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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done a search on this and came up with some good pointers.

I read where the Hurst rods on a Muncie tranny have to be in neutral before hooking them to the shifter. I am able to move the rods (without shifter hooked up) to neutral but not the shorter reverse rod. It doesn't seem to move into anything. Am I doing something wrong?

The 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th rods put into three positions each so I set them in the middle spot. The other moves but now very far and doesn't click. Help?
 

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Been awhile since I looked at my shifter linkage but your right. You should pin the shifter mechanism with a nail to hold neutral position when adjusting the shifting rods. One common mistake, and I've done it, is to bolt the shifting bell arms on the tranny pointing down rather then up. You end up with 2nd gear where 1st should be and 4th gear where 3rd should be. I believe the reverse bell crank has to be pointing down.
 

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:thumbsup: your reverse rod may not move all the way cause need to move car or drive shaft little bit reverse not syncronized causing it not to go all the way into reverse.and yes front 2 up and back 1 down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not sure what you mean by front 2 up and back 1 down.

I set the front two in the middle position, which was the middle click on both rods. Is that right?

I have the rear of the car on ramps and the front on jack stands. Anyway to move the reverse level in that spot?
 

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Each of the two levers (1-2 and 3-4) should be in their center detent positions, and the end of the transmission shift levers where the linkage rods connect for 1-2 and for 3-4 should point UP, and the reverse lever should point DOWN; see photo below. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I believe mine looks like that picture. So pretty much it's just a matter of getting my reverse lever to move at this point.

I have a bit through the shifter holes in place. Both 1/2 and 3/4 rods are in neutral but I can't move the reverse rod at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay, I think I'm almost there. I was able to turn the driveshaft and move the reverse lever. Now for the embarassing questions (first timer): Is there a neutral spot on that lever? Do I want it in reverse? If I want it in reverse, do I push the rod toward the motor or pull it to the rear?

Please bare with me on this. Thanks.
 

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The shifter will automatically keep itself in neutral and not jump to 1st or 2nd unless you shift or accidentally hit it. It will not shift to 3rd or 4th unless you use some pressure to move the shifter handle toward the Psgr Side. It will never accidentally get into reverse as you must actually slap the shifter toward yourself to pass through the lockout detent and move the shifter forward = a KLUNK :eek:))

Let me CONGRATULATE you as you now have one of the finest GM Transmissions ever built. Someday after many enjoyable solid shifts or a few blown clutches you may have to take 20 minutes to pull your Muncie and another 20 minutes to dissemble it. And perhaps finish off the whole case of beer while you rebuild it on the kitchen table - but that Muncie will probably out live both of us - lol
 

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The shifter will automatically keep itself in neutral and not jump to 1st or 2nd unless you shift or accidentally hit it. It will not shift to 3rd or 4th unless you use some pressure to move the shifter handle toward the Psgr Side. It will never accidentally get into reverse as you must actually slap the shifter toward yourself to pass through the lockout detent and move the shifter forward = a KLUNK :eek:))

Let me CONGRATULATE you as you now have one of the finest GM Transmissions ever built. Someday after many enjoyable solid shifts or a few blown clutches you may have to take 20 minutes to pull your Muncie and another 20 minutes to dissemble it. And perhaps finish off the whole case of beer while you rebuild it on the kitchen table - but that Muncie will probably out live both of us - lol
You're a slacker!....It only takes me 15 to 18 minutes to yank my Muncie!....And roughly 2 hours to polish off a whole case of Miller High Life!:beers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, thanks for all the advice on this deal. Turning the driveshaft worked to get the tranny in neutral. What I found was my 1/2 rod was rubbing against the 3/4 rod. So taking the rod off and pulling out a hammer helped line it up.

Everything works. Now I just have to get the shifter lined up so the stick will somewhat fit in the shift plate. In neutral, the stick is at the top right corner of the shift plate so somethings so more adjustments are needed.

I only went through a six of Widmer though. lol
 

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you are working backward.
First get the shifter in the correct position, then set the rod lenths.
If you have the correct Hurst mount plate for a 68, It will have a slot for the lower shifter mount bolt. With the 2 shifter bolts lose and the rods disconnected the shifter should tilt forward and back to provide some adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks Joe. I'll do that this morning. I didn't know about that part but it makes sense. Will that adjustment go left and right too? The stick seems to be more to the right. Hopefully I don't have to bring the hammer out again.
 

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The shifter is sitting too far to the right. Is there a different BB mount plate from the SB mount plate for the Competition+ aftermarket shifter?
 

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Hurst aftermarket used the same mount plate for BB and SB.
The correct mt plate for 68 is a big plate that mounts under the trans mount and has a U bolt around trans tail. Hurst no 5284
 

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Hurst aftermarket used the same mount plate for BB and SB.
The correct mt plate for 68 is a big plate that mounts under the trans mount and has a U bolt around trans tail. Hurst no 5284
OK. That is the plate being used. The shifter sits too far right. Any suggestions?
 
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