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On 1967 w 327 engine, can you replace the oil pan without major effort or does it get involved? what is required?

thanks
Joe
 

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from what I've read, you have to turn the crank to a certain position to get the front counterweights clear so it will slide out, don't recall the position, but a search would find it or someone who knows will chime in soon.
 

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Below is from an email I sent to another TC'er

This is my experience with the '69. (twice). It's been discussed many times before but please add any tips you may have.
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Rotate engine timing mark to around 5:00 a clock. This will put the crank in the best position for the pan to come off.

Loosen fan shroud so it can move around with the fan as the engine is raised.

Remove distributor or perhaps just the cap, it depends on how much clearence you have.
I had to remove my right side header because I have A/C.

In general just look for any linkage or hoses that might get in a bind as the engine is raised, I didn't have any other issues but some guys have.

Below

Remove starter.

Mine's an auto so I didn't have any clutch or shifter linkage issues.

Remove the bolt on each side that hold motor mount to frame stands.

I loosened the trans mount bolts but didn't remove them, not sure if this was really needed.

Depending on your exhaust system you may or may not have to loosen it.

You can use a bottle jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to raise the engine or an engine hoist, the hoist would be better as the pan would really be stressed. The engine will need to be raised about 2 to 2& 1/2 inches. The trickey and dangerous part is keeping the engine raised while you work. I placed large sockets between the motor mount and frame stand and let the engine down on them. Then I placed the bolts back through the frame stands just for extra insurance. Some guys have used blocks of wood to do the same thing.

At this point you're ready to remove the pan, of course drain oil first.

In general be careful and watch for problems as you slowly raise the engine. Also keep in mind that the car will raise before the engine begins to move, so if you use a bottle jack make sure it has enough travel.
 

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I had to do this once on my car with the 350 and a friends Nova with a 327. I believe I ran #1 to TDC. On mine I was by myself and just used the bottle jack and blocks method. (crude but effective) on the Nova we did the same thing but we used a cherry picker instead of a jack. LOTS EASIER! :thumbsup: In both cases we just pulled the distributor cap and didn't loosen the trans. Neither of us have A/C so I can't tell you if there's issues there or not. In both cases we unbolted the exhaust from the headers and raised it up about 1-1 1/2"to clear the crossmember. With the cherry picker we got it done in about an hour start to finish. By myself the first time it took me just under 2 hrs. Lots of :angry: on that one.
 
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