#4. new carpet and a set of aftermarket seats

All this equates to a great fun/safe driver
If you need ANY advice we are all here to help you out, doesn't matter what it is

Cheers
Steve
 

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Ray,
Looks pretty good to me, I like the all black look too. You could drive it for awhile and work on it a bit at a time. Floors look a bit crusty, but no gaping holes. If they are still relatively sound you could clean them up, neutralize the rust and use POR-15. I'd say you did good! My car had some similar junk patch panels held on with sheetmetal screws. It's fun to get some sheet metal panels and form them to fit and weld them in, you'll enjoy the work. Once the welds are ground off and its painted, looks brand new. Get yourself a welder and you can learn pretty quickly by watching some internet videos and practicing. The new Miller 215 has MIG,stick AND TIG. I've got a 211, but it doesn't have the TIG capability and I wish it did. Just don't buy a cheap flux core welder, you won't be happy with the results. Looks like a great starting point.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks everyone for the replies. I Might just patch up the areas and use POR 15 on the problem areas. I always think things are more worse then they are. Should I just do half pans? then do my tunnel whenever that day comes for a t56?
 

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Can't be that bad if you have an LS motor in it, outside looks decent . Can't say much for floors, I have never had to do this on my car.
I see there are Texas plates on the car. Is that where you are or the car came from?
Any Idea what the car was before ? Cowl tag? Rear end or suspension?
 

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POR 15 targets the novice and those uneducated about the restoration business. It has no place in a professional restoration shop or hobbyist's garage. Rust must be removed by media blasting, or phosphoric acid treatment and a thorough neutralizing wash. Both methods followed by epoxy primer. If for some reason neither is possible, use a treatment like One-Step or Permatex Rust Treatment as a last resort; numerous companies make similar products. I would not use POR on a restoration if it was free.

Installing a full floor pan is easier than doing half floors. Sounds like your car needs a complete inspection to determine the best course of action. The pictures do not show if the front floors will be like a screen door after rust removal. You can build a mechanically sound driver with a half way decent, solid body if that is your goal. That is what we did when we were 16. You do not have to do a rotisserie restoration on every car.

20 years ago I drove 13 hours to buy a car. The seller thought because I drove all that way I would not go home with an empty trailer. He was wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Everything from the door forward was replaced. The quarters skins were replaced but not the outer wheel wells. Yes I drove to San Antonio to get the car. For the outers I will probably have a local do it. It is a decent car. Wiring could be replaced. I do want a t56. It has a 10 bolt rear. The car was a inline 6 car. frost green. Nothing special. Base camaro. I added brake booster and it has disk/drum. Interior I would say is average. I added 4th gen seats but I think im going to go a different route once I figure out the floor. I seen people who do 1 piece floors have to totally disassembly the car to do so. Not sure if I want to take it out of commission right now.
 

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Again, Sounds like you got much to do. With that motor and trans, needing outer wheel wells, this sounds like a tub job. Need a stronger rear end for sure. Moser musclepack narrowed could do the job .
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So for now, to keep it on the road for a little while I will go with Full length floor pans on both sides. I also want to get a trans tunnel. I know I will probably have to modify it to make room for the t56. I will see how bad the toe board is messed up on the driver side and post pics for better advice vs me just buying sheet metal I don't need. Thank you all . Have a Merry Christmas
 

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So for now, to keep it on the road for a little while I will go with Full length floor pans on both sides. I also want to get a trans tunnel. I know I will probably have to modify it to make room for the t56. I will see how bad the toe board is messed up on the driver side and post pics for better advice vs me just buying sheet metal I don't need. Thank you all . Have a Merry Christmas
As Scott mentioned above, do a full floor pan. You will have more time and money into patches and end up with something not nearly as nice. Based on what you currently have (including the tunnel issue), patches make no sense. i know this from experience. The full floor is actually easier and is only $280+ shipping:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/amd-400-3567/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/camaro

...Do it right, do it once.

Phil
 

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Would you guys do half panels or just do patches in the problem areas?
I was there 2 years ago. I decided on patches only because I eventually plan on doing a complete tear down and will do a full floor then.

Patches are easier because you.don't have to deal with taking the back window out and back in.

Mine have held up fine for 3 years. Get some POR, some good seam sealer, and some sound deadener and have at it. Not a permanent fix but it'll hold up for a good while.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Why would I have to take out my back window to do a full floor pan? The only way I can do a full floor pan is to remove the front of the car off and remove the subframe?
 

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Looking at it from my point of view I'd strongly consider selling the car. Cut your losses and move on to a better car.

You want a T56. You want a new rearend, you want a different interior. That's gonna be close to $10k

And you've seen you may have serious rust issues. Once you get into the body and rockers you could end up spending substantially on repairs. Unless you can do the work yourself you could easily dump $15k-$20k or more into body and paint.

As you stated it your post "I paid too much" don't start throwing more at it until you have all your ducks in a row and know exactly where you want to be when finished.
 
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