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Discussion Starter #1
Im switching to C5 brakes. I have the reproduction master cylinder on my car now that I got from CPP, its made by just brakes. Can anyone tell my what size the bore is? Im told I need 1" to 1 1/8". Can I get one that looks the same? Part numbers? I prefer stock looking parts whenever possible. Thank for any help.

Pic
 

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What are you running now for front/rear brakes now (that will help determine what MC you have)? Do you have drum or disc in the rear? BTW, the pic you posted was the front brake caliper pic. Would try and post a picture of the current MC.

Now, if you are still going with power brakes (assuming from your signature pics), you will need a 1 inch bore MC for the C5 fronts. What are your plans for the rear (staying with what you have or upgrading to discs)?
 

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The difference betwen the 1" and 1 1/8" you would never know unless swaping from one to the other and driving just nbefore and just after.
The bigger bore the pedal moves a tiny amount less between start of presuuew on brakes to full hard on....and requires a tiny little more pressure

The small bore a tiny amount of less pressure and the distance moved slightly more.
All this bigg bore small bore for drums dics 4 wheel discs etc has been hiped up by marketing propaganda BS and desktop theroists that have no idea how a basic hydrolic system works or the basics of displancement volumes and surface area ratios.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
At the moment I have the Corvette brakes up front and the stock drums in the back. I bought a Wilwood proportioning valve to balance them out. I plan to change out the rear brakes, but I figure if the axels have to come out I might as well get some new ones.

Im going to give the brakes a test with this master cylinder in place. I think its a 7/8 bore. I was mistaken, its made by right stuff brakes. When I change out the rear brakes will this MC still work?

 

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7/8 to to little volume for power brakes. Will make for a REALLY soft mushy pedal.

Factory style brake systems are designed for high volume and power assist. so that is what you need. 1 1/8 is best.

There are 1 1/8 stock looking masters, but without removing yours and measuring the bore, there is no way to know for sire what you have.
 

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I think its a 7/8 bore.
yeah I agree now you are pushing things..
They will still work fine, but will be getting to the limit of the stroke to move enough fluid to full actuate the brakes to full lock up...be touch and go.
you will have a longer distance between start of pads on disc to full lock, and very little effort which gives the feel of being mushy, and if they do not fully lock...they will be mushy.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After checking the Right Stuff Brakes website I was convinced this is a 1-1/8 master cylinder part number DBMC11. I took it for a test drive and the brakes do feel mushy with a longer throw. Hardly confidence inspiring, Its clear I have more work to do. I bled the brakes using a one man bleader kit from Harbor Frieght. Could this be the problem?

 

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Could this be the problem?
yes it could...all the diference is a slight longer movenent (or put another way, better light pedel feel) betyween start of pads grip and piont of which they are hard on.
I have said this before..it is a very sad situation where a person cant grab a neighber, the wife, on of the children ot the postman...or the old lady walking hers dog down the street to pump a pedal for 10 mins.
If pedal down. hold / close/ pedal up doesnt work..there is something wrong and no fancy bleeders will fix what is wrong inside the system.

A final check on brakes after bleeding...sure have a good pedal right
now push down hard, hold for 1/2 min...let up on the pedeal a smiggin, not right off, hold then hard down again...if it goes a couple mm lowers....you have fade...something wrong.
 
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