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Discussion Starter #1
In the near future I'm going to have to remove my oil pan to weld in some bungs. I did some searches and didnt find much on in the car. The headers will be out at this piont. From what I read I need to ...
-Remove dist
-disconnect rad hoses
-remove motor mounts
-remove trans bolts at crossmember
-remove dist
-Jack engine from front of pan with a large flat piece of wood.
-stick a piece of 2x4 between the motor mounts
-turn the engine over to 5:00 oclock so the pan can side out and the crank won't be in the way.



Does this sound right? How did you do it?
 

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Clutch linkage will need to be unbolted and exhaust and radiator fan or shroud may not have to be unbolted depending upon clearance. Other than that you have it about right just be careful, really careful so the motor doesn't slip on the 2x4's.

If you can get a picker to lift the motor from the top you'll be better off and wont have the 2x4's in the way down at the mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Clutch linkage will need to be unbolted and exhaust and radiator fan or shroud may not have to be unbolted depending upon clearance. Other than that you have it about right just be careful, really careful so the motor doesn't slip on the 2x4's.

If you can get a picker to lift the motor from the top you'll be better off and wont have the 2x4's in the way down at the mounts.
Thanks. It's an auto, no linkage. Headers will be out already and I have no shroud/electric fans. I'd like to get a picker in there, but my garage is small and would have no room to work. Sounds good thanks.
 

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You don't remove the motor mounts. You jack the engine up so you can unbolt the thru bolt but leave the motor mounts attached to the block. The 2X4 pieces go between the motor mount and the frame stand. Lower the engine so it rests on the 4" side of the 2X4 piece. I've done this multiple times. It works. You don't have to unbolt the tranny mount either. Instead loosen up the blots so the engine will pivot on it.

You should get the factory manuals as they have this (as well as other procedures) illustrated with the correct sequence. I've found them indispensible when working on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You don't remove the motor mounts. You jack the engine up so you can unbolt the thru bolt but leave the motor mounts attached to the block. The 2X4 pieces go between the motor mount and the frame stand. Lower the engine so it rests on the 4" side of the 2X4 piece. I've done this multiple times. It works. You don't have to unbolt the tranny mount either. Instead loosen up the blots so the engine will pivot on it.

You should get the factory manuals as they have this (as well as other procedures) illustrated with the correct sequence. I've found them indispensible when working on the car.

Thanks. Thats what I meant, the bolt. If I remove the dist cap is that enough to clear? I have a MSD pro billet small cap.
 

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If your car is rear-steer, knocking the center link off the pitman and idler arms give you a little more room as well.
 

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Looking at the to do list, I don't recall needing to disconnect the radiator hoses. I used a large 1/2" drive socket instead of a 2x4 between the mounts and stands. Also slid the bolt back through the stands just for some extra insurance.
 

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Man I did a Morso deep pan on my car easy. Dropped headers. Removed distributor. Took out engine mount bolts. Then Got an engine hoist connected it to the head bolts and jacked it up an inch. I removed trans cross member bolts from the frame so it slide in the grooves but was supported.

It should clear if you remove the distributor cap and are worried about timing. If its a stock pan you probably wont even have to disconnect trans cross member. The 2x4 approach is good but I recommend pushing it out of the garage for a few hours and using a picker. Took me 2 hours on a deep pan.
 
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