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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 67 with a 72 350 in it. I am running a promaster coil, Mallory 57 series Breakerless Magnetic Dist and a stock engine harness from M&H (those guys rock)

My question is should I be running the stock resistor wire or should I replace it with a straight 12v connection. I think Mallory suggests using a ballast resistor. I am having issues with a rich condition on my Edelbrock 1405 and I am wondering if the coil voltage is contributing to it. BTW I am NOT running the yellow temp power lead from the starter, it takes a bit of cranking when it has not run for a few days but if I start it within the same day it seems to fire up pretty quick.

Thanks for any info you guys can share.

Bill
 

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Bill,
I think you use straight 12 volts with the Mallory unit. To be certain I would look on thier web site, they have all of the wiring diagrams and instructions there if I remember correctly.
 

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Only a points style distributor required a resistor wire to extend points life. All others want 12 volts or better.

Larger Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Only a points style distributor required a resistor wire to extend points life. All others want 12 volts or better.

Larger Dave

Thats what I thought but the manual says:
"NOTE: The purpose of resistance wire between the ignition switch (12V) and the
ignition coil positive terminal is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil.
Failure to use resistance wire will eventually destroy the Ignition Module.
EXCEPTION: If your vehicle is equipped with a HYFIRE® Electronic Ignition Control or
similar aftermarket ignition control, use the wiring procedures stated in the instructions
included with the ignition control."

I am just using the Promaster coil and the dist..

Bill
 

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Use the ballast resister! I helped a friend put a Comp 9000 Mallory in his car. The module fried out in 10 minutes. Turns out he bypassed the stock resistance wire planning on an HEI distributor and got this one instead. The instructions say use one.
 

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I think you will find that the "bit of cranking after" is due to the Edlebrock carb rather than the voltage. All of the Edlebrock's that I have owned have had this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ya I know now that it requires some type or lower voltage but I wonder how much. I am getting 3.2 volts when I read it at the coil with the key on (motor not running) and 4.6 when I check at the hot side of the coil and ground it to the block.
 
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