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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

I've stripped the paint of my 67 Camaro and uncovered a world of issues. the most terrifying is the rear passenger side quarter panel. It seems clear to me that the car was in an accident (due to frame rail damage behind the quarter) and the quarter was replaced... poorly. After grinding through litteraly inches of bondo I found the welding. I'm not impressed and unfortunately not really educated enough to know the best way to proceed. I'm on a limited budget and do need to get this car back together before the budget I do have is forced on something else.

I was wondering if you guys think I need a new full quarter to rid the seams here or if it could be repaired (without inches of bondo) somehow. Sorry if the pictures are poor quality but it was dark outside and the car was close to the wall. The grey area is primer and the bare metal is where the seam is. You can see how much of a dip there is where they joined the "new" quarter to the original metal. Note that the seam is about 2 inches all the way down from the rear quarter glass running down parallel to the door jam. Not pretty.

Thanks for any advice you can provide.




IaN
 

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To repair the quarter correctly, I would replace with a full quarter. I have seen some really bad repairs, but that is the worst. I am sure I will see more just as bad in the future...
 

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I agree with Jess. If you don't replace the quarter I would not fill it with bondo. Use metal to metal as a filler. Then thin coat of fiberglass filler. What's the driver side look like?
 

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You can't put a quarter on a car that has rail damage if the rail and adjacent unibody structure need to be pulled. Pulls are done first, then panels replaced as per standard practice. Without a physical inspection as is required in this business, an accurate assessmant cannot be made. You are on a budget so you are already restricted. And All Metal, which is mainly a marketing ploy, is no better than Duraglass. There is nothing wrong with Duraglass when used properly. I've seen far worse repairs than that by masters of butchery.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies guys. I wish I could have taken some better pictures. It really goes down 2" from the door parallel to the jam and then back towards the wheel well about 6" from the rocker. I can't understand why they wouldn't have just done it properly in the door jam and had the full quarter with the sail panel area.

I am on a budget but I do have enough to buy a new full quarter and a new frame rail, assuming I can find it at a reasonable price here in Canada. If anyone knows a good seller in BC that would be great. Even a good US seller that I can order from and then drive over the border and pickup. My father in law has the tools to replace the parts so we will make it a summer project.

I already figured that the rail would need replacing first as I made a post about the rail a year or two ago. Just for fun, I'll post a pic of the rail damage here too. I looked into a right frame rail repair section, are they worth it? Or should I just get the full rail?

The driver side looks... better. It was replaced at one point but done with less of a screw up. The sail panel area was overlapped causing a large sunken area about 10" by 10" in size. I'm confident I can weld in a new piece of metal there or something. Any thoughts on that would be great too. I'm good with bondo but know enough that I won't waste my energy filling either of these quarters.

Here's some more pics and thanks again,


Might be hard to tell whats going on here, you can see a clear overlap from the top corner of the rear glass to the bottom of the chrome trim. Then the grey area is where the factory lead was used. The overlap is about the thickness of a dollar coin (haha, loonie to me).


The rail crack is just to the left of the top shock mount bolt. I'm amazed that the inspection center passed this thing when I brought it into Canada.

IaN
 

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Hi Ian, sorry to see a bondo wizard got hold of your car as well. Where in BC are you located? There are a few suppliers down south. If you use the search function not that far back there was a thread started by a gentleman planning a trip through Vancouver asking about suppliers that had a good list of them including the one I use Hot Rods and Classics, There really was not much to be saved by ordering through the states vs buying there at the time, or even on the few parts I have bought recently. The others are right though correct the under laying issues before you do the quarter repair.

Kevin.
 

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Hi Ian. Due to these being unibody cars, chances are very high you have
more damage than just the frame rail and quater panel. The trunk and tail
panel most likely are damaged also and because the other side quarter
was worked on suggests further damage. I highly suggest you take the
car to a professional for assessment. That way you can put together a
proper plan of attack. I'm sure you won't be happy with a hack job.
Good luck.
 

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Wow great replies. Funny that you mention Hot Rods and Classics as I live in Chilliwack and they are only 5 minutes away. The reason that I don't jump for joy with them is that I've found that they aren't that cheap, at least with the things that I've bought from them before. However they do sell good quality items, sometimes better than I've found anywhere else. I have always been a loyal Gasoline Alley (maple ridge) as they tend to beat Hot Rods by about 20% every time. I've sent an email to GA asking for their quote on the rail and quarter but wont see a reply till later today I'm sure.

As was mentioned above, I really don't want a hack job on this and I don't really like saying that I have a budget because a lot of people don't want to see someone cheap out and do a crappy job, especially on these classic camaros. My budget will allow me to to get the parts/materials I require but I will not be able to afford for professional labor. The greatest thing about my time, is that I have a lot to spare (I'm young) and it doesn't hurt the bank account to spend it. I have a willing father in law with the tools and old age know how, and then my internet skills, I can find a decent set of instructions with pics online and make it happen. However I do like the idea of having a pro look at it to ensure that there isn't more wrong. I may call around this week to see if I can convince some local to rip over here and take a peek for me. Perhaps I can shoot him some green to take 20 minutes to look under the car. This is how things work in my mind so we'll have to see how unrealistic it is. I just don't want to tow it somewhere or have to put it back together and get a permit to drive it 5 blocks.

Ian
 

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you sound like your well grounded and thinking things through so I'm sure in the end things will work out for you. I really can't speak to the price differences at other suppliers and in several cases I was more concerned with quality than cost so opted into AMD metal and payed more doing it. I do know HR&C stock a lot of what I wanted and Richard and the rest of the guys have treated me well and earned my business. However I would track down that other thread and get the full list of suppliers and call around some, it can't hurt. There are some other members in your area you may try to connect with that may be able to help out in one form or another with recommendations etc. Good luck and keep us posted.

Kevin.
 
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