Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My rear driver side drum brake starts dragging after a couple dozen miles. I had all drums rebuilt plus new MC and booster back in December. Ever since I got the car back that one drum seems to drag and I do not know why. My shop says its because the e-brake cable is seized but i just don't see how that would effect it especially when I don't use the e-brake. Last time it happened I looked at it myself instead of bringing it to my shop and it seems like the entire assembly shifts out of place. The wheel cylinder doesn't seem to be leaking. Any thoughts of what it could be? I'm hesitant to take it back to my shop for the 5th time because they are adamant on charing me $500 to replace the e-brake cable but I just have this feeling that it isn't the problem. Unless I'm totally wrong of course. Also it seems to only be the driver side. The passenger rear seems to be fine. I 100% knew it was the driver side as it was smoking one day from only that wheel after driving and the car would shake violently while driving. Haven't driven it too much since reseting the shoes because I'm working on some other things but this friday I'm planning on putting some miles on it and seeing if it happens again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
153 Posts
Did the wheel cylinders get replaced during the brake rebuild? Possibly a defective wheel cylinder, obstruction in steel line to the wheel cylinder, or bad flexible (rubber) line from the rearend to the frame.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Did the wheel cylinders get replaced during the brake rebuild? Possibly a defective wheel cylinder, obstruction in steel line to the wheel cylinder, or bad flexible (rubber) line from the rearend to the frame.
The thing is I actually dont know. When I picked up the car they mentioned how 2 of the wheel cylinders looked "new" so they only replaced the 2 that were older/more worn out. Now I don't remember if it was the front or rears that had "new" looking wheel cylinders. I believe they put in all new brake fluid so wouldn't that take away the possibility of an obstruction in the line?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,308 Posts
If the parking brake cable is the issue there are a few things you can do. First thing is pll the drum off and make sure the shoes are touching the post at the top. If they touch all is good right now. If not see if the strut just below the wheel cylinder is movable or if it is in a bind. If it moves look at W/C, if not it's the brake cable. You can remove that strut to "fix" the issue until you replace the cable but the parking brake won't work.

Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If the parking brake cable is the issue there are a few things you can do. First thing is pll the drum off and make sure the shoes are touching the post at the top. If they touch all is good right now. If not see if the strut just below the wheel cylinder is movable or if it is in a bind. If it moves look at W/C, if not it's the brake cable. You can remove that strut to "fix" the issue until you replace the cable but the parking brake won't work.

Jeff
What do you mean by post at the top? Ill look at the strut tonight to see how it is. Should the strut move or not? Also I wouldn't care too much if the parking brake didn't work because it doesnt even work now anyways since the cable is seized on this side. Also I recall my mechanic saying that there was a piece missing from this drum when they first got. It could be this strut since it looks brand new. Maybe it wasn't there before because it was causing this issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,491 Posts
What do you mean by post at the top? Ill look at the strut tonight to see how it is. Should the strut move or not? Also I wouldn't care too much if the parking brake didn't work because it doesnt even work now anyways since the cable is seized on this side. Also I recall my mechanic saying that there was a piece missing from this drum when they first got. It could be this strut since it looks brand new. Maybe it wasn't there before because it was causing this issue?
I looked at your photo. If you compare this pic to yours

you will notice the top of your shoes aren't seated or centered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I looked at your photo. If you compare this pic to yours

you will notice the top of your shoes aren't seated or centered.
Yeah that was the other day when they were bad, I also pressed the brake pedal while the drum was off to understand how they worked. Right now they look similar to your picture but are still a bit higher up at the top. The curve of the shoe is flush with that curved raised area in the top middle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Here it is today, I took out that strut and everything went back together pretty easily. I checked the passenger rear and the strut on it looks old compared to the one on the driver side so I do believe this is the piece that was missing beforehand and possibly for a reason? Drove around for a bit and the braking seemed fine. Im not sure if removing that strut is "bad" or going to make my brakes fail I understand I can't use my e-brake but it has been useless so far anyways. Luckily I live in AZ so not a lot of hills to park on anyways. I'm going to go out again and put some miles on it to see if it starts dragging again. Also sorry for having to link to imgur the pictures are apparently too big to be posted here. Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,421 Posts
You can't leave that "strut out". Is it the same length as the old one on the other side?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You can't leave that "strut out". Is it the same length as the old one on the other side?
Yeah is there a reason as to why not? It isn't that I don't believe you but since I've taken that piece out I've driven 80 miles and the braking has seemed great. The drum hasn't started dragging either which definitely would've happened with that piece in it. I would get around 5-10 miles and then start experience brake drag.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,421 Posts
Factory put it there for a reason. If you look at yours and the example given, your spring is much more compressed. Personally I would replace all of the brake hardware, springs, retainers, spacer bar. Kits are available.
I went four wheel disc so I am just going by ancient memory.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,421 Posts
He is not using an e-brake. If it was needed for normal braking why isn't there one on the front drum brakes?
To be honest I really don't know, but brakes are kind of important. It was put there for some reason by the factory.

Hmm, six lugs. What is that?
 

·
Registered
Al - Waterloo, Iowa
Joined
·
4,310 Posts
Just replace the cable yourself. They only cost ~$15 and
it's not difficult. I sure wouldn't pay a shop $500 for the
job. Even with the strut (link) removed it is possible
the rear shoe is out of position due to the frozen cable
applying pressure on the actuator lever. I would replace
the cable on both sides if it was my car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
To be honest I really don't know, but brakes are kind of important. It was put there for some reason by the factory.

Hmm, six lugs. What is that?
Now that I better understand how drum brakes work and go together I'm going to replace the e-brake cables as Al suggested then put that piece back in. There may be another problem that causes this but as of right now with that piece out I haven't had drag issues. Also I've been driving the car for 4 years prior and apparently never had that strut in there anyways and never had issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just replace the cable yourself. They only cost ~$15 and
it's not difficult. I sure wouldn't pay a shop $500 for the
job. Even with the strut (link) removed it is possible
the rear shoe is out of position due to the frozen cable
applying pressure on the actuator lever. I would replace
the cable on both sides if it was my car.
I'm most likely going to go this route. At first I had not one clue on how drums work which is why I brought it to my shop. After messing around with this problem plus replacing the shoes on my Sentra I realize it really isn't that difficult I just needed to learn.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,308 Posts
Here it is today, I took out that strut and everything went back together pretty easily. I checked the passenger rear and the strut on it looks old compared to the one on the driver side so I do believe this is the piece that was missing beforehand and possibly for a reason? Drove around for a bit and the braking seemed fine. Im not sure if removing that strut is "bad" or going to make my brakes fail I understand I can't use my e-brake but it has been useless so far anyways. Luckily I live in AZ so not a lot of hills to park on anyways. I'm going to go out again and put some miles on it to see if it starts dragging again. Also sorry for having to link to imgur the pictures are apparently too big to be posted here. Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
In the second picture here the Shoes look like they are barely touching the top post ( where the springs are hooked) and the spring on the strut is compressed. That parking brake cable is your issue IMO.

You can't leave that "strut out". Is it the same length as the old one on the other side?
the reason the strut is there is to spread the shoes mechanically when the parking brake is applied, without the strut no parking brake. I've left out plenty until proper repairs can be made without incident.

Jeff
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top