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Discussion Starter #1
It is time for new seats. I will go with the PUI covers. I have the seats with the molded in wire. Do I need seat back springs also? I will get new foam. How do I know if I need bottom springs. The side springs are broken. The seat bottom springs are ok. Very minor rust if at all. In fact the seat frames have pratically no rust. :confused: Thanks,
Gary
 

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Hey Gary, If your foam has the springs in it (upper back of the bucket seat) you don't need springs (you need the foam with the springs molded in). I've heard this is rare to have a seat with molded in springs (back only on a 69') but most of the threads I've read here it's very common. Of course the molded springs in the foam costs more.
The side springs can be bought seperately which is what I did.
I used the PUI covers and they were very good.
I sand blasted the frames and even welded a couple of the joints that didn't look good, then painted them.
I think I used about 150 hog rings just on the front seats so make sure you get enough.
I also used some very thin plastic garbage can linners to cover the foam which makes slipping the covers much easier.
I can tell you this, recovering seats is a lot harder than it looks, a real PIA. If you take your time they will come out good and your fingers are going to hurt.
I did have to trim the plastic lip sewed on to the seat cover that locks the seat cover to the seat bottom because it was too wide and no way would it fit in the groove.
Good Luck with them.
I wanted to add, I had to move my rear view mirror up to see out the back when I finished so it does make a big difference with new springs & foam.
 

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Drew hit on most of the things that you will encounter when you do your own seats. I replaced all the fine wire and the burlap over the springs. You can get the wire at a hardware store and the burlap at a fabric store. Clean the gunk out of the tracks and then regrease them just before you re-install them.
 

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So if you buy the new seat foams that they sell, do they have the springs molded in them? I need to redo my seats and need to figure out what to order. I figured ordering new seat foams, side springs and PUI covers.
I thought the seat springs went under the foam? Is this correct? :confused:
 

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Originally posted by Jonesy:
So if you buy the new seat foams that they sell, do they have the springs molded in them? I need to redo my seats and need to figure out what to order. I figured ordering new seat foams, side springs and PUI covers.
I thought the seat springs went under the foam? Is this correct? :confused:
Jonesy, They sell the foam buns both ways. You can remove the plastic cover on the upright (back) of your bucket seat and see which style of frame you have. Some 69's had springs on the frame itself (maybe early built cars ?), some had wire reinforcement in the foam bun itself and no springs on the frame. This only applies to the upright portion of the seat, the seat bottoms are just foam with springs on the frame either way. If you check a restoration catalog I think it will show you what I'm trying to explain.
 

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Thanks Drew. I'll check and see what I have. That way I can relate more to how the seats are constructed and what I need to do. I will probably have more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is the passenger seat the only one that has the cable to keep the seat back from going too far forward? The one I have only has the cable attached to seat back arm. Where does the other end go?
 

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Gary, I saw that cable your talking about in the Fisher Body Manual. I believe it goes under the hinge arm cover to each pivot point and may only go on the passenger side. I guess the steering wheel keeps the driver's seat from going too far forward. For some reason my car didn't have that/those cable(s) and it's a late build Sept. 69', the car is all original so I doubt the seats were ever taken apart. I didn't really worry about it as I don't expect people to be riding in the back seat. Perhaps it was dropped later in the build year?
I can check the FBM if you don't have one and post what I find later. Someone else may chime in here if they know the story behind this cable and it's application.
 

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I have a late 69 car, also, and I do not have the cable. I wish it did, as my seat hits the dash.

Gary,
With the first class resto you are doing, my advice would be to buy new seat bottom springs. Those springs are almost always broken--especially the side bolsters. If yours are not, they will be. If your luck is like mine, it would break the first time you sat in it after getting it back from the upholsterer.
Also, even if the foams look good, I'd replace them.

When you take the seats apart, you will find burlap with little wires running through it. My upholsterer said they were not necessary, so I did not insert wires in the new burlap. I wish I had. I'm not sure what the purpose is, but the General wouldn't have done it if it were not necessary. You can get piano wire from a hobby shop, and weave the wire before giving the seats to your upholsterer.

I also took the time to wire brush and paint everything. (The back seat was a trip! 10% on the springs, 90% on the dirt floor of my crawl space--aka my paint booth) I know it lasted 35 years without paint, but why let it rust again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ureal: I did order the seat springs with the covers and buns. I saw your earlier post and said the same thing: don't chance it. The side springs are already broken. I will have an upholstery shop install the covers.The passenger seat is original upholstery. The car is 02D so maybe only the earlier cars had the cable.

Also your tip on cutting the carpet for the seat rails was right on. My carpet job looks great. The tip (by someone else) on using the soldering iron was also very helpful.


drew: I have the Fisher body manual and can check it. I have found that manual to be less help than the Assembly manual.

Thanks for all the answers!

Gary
 
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