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Discussion Starter #1
on my 71 im starting to get the dreaded clank clank in the rear on some bumps and my rear shackle bushings and front spring bushings look very tired. before i just jump in the deep end can you give me any tips on the following...
-what is the best kit available to do the job? i hear most dont like polly (squueeky sqeeky) compared to rubber so give me your opinion on that and what part supplier , price etc etc.
-what is the best order of dissassembly to do the job as ill be doing it alone.
-im going to get my springs reset as well as the rear seems to sit a bit too low for my liking also one side looks 1/2 inch lower to me. any tips when setting rear leafs?...sure im going to just get a shop to do that but feel free to comment.
regards shane
 

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Re: rear springs,bushings...please give me your tips

here is my installer tool. it worked like a charm ;)


make sure it has the full weight on the suspension (and bounce it a few times) before you tighten anything.

it is a pretty stright foward job. if you have a floor jack, some jackstands, and basic tools you can do it in your driveway. I did.

oh, I did have the fuel tank out to clean, paint and replace the sending unit. that extra room helped alot. but that comes out easy too.
 

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Re: rear springs,bushings...please give me your tips

I run Energy Suspensions poly rear bushings in my 68 and have no squeak issues at all. Just install them with plenty of grease and you should be fine. I used a 18" pair of channel locks to squeeze the new bushings in.
 

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Re: rear springs,bushings...please give me your tips

I just did this on my 69 this past weekend with poly bushings. I cut a piece of 3/8" allthread down to about 6.5" (you could use a full threaded bolt that long too, I just used what I had around), put a nut on each end with two large fender washers, and just screwed it down (with a gear wrench) until it pushed each bushing into place. With the gas tank in the way, it was the best idea I could come up with. It worked great too!!

Once you get the old bushings out (this is probably the hardest part on mine), try to clean the frame holes out really good. Grease up the holes with some wheel bearing grease too, that makes it a bit easier...

A.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for all your advice everyone. ... so i got all excited this afternoon ready to tackle the job. i went down the road and bought myself all the front and rear bushings in rubber. moog and Mcquay-norris parts to be exact. i jacked the car up on all 4 corners and to my suprise every nut and bolt i attempted to loosen in fact did loosen so i was happy about that. i was then thinking i could take drastic short cuts as my rear shackle bearings look pretty good ( see pic) so i was hoping to just remove the front 3 mounting pad bolts and it would lower enough that i could get the bolt out of the front spring eye bolt ( as that bush is stuffed SEE PIC )but no luck there- it does not lower at all to my dissapointment......looks like ill be following the sticky and out comes the tank and everything else for a complete job.

front spring bushing is stuffed



rear shackle bushings look pretty good to me. what do you think?



even the spring pad looked ok in my opinion. if only i could just replace the front bushing without pulling apart everything else :(


 

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If you just tried to unbolt/drop one side, then thats why it wouldn't drop far enough. You have to unbolt/drop BOTH front spring pockets. The rear bushings don't look that bad, but the rear spring eye is awfully close to the frame, but its probably the angle that the pic is taken that makes it look that way...
 

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We drop the fuel tank...
Support the diff on stands under the hoist.
Drop the whole diff, drop the springs off and press out in the hydrolic press and press the new ones in
DO NOT USE BEARING GREASE...this will eventually deteriate the rubbers, use brake grease or silicone.
replace the spring BACK ON the SAME sides they came off.

There is a thread about 6 months ago several pages that covers everyting in detail including the angle direction of the rear hangers.

If replacing bushes do the lot, including the pads and shock bushes dont skimp...do it once do it right
With new bushes in and dont do say the pads, the older rubbers tend to take greater loads and deterioate even faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks steptoe ...so i made some good progress today. dropped the tank, thought i might as well go the whole deal and drop the diff and springs all in one hit. wasn't too bad but hard for a one man job. now to get the springs reset and paint the diff and get some new fuel,vapour rubber lines , a few other bits and pieces and i even found my build sheet. i found out lots of things i didnt know it had once. ....vinyl roof,window tint etc etc.





 

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Yeah thats the adavantage of pulling the tank, diff etc right out
Overall makes the job far more pleasant and easier..even for 1 person
Cool news on the build sheet
Then can replace lines hoses etc..once thats done dont have to worry about that for another 15 or 20 yrs
Same goes for replacing all bushes
And can clean up the whole rear underside, seal the trunk floor from unferneath

Do it once do it right , less work, less worries.

JUST DO NOT mix up the rear springs as to which side they came off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i got started on cleaning the tank today. this job sux . will finish stripping it and the diff tomorrow . springs come back tomorrow as well so hopefully ill have it all back together by the weekend.... by the way i always thought the tank was steel????. but its so light it feels like aluminium.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
i got the springs back today. they are now 5 leafs and should raise me up an inch. ill paint them a nice black tomorrow. i got the diff scrubbed up and in primer. ill paint that a nice gloss black tomorrow as well. i even got keen and ordered a moser rear diff cover . so hopefully the next and final picture will be of it all back together in the next few days.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
is replacing this seal as easy as pulling off the nut, yolk and replacing the seal ?

and another question is what goes wrong if you get your left and right spring mixed up? ( not that i have ) but is it just a matter of one side possibly ending up higher/lower than the other. i was just curious cause i always had 1/2 inch drop on one side more than the other so now that my springs have been reset and hopefully adjusted for that height difference i wont have any trouble but if it ended up uneven can they be reversed if that could fix the problem?

 

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and another question is what goes wrong if you get your left and right spring mixed up?
In therory it doesnt matter
9 time out of 10 it doesnt matter
THEN there is that 1 time...you know Murphy?
I like Murphy...he doesnt keep me on my toes anymore..I listen to him before I do anything.
is replacing this seal as easy as pulling off the nut, yolk and replacing the seal ?
Never done one...I know that nut on the end has a heap of torque on it, and there is a colassable washer in there....And knowv you have to get it right other waise the diff gets noisey...and that is not quite as simple as it sounds...
That is why, wheel alignments and balancing and head liners, diffs are the few jobs I leave to the experts who do it everyday for the last 20 or 30 yrs.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
thanks steptoe.

if it was just a case of removing parts and replacing worn bushes etc this job would be a breeze but i tell ya cleaning, painting,inspecting,fixing takes foorrevvverrrrr . but almost done now. paint on the gas tank is drying now as i write this and all i have to do really is put the tank back in , install the brakes , bleed them and do up shocks and i think im done. speaking of the tank it had seriously half an inch of goo under it. some kind of sealer/bog and it was a pain the butt to get off. cant wait for the moser diff cover to arrive and then ill go lay two big black ones down at my sneaky test spot.







 

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Discussion Starter #17
im sick of it but i can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. i finished the tank and just coated the straps in primer till i get them chromed.

 

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I feel ya.

I've had mine up on the stands for almost 3 weeks now doing the same thing (mono to 3-leaf swap). I had to grind off 3 of the 6 bolts holding the front housings because the J-nuts broke. I had to sawzall one of the rear shackle bolts to get it out, and had to remove the tank to do so. Saw that the lock ring was bent and not sealed properly on my tank, so ordering new sending unit, lock ring, etc.
Every step has been more than expected, but yet that IS expected. :)

I hope to start re-assembly by this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
this all sounds very familiar to me DVINNY. i was lucky and only had 1 jnut break but that was bad enough. i bough all 6 new ones cause i didnt trust re-using the originals. lucky nothing else was seized but some things took full fury to loosen. my tank locking nut also looks a little beat up but i think i can save it.
 
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