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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is this what they look like?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8615888&cc=1321232&jsn=510

I didn't know they had cable type regulators....assuming the pics are correct representations...often pics and or description are not accurate


Right now rear window only cranks down about 3" then stops. Feels very tight to crank

P.O. pulled handles and put caps over the crank splines so I assume he had issues with the rear windows

Before I pull panel and look was wondering if the rockauto.com unit is what they are

this is one from NPD

https://www.npdlink.com/product/reg...%2Bregulator&top_parent=7&year=1967&year=1967
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Is this what they look like?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8615888&cc=1321232&jsn=510

I didn't know they had cable type regulators....assuming the pics are correct representations


Right now rear window only cranks down about 3" then stops. Feels very tight to crank

P.O. pulled handles and put caps over the crank splines so I assume he had issues with the rear windows

Before I pull panel and look was wondering if the rockauto.com unit is what they are
I am not sure where the reference to cables are coming from but these are correct. They are for power windows but they essentially look the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
on the RA link if you click the arrow on pic it goes to a cable part that looks typical of power window type. It's a manual crank window.

My sense, without seeing the regulator yet, is the NPD pic is right
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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on the RA link if you click the arrow on pic it goes to a cable part that looks typical of power window type. It's a manual crank window.

My sense, without seeing the regulator yet, is the NPD pic is right
Yes, the manual one is a correct representation. When you said cable I was thinking of something else but it was the power wire you were referring to.

I just went through these for my 69 so very familiar with the manual versions. I don't know this for sure but either you have a bent track which is binding the window roller and preventing it from going down or a broken spring which is locking up the mechanism itself. I would take the rear panel off and take a close look before purchasing anything.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know this for sure but either you have a bent track which is binding the window roller and preventing it from going down or a broken spring which is locking up the mechanism itself. I would take the rear panel off and take a close look before purchasing anything.

Good luck
yeah I will pull panel first and look. Was just getting a idea of costs if I need to buy a regulator...and who has the better $ on the part

I suspect the coil spring broke. It will crank down initially and then stop before it would normally then pivot forward and down

By "cable" (steel cable, not electrical) I meant the 2nd pic on the RA link shows what a typical power window one looks like. I suspect it is just a FU listing and the first pic showing the manual crank one is correct. It looks like the one on NPD site
 

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Those regulators don't usually go bad. I would suspect you have a roller that is bad. The bottom ones commonly break. Like stated before, look before you buy a regulator that you don't need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Anyone have a link or diagram/illustration of the rear window track/regulator assembly?

Is any part of the mechanism attached to the outer rear 1/4 panel?

I have the Chassis Service Manual...but don't see anything about windows in it

I did find this thread, which is helpful, but was looking for something that shows the illustration of the parts "inside" the car

https://www.camaros.net/forums/23-i...-window-installation-procedures-dale8346.html
 

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Tim - The Northwest 1969 Camaro
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the links, I did have those bookmarked if I needed them.

I would like to find diagram/illustration of how the parts are placed inside the rear 1/4. Not seeing anything for windows in Chassis Manual

Have heard a "lower" roller is common to break and wanted to see where it is located.
 

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Google “scared shiftless” on YouTube. Everything you need to know
 

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You need an assembly Manuel. I took mine out, cleaned it up, lubricated the track and rollers. It only rolled half way then I had to push it down before. I did replace $5 roller. Re installed the way it came out and it works like new. First time with no diagrams just reverse the way it is taken out, not rocket science. Take some pics while still in the car.
 

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I just put my 1/4 window regulators and tracks back in after cleaning them up and re-lubricating them. Before, they would only roll halfway up and stop. I would have to yank and wiggle them while cranking at the same time to get them up.

After cleaning and re-lubing, they go up butter smooth now. The only thing I replaced was the bottom roller on the window because I broke the old one trying get it off the old glass.

Here a couple of photos of mine and a scan from the 1968 Fisher Body Manual.

Dave





 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Got the door panels pulled for rear 1/4's. It's a fold down rear seat so the "armrests" like on the convertible's are part of the door panels. PS was just frozen so a little back & forth with window crank, WD 40, lithium grease and all is good on that side. I need to buy the C channel seal that goes over the forward edge of the glass the chrome/rubber trim piece attaches to so it stays on

The DS...the middle lower roller had come unscrewed so I was able to find the pieces inside the body and get back on. Not sure if the part that threads onto the roller post will stay. It seems the threaded axle the roller is on turns so no real way of getting it tight.

?, how do you get this roller into the center channel of track it rolls on?

Not seeing a wider part top or bottom of that track it would fit through...unless I have to take all the regulator, window, etc out and work on the glass on the bench and use thread lock or something

the lower roller in this pic



This appears to be the center lower roller

https://www.npdlink.com/product/rol...egulator-incl-glass-cushions/109292?year=1967

Also there were chunks of what look to be old very hard rubber or some form of body assembly sealant in the bottom of the body. Some of the chunks look to be formed as a "channel" the glass rode in but I am not seeing this type of channel inside the body

Was this just excess body sealer that the window did track through but later just broke off?





 

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The DS...the middle lower roller had come unscrewed so I was able to find the pieces inside the body and get back on. Not sure if the part that threads onto the roller post will stay. It seems the threaded axle the roller is on turns so no real way of getting it tight.
I don't know why you can't tighten the lower center roller assembly. I tightened up mine with no problem. Mine was a new assembly though.

?, how do you get this roller into the center channel of track it rolls on? Not seeing a wider part top or bottom of that track it would fit through
There's no wider part of the track that makes getting the lower center roller in easier. You just have to maneuver the window into the opening and get all three rollers on the track. It takes a little finagling. Watch the Scared Shiftless videos on YouTube that Vega 69 mentioned. It will help.


 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I don't know why you can't tighten the lower center roller assembly. I tightened up mine with no problem. Mine was a new assembly though.

]
Thanks for the videos.

It's the lower roller itself, not the assembly, that I would like to tighten more than it is it just spins the threaded shaft of the roller.

The 2 parts of the roller I found inside the 1/4 panel are a 1"-1 1/4" circular end cap washer with a threaded center. Then a plastic washer the same size that has a protruded hub that goes into the lower hole in glass. I can screw on the threaded end cap, sandwiching the plastic washer to glass, but then the shaft of the roller spins instead of being able to cinch it down. If the end of this roller "axle" was slotted I could use a screw driver to hold it.

I have it all back together and window works fine but IDK if this end cap will spin off again

The rear windows had caps over crank splines so I assumed "something" was FU (when lower roller came off) with them as PO took cranks off and caped them

I can get a new re-pop roller at NPD tomorrow.
 

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There should be five individual pieces in that lower center roller assembly. See the attached picture.

Do you have the metal washer with the rectangular slot in the center?

The threaded stud on your roller should have rectangular head on it that fits into the rectangular slot on that metal washer which locks them together. If you put pressure on the metal washer while you are tightening things up, that should keep the threaded roller stud from turning.

 

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You are in pretty deep into the window. You have the side panel removed. I would take the whole assembly out and clean it. The 50 year old grease is dirty. The parts could be rusty. The bottom roller has to be tightened to the window. There is a special tool you can buy to tighten the roller. I made my own out of a piece of steel and two roll pins. The top two rollers are just as old as the bottom roller. There is a spring on one of the top roller that may be broken. The torque on the glass fasteners is only six foot-pounds. I used lithium grease on the rollers. Chain grease was used on the sector gear mechanism and coiled spring.



This is a photo of how the assembly goes together.



P.S. You write with a lot of acronyms. I have a hard time understanding the sentences. I don't own a cell phone so I have a hard time with texting writing. Please help an old man out who refuses to live in the 21st century.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the pics tp

Surprisingly the mechanism is not rusty which mirrors everything else on this car. It has lived a dry life. The PO put plugs over window crank spline so the rear windows never moved for what appears to have been many years.

I have cleaned the track, rollers and large tooth gear and put lithium grease on. I may use some red wheel bearing grease as it is very sticky and adheres better than the lithium

The part I screwed back on the roller was the backing threaded large black flat, with curved edge, washer that is in top center right of your 1st pic. If it tightens to 6 ft lbs...I have that. With the plastic washer sandwiched between it and glass I do not see or feel that back threaded piece turning when I crank window up/down. The roller itself is the only thing the spins

I see how the bottom roller goes into the slot of track from up top. If I need to install a new roller I see how it goes in

This has been a project I have wanted to get to and thought the worse case would be I need new everything but it turns out just the one roller and one window gasket that fits between leading edge of glass and metal/rubber window seal. Cleaning and lubing everything else and the windows go up/down easily
 
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