Scattershield install
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Pull driveshaft (plug rear main shaft opening on transmission)
Pull shifter (and anything needed to get to the shifter)
Disconnect wiring/speedomter cable to transmission
Pull transmission
Pull clutch linkage to extent necessary
Pull old bellhousing
If installing motor plate (and why wouldn't you?), pull clutch/flywheel
Install new scattershield - check alignment
Correct alignment of scattershield following manufacturer's instructions
Install motorplate, flywheel, clutch (align clutch), scattershield, clutch linkage, transmission, shifter and driveshaft.
This is a rough list, as you didn't specify the model or year of car. You may also need to drop the exhaust system, remove a header or do other things to get adquate room to work.
Not too bad with a lift; tough job laying on your back!
You're a better man than I am if you can install a scattershield with the motor in the car. If I rememer correctly, there are about 20-30 bolts. Mine is so tight with the firewall I couldn't possibly do it with the motor in the car. I agree with Christopher, pulling the motor is the only way to go. IMO. Mike. :beers: :beers:
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One word: lift. Did it with the engine in the car on the lift.
In fact, installed scattershield, checked alignment, removed scattershield, adjusted block dowels, reinstalled scattershield, checked alignment, removed scattershield, adjusted block dowels, reinstalled scattershield, checked alignment, removed scattershield, adjusted block dowels, reinstalled scattershield, checked alignment, removed flywheel, installed block plate, installed flywheel, etc.
I was using the old style Lakewood alignment dowels with the big screwdriver slot in the head, which slot was absolutely incapable of moving the dowel while installed in the block - so I actually left out the part about driving the alignment dowels into and out of the block each time they were adjusted. The new block dowels that are a slip fit until the center screw is tightened should make this a much easier job.
My statement was "if I remember correctly", obviously I didn't remember correctly, there are only 18. Please refer to page 197 of the new Summit catalogue for a picture. And thanks for correcting me. Mike.
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Seven (IIRC) in the block and then the bolts for the block plate.
Step one open hood and remove dizzy cap, or it will get broken. Then do all of the above noted work.
And Ya, at least 18 nuts and bolts on one with a block plate. Did mine in the car more than once, getting ready to do it again (new clutch time) ---Bill.
And Ya, at least 18 nuts and bolts on one with a block plate. Did mine in the car more than once, getting ready to do it again (new clutch time) ---Bill.
Having just gone through this with a McLeod:
The motor needs to be tipped back to get the bellhousing over the pressure plate. Do yourself a favor and install all the bolts while it's tipped back. It's so much easier. Wish I had!
On the McLeod I, and others, have had to grind clearance in the upper flange for the throttle bracket and rod on the firewall.
The motor needs to be tipped back to get the bellhousing over the pressure plate. Do yourself a favor and install all the bolts while it's tipped back. It's so much easier. Wish I had!
On the McLeod I, and others, have had to grind clearance in the upper flange for the throttle bracket and rod on the firewall.
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Before installing the shield onto the engine, measure the stock height inside the b/housing of the fork ball stud and adjust the new stud to this height.
I'd go from the block mating surface to the top of the stud. add high-temp grease to the stud and install the fork.
I'd go from the block mating surface to the top of the stud. add high-temp grease to the stud and install the fork.
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