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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Starting a fresh thread so it doesn’t get confusing with all the questions I asked about other “discoveries” and installation support requests along the way working on front suspension. Appreciate everyone who chimed in to help on the other threads; it made a world of difference having a support team.

These photos are AFTER I completed installing new Eaton coil springs (MC-1266 stock height), and with new Eaton 4-leaf springs (ML-9183 standard duty +1 as recommended by Eaton). Also installed new KYB Excel-G rear shocks & Koni 1135 front shocks.

Does this stance look like what you’d expect? To me it’s low in front & high in back.

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood

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I think the front looks good where it’s at, and the back would look better if it matched the front. I prefer to see cars sit level- even stance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think the front looks good where it’s at, and the back would look better if it matched the front. I prefer to see cars sit level- even stance.
These are new leaf springs; so I don’t guess they’ll “settle” any. Is it best to get longer shackles or use lowering blocks? How much lower do you think?
 

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Rear is high. Leafs won't settle much if any, unfortunately (they just sag after many years of use). Did you tighten the bushings with weight of the cars on the rear springs (resting on tires or axle supported)? You could install up to 1" lowering blocks (use steel rather than aluminum if you can find them), but I wouldn't go more.

For the front, it's low for stock height. Coils can settle after initial installation. I've seen vehicles drop as nearly an inch after a week of daily use (I'm not talking just a visual observation, I've actually verified with measurements).
 

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I would check the specs in the AIM. But if you’re happy with the way it looks, that’s all that matters. But since you asked, the rear looks about 2-3 inches too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Front looks good to me but the back is high. Looks like you got the +1" which is the spring you ordered.
When I called Eaton to order leaf springs; I didn't know what the car needed, so I emailed a photo of what it looked like with the worn out mono-leaf springs & air shocks by PO. Eaton recommended the 4-leaf "+1"; I had no idea it would do this to rear end. I trusted their judgement because with the old monos, tires were hitting wheel well.

Similarly, when I called Eaton to order coil springs, I didn't know what the car needed; and they asked for long list of things like engine size, modifications, etc to estimate weight, for which I gave them a very accurate list by email, including photos. Eaton recommended the "stock" coils.

I suppose the front is ok; although I expected it to raise a little from the worn out springs. But the back just doesn't look right.

I'm "stuck" now, and from what you guys are saying, it sounds like I need to install lowering blocks to get it to a better stance. I have no idea what's involved to do that; for example do I need to pull differential out & remove shackles/etc?

Wish I'd consulted TC before placing order for the leaf springs.
 

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FbodyMike asked "Did you tighten the bushings with weight of the car on the rear springs (resting on tires or axle supported)?" This is very important to follow. If the shackles are tightened with the rear axle in droop, a bind can be created, causing the rear to sit too high. At this point I would loosen the shackle bolts and take the car for a drive to see if it comes down any. Then tighten the shackle bolts. Installing blocks does not require removal of the differential. You may need longer u-bolts though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
FbodyMike asked "Did you tighten the bushings with weight of the car on the rear springs (resting on tires or axle supported)?" This is very important to follow. If the shackles are tightened with the rear axle in droop, a bind can be created, causing the rear to sit too high. At this point I would loosen the shackle bolts and take the car for a drive to see if it comes down any. Then tighten the shackle bolts. Installing blocks does not require removal of the differential. You may need longer u-bolts though.
We did it with car on ground, all 4 wheels on. It's not terrible to loosen those bolts, so I'll do that just to see. Make sure I got it right, "drive with the bolts loose, then retighten?"
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When you switched from mono to multi-leaf springs, did you change the leaf spring perches? This may not be contributing to the lift, but might be a problem if you try to add a lowering block.
we didn't change the welded on perches on original 10-bolt differential; I did buy new multi-leaf shock plate
 

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68 Base Camaro 355 Offy crossram Richmond Super Street close ratio 5 spd ivy gold 92K SoCal car
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When I did mine before installing shocks and with shackle bolts loose bounced the car repeatedly, it will bounce a lot more and no need to drive with loose hardware. Then tighten up and install shocks.
 

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68 Base Camaro 355 Offy crossram Richmond Super Street close ratio 5 spd ivy gold 92K SoCal car
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Probably know this already but mono leaf plates have a p brake cable support riveted to the pass side plate. Multi leafs plate ship without one. Can buy seperately and mounts to one of the U bolt studs below plate. I bought a pair for $20 from Inline Tube. Not worth trying to remove old one from mono plate, different design anyway. I installed on drivers side too although not necessary.
Tool Automotive exterior Font Auto part Bumper
 
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