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Recently went the route of full roller setup cam, lifters and rockers. I was warned that it would be a little noisier which it is especially at certain RPM's. Is there a break in period then a re-adjustment or do you just get use to it?

Thanks
 

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I have a full solid roller set up and after the break in and 4-pulls on the dyno they checked/re-adjusted the lash.
 

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Just adjust the Tappets like you would for a Flat Tappet Hydraulic. Best to do it with the engine Idling. Back the adjuster nut off until you hear it clack and tighten 1/8 - 1/4 or 1/2 turn. I prefer 1/8th turn because if you have a problem with the valve train you will hear it sooner. You can cut the top of an Old Valve Cover to contain the Oil Splash.

An old Circle Track Trick with a Hydraulic FT Cam was to collapse the lifter onto the cam lobe with the engine idling using a .010" feeler gauge on top of the valve stem - it was good for another 500 rpm ;o)

With any FT Designed Engine that is Roller Retro fitted (Unless the lifter Bores have been Bored True) you require a STRONG Anti-Cam-Walk Device and which locks the cam within .006" to .012" travel - DO NOT - depend on them Stupid Treflon Buttons against the Stock Timing Cover and I suggest you Stack Impregnated Wear Plate (Back Lash) Washers rather then using the Torrington Bearing design.

Drilling a 1mm Hole through the Front PSGR Oil Gallery Plug will oil the timing chain and another through the Face of the Front Cam Boss behind the Wear Plate into the cam bearing oil gallery and drill through the plates.

I also suggest you use a verily Hi-ZDDP content Oil to protect the Needle Bearing of the Lifter Rollers as a Retrofit Engine does apply significant torsional forces on the Needles if the Bores have not been trued as evident by Cam Walk.

I run a SR 460 BBC with a Donovan Cam Gear Drive, daily on the street.
 
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