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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I will keep this as short as possible.

Specs:
1968 camaro
painless 18 circuit

was hooked up originally with old school ext reg alternator but did not have enough juice to keep fans ect going. everything worked just not enough amperage

fast forward....... rewire car for cs 130 from the safari

here are the connections
(reminder this is a painless harness that the company refuses to give you the diagrams but the tech rep said that the alternator exciter wire was in line with the dummy light

xciter wire connecter to L on cs130
S on connector connected to a junction maxblade 70 amp fuse that has all power routed through it ( this is fed from the starter via 8 guage on one side and dash power, s connection wire, and bat term post from alternator on the other side)

also another wire from the painless harness is routed to the alternator bat post this wire goes to the main fuse panel . I have followed these diagrams exactly aside from running the s wire to the main power maxifuse instead of a short jumper (10 guage) wire goes from alt to maxifuse on firewall.


ok thats the specs

gen light did not come on when in run position but comes on in acc

I removed the alternator and took it to have it checked and instant fail on advanced auto parts machine........

I have gone over these schematics and message boards and post for hours and still haven't scene where i wired this up wrong. Hopefully someone sees something I dont

So my question.... did I wire this wrong and fry the alternators internal regulator or was it just bad luck and got a bad unit.

Thanks
 

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Hey Simon, take this as some advice. I worked on a 1991 Honda Civic about 1 year ago for a charging problem. I put 6 alternators on before I got one that would charge. All units were either reman or new out of the box. Thankfully customer was understanding of the situation...So yes it is possible you started out with a bad alternator.
 

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It looks like you have it wired right at least for the alternator to work. I dont use a gen light. I use a volt guage to watch the voltage.

Here is how I wire my cars and I only use the painless 18 circuit kit because mine are mostly custom wiring.

I use one of these from McMaster Carr # 9365T3
http://www.mcmaster.com/#terminal-blocks/=ftgroq

You want the alternator to sense the load from your electrical system.

I use the big terminal block to connect all loads.

I run a #6 from the battery to this terminal block.( center post )
I run a #8 from the alternator to this terminal block. ( center post )
I run a #10 ( painless feed ) to this terminal block. I still use there fuse block.
If I have any other loads that the Painless kit does not have I run to this terminal block.
Ie: fans, fuel pump

This way all the load is at the big terminal block and the alternator will sense the load.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So i check the resistance of the connector that I got from the parts store and it has no resistance. so the question is ...does painless have the bulb wired in with the #914 exciter wire to show resistance. The voltage shows 12.8 at the bat lug, 12.8 at the s wire and 12.8 at the exciter wire. My forehead is getting huge from banging it up against this wall........

On a side note. Painless could do us all a favor and make there manuals a little more descriptive ...They need to update these books cause the references to their diagrams don't match...
 

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The wire going to the GEN light should show some resistance in its path.
You can measure this resistance by disconnecting the battery positive clamp and measure from the clamp through the ign sw in IGN position and to the end of the CS 'L' wire. You should measure the resistance of the bulb.

This 'L' wire needs some resistance, up to maybe 100 ohms.
If you have a GEN light with ign sw in ACC, there should be a GEN light with ign sw in IGN.

You started with an external reg'd alt.
Have you jumpered the ext VR connector? Jumper the two inside wires together and jumper the two outside wires together.
Brown wire from dash/light to now alt blue wire is GEN light.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That's why I am confused .....it is wired that way and still no light......light does work when in acc position
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes... 12.56.....with key in run position.....haven't started car to check if it charges while running..don't want to fry another one..
 

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In my experience (for our cars), the CS130 is fragile, even if properly wired.

I went through 3 CS130s in short order before embracing the 12SI.

I like the concept of the CS130; small, light with modern voltage sensing and charging, but they have fragile electronics.

EVEN if you get everything wired properly with the CS130, if the battery is in too low a charge, the unit will burn itself out trying to bring the battery up to charge. The CS130 is not a durable alternator like the DN or SI series. My last CS130 was an Iceburg, but it too failed in short order.

Ditch the CS and fit a high amp 12SI and you will never look back.
 

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In my experience (for our cars), the CS130 is fragile, even if properly wired.

I went through 3 CS130s in short order before embracing the 12SI.

I like the concept of the CS130; small, light with modern voltage sensing and charging, but they have fragile electronics.

EVEN if you get everything wired properly with the CS130, if the battery is in too low a charge, the unit will burn itself out trying to bring the battery up to charge. The CS130 is not a durable alternator like the DN or SI series. My last CS130 was an Iceburg, but it too failed in short order.

Ditch the CS and fit a high amp 12SI and you will never look back.
Mike,

That is good info to have. I also use the 12SI alternators.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok talked to painless today and this is what I learned....yes the bulb is wired in series....no the is no resistor parralell to it so if the bulb goes it all goes..... Thirdly the 914 wire goes into the fuse panel and connects to the light and splits off and connects to the ignition switch........I pulled the switch to measure current on this wire and I get 12 volts. So next step is either drop the column and pull the gauges to check there or install a resistor and not use the light.....pain in the Asda for a dummy light...will let you know how it goes
 
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