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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was installing my harmonic balancer with an installation tool consiting of a threaded rod, thrust bearing and clamp nut when the threaded rod broke off in the crank. I removed the balancer and need a recommendation for removal of the broken stud...

Drill, easy out, tap???
 

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Ouch!! I would recommend drilling out with a left hand bit and if that doesn't back it out then try an easy out. Be sure to drill as close to the center as possible.
As for your inst. tool, make sure next one is hardened.
 

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I've had success with a flat tip screwdriver before, as long as it didn't snap off clean across. If there's a raised lump on it, the screwdriver should be able to engage it, and spin right out.
 

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As Darren said, even if it broke off clean, you should be able to get a sharp screwdricer/punch and unscrew the bad thread out, then after that, the stud should unscrew with ease.
 

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I got mine out with a Sears screw extractor. Those tools they advertised for removing rounded off Philips head screws as it has hardened carbide teeth that dig into the metal and spin it right out without even attempting to drill it.

I too broke my cheesy Chinese made installation tool on first use that I bought from Jeg's for $24 bucks. Will look for a professional tool for my next motor.


Larger Dave
 

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Just curious, when you threaded the installation tool into the crankshaft snout, did you bottom the threads out? I've always ran the threads all the way in untill it stops, then back the tool out 1.5 turns then procede with pressing the balancer on. Always make sure there are no burrs in the key slot and use anti-seize on the crank snout. I haven't broke a tool so far doing this. I know it's probably coming though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I threaded the tool until it bottomed out and then backed it off off about two turns. I cleaned the crank snout with scotch brite and lubed it with motor oil prior to installation. I also de-burred the the keyway slot on the balancer to improve the installation as well.
 

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Problem with deburring is that SCAT and Eagle have a bad habit of making the snout undersized to begin with. (Mic first debur latter). The balancer-damper is supposed to be a 0.005" interference fit (that is why production engines often do not come with the balancer bolt bored and tapped the way HiPerf engines do).


Larger Dave
 
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