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Discussion Starter #1
I pulled my powerglide for a 700r4 on my 67. I installed a TV cable and have made sure every angle was right on and have set it to spec. Fluid level is on full when car is running and up to temp. I bypassed my radiator and I'm running a seperate cooler for the trans.

This is my problem.

The shift from 1st to 2nd is really quick. 2nd to 3rd takes a really long time and I have to feather the gas to get it to shift into 3rd. I have tried pulling the TV housing towards the carb to get it to shift from 2nd the 3rd sooner. This works, but I have gotten a couple of slips from 1st to 2nd. So I went back to the original TV setup.
I thought I might have a stuck governor, but I have full motion. The car runs well if I have a really light foot.

please help
I don't want to burn this thing up.

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Stock 67 327 RS
www.angelfire.com/ca7/goatjjcamarors/index.html
 

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Any chance the car it came out of had different rear-end gears than your car does? Might need to make a govenor adjustment if so.

-dnult
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have 3.08's. The tranny is a 27spine.
I didn't know rear end ratios effect shift timing.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by goatjj:
I have 3.08's. The tranny is a 27spine.
I didn't know rear end ratios effect shift timing.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The govenor and throttle pressure both control shift timing. The govenor is set by the revolutions of the output shaft. If your rear end ratio is lower than what the vehicle came from, you would experience late shifts.

There is a list as long as my arm under the topic "no 2-3 upshift, 2-3 shift slipping or hunting". Many have to do with the govenor binding or improper fit in the transmission case. Several possibilities for valve body problems with check balls and valves. And then there is the possibility of burned plates. Did you make certain to get the torque converter fully seated in the pump before tightening the bell housing bolts. Converter or front pump damage is also listed as a possible contributor. I've seen a half dozen or more cases of not getting the converter fully seated (2 clunks).

It don't take long to foul the oil if the plates are burned. Have you gave it the sniff test and looked to see if the fluid was dark? No RTV on the pan gasket I hope.


-dnult
 

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I ran accross this bit of information today that sounds similar to your problem.

"Sometimes on a newly rebuilt 700R4 or 200-4R transmission, it may not make the 3-4 shift when first installed. A stuck valve, trash in the fluid or an air pocket, usually causes this. Raise the rear wheels off the ground, place the transmission in overdrive position. Run the speedometer as high as 100 miles per hour, pop the throttle on and off and see if you can force a 3-4 shift. Once it makes the first 3-4 shift, work the shift lever back and forth between drive and overdrive until the 3-4 shift works correctly."

I found this at http://www.transmissioncenter.net/ There is also some information regarding the TV cable geometry that I'm going to use on my 700R4 / holley setup. Hope this helps.

-dnult
 

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Sounds like the same problem I had.If you dont have the TV cable adjusted just right it will never shift right.You also may burn up the pump.For complete directions on setting the TV cable look at the March 2002 issue of Chevy High Performance.Page 108.I did like the article and my 700R4 works perfect.You can also get the same directions at www.chevyhiperformance.com under "tech articles"......article called "TV time".
 

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to adjust the tv cable you push the button for adjusting the tv cable and push it all the way in and then push it again and then turn the throttle all the way open while not running and the throttle will pull the cable out where it needs to be.
 

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To adjust the TV Cable skip the book method and do this: Press the 'D' shaped lock button on the adjuster and loosen the cable setting (The black housing that the metal cable is in will move forward). Now, have someone floor the gas pedal while you check to see if the throttle plate is open all the way. Usually they are off a little and will wiggle. Do whatever you have to do to get it open solid. Now, with the pedal still floored, press the 'D' button and pull the cable casing (the black tube) back as hard as you can (putting maximum tension on the metal cable) and release the button. You now have the engine, tranny and gas pedal all in sync at WOT. Mark the cable casing so if for some reason it gets moved you can know where to put it again. The problem with the 'self adjust method' is that it bends things and puts them permanently out of whack. It is also the full TV setting, which is theoretically what the GM method does.


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For direct tranny questions: E-mail with subject "tranny problems"
 

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Guys, Im having a similar problem with my 83 Z28.I switched a 200 c 3 speed for a 700R4. The 200c ran off a TV cable so everything was already there. My problem is it shifts from 1st to second too soon. It shifts good,just too soon. I have the TV cable adjusted towards the fire wall as far as it will slide. One of you was talking about a governor adjustment?? I have a 3.42 in my car. The tranny came from a 93 Caprice,cop car so the rearend could be different. Could someone explain to me where this governor adjust is and how it works,or any other suggestions ?? Thanks Bob.
 

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If anyone has problems.....try these guys.www.700R4.com.I bought all the parts for my recent 700r4 swap.They make awsome crossmembers and TV cable kits.These guys are kinda the gods of 700r4's on the west coast.People there are very helpfull weather you bought their parts or not.
 
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