[Rich-Allen]

My project really smoothed out last night and everything was going great until I got to the center link pitman arm connection.
Either mine is really stuck or they need to be pressed on which I don't think is the case.
Any recommendations how to get them apart?


Thanks.

Rich

 

[JimM]

usually a ball joint sized pickle fork will pop them. The joint is a tapered stud just like the tie rod ends. They usually are not replaced so that on has been there for 40 years, could take some persuading.

Last resort if you don't care about wrecking it, support the center link in the open jaws of your vise with the pitman hanging free, and beat it out of there with a ford tool.

 

[tgifford5]

Use a pickle fork as Jim said. And they can be borrowed from most auto parts stores instead of buying one. I have just done my front end on my 69 with all new suspension parts. I don't know if spraying it down with PB Blaster and letting it soak will help or not.

 

[Rich-Allen]

I beat on it last night for 10 minutes and it didn't pop free.

I was thinking maybe a pneumatic fork but wanted to get some input before turning loose on it after work.



Rich

 

[nashcar]

Have you tried heating it with a torch?

 

[68zz502fi]

you should NOT use or need a torch to remove the pitman arm from the center link, I strongly recomend against heating your centerlink.:noway:

it is ok to use a penumatic (air hammer) with a pickel fork attachment for removal tho. just make sure the opening on the fork is the correct size and you have the pitman to centerlink hardware removed.. obviously. it may take some time as stated earlier, it's been on there for around 40 years.:thumbsup:

 

[68zproject]

I borrowed one from an auto parts store that had two hooks to go around edge of arm and a screw to tighten on the end of stud and it pulls it off. Took about three turns and it was loose. I don't know if you have auto zone but they rent for free.

 

[pdq67]

Or put it in a big vice wedged in so that the link is supported on both sides of it and use the vice's screw to put pressure on the joint's stud and whack the jaw w/ a 3 pound Ford tool as you continue to turn the screw!!

It should pop right out, imho...

pdq67

 

[Rich-Allen]

Got the arms separated :thumbsup: Thanks everyone. (took 3 seconds, I bought a rod puller).

Now I can't get the damn rag joint on the new steering box!!!!!!
I almost threw the whole unit out the window.

I'm on Dave Pozzi website and he has a small article on how it looks after installed but no information as to how to get it on.
One problem is they painted the inside of the rag joint and the shaft of the steering box.

Any advice for this one would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rich

 

[pdq67]

You just need to clean it off b/c it should slide on just one way on both ends!!

You will see what I mean....... Maybe have to spread both ends just a schosh using a cold chisel peined easy through the slots?????

pdq67

 

[Brentmc]

It should just slide on once you clean off the paint and align the joint with the flat spot on the steering shaft.

If the rag joint is too small maybe they tightened the pinch bolt and you need spread the joint back open.

 

[RamAirDave]

just make sure.... you have the pitman to centerlink hardware removed...

Funny you mention that, because I did that the other day (idler arm, though) breaking down a subframe. Backing the nut off was no problem, moved on to the pitman arm nut, and forgot to completely remove the idler castle nut before coming back to it and seperating it with a pickle fork :clonk:

Of course, that leads to everyone's favorite.... the spinning ball joint

 

[JimM]

A: The splined input shaft and the ragjoint have a flat, they only go on in one orientation.

B: (this one caought me for a while when I did mine) The locking bolt for the ragjoint fits INTO the groove in the steering shaft, you have to completely remove the bolt to get the ragjoint on.

 

[Rich-Allen]

The steering unit and rag joint are both brand new. I figured out instantly that the bolt fit along the flat spot however it doesnt want to go on.
I cleaned the paint off and same thing.
I did notice that when they cut the flat spot inside the rag joint they didnt do a very good job and it has a slight hump.

I plan on taking a die grinder and smoothing out the holer tomorrow morning and i will try it again when I get home from work.

If that dont work I will ask them to send me another rag joint.


Thanks for all the input,
I would have never attempted all this without you guys.

Rich

 

[RamAirDave]

A: The splined input shaft and the ragjoint have a flat, they only go on in one orientation.

True for a PS box, but the manual steering box shafts can spline the ragjoint in any orientation. I always make sure to cut a small groove into the end of the shaft to mark the correct orientation.

 

[68zproject]

True for a PS box, but the manual steering box shafts can spline the ragjoint in any orientation.

I was going to say mine doesn't have a flat spot. OK, apples and oranges?

 

[RamAirDave]

I was going to say mine doesn't have a flat spot. OK, apples and oranges?

Yep, from what I know. Last car I did was a manual steering Z, and noticed no flat spot (or any kind of orientation mark). Just today, actually, restored another Z manual box. Marked it first, then tried the rag in different positions. Seemed to spline up fine in different orientations.

I didnt try every single position, but it will slip on one tooth off from where it was originally, if that says anything. I'll experiment with it more tomorrow.