Team Camaro Tech banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
OK, Im having second thoughts about selling my 67. So, I know it needs floors, that's pretty straight forward. What Im not used to is the rear shock towers. These have been repaired before, if you want to call it that...it looks like someone smeared bondo or roof sealer over them to cover rust holes. Next to the driver's side tower, nearer the outside of the car, is a pretty big rust hole. I looked around and under the shock towers, and noticed a bracket (for lack of a better word) that is apparently the structural part of the mount...it's OK, and not weak at all...it's almost as if the towers that you see inside the car are sort of 'covering up' the mounting location...so my question is, do I need to worry about the actual tower replacement?? I know I have to do the sheet metal work, but is what Im talking about pretty much cosmetic?? And also, are those towers, and the rusted out part that I mentioned above, part of a panel or larger assembly that I can buy to weld in?? Are they available seperately? Im not used to these partial frame cars. Sorry for all the questions!! John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,129 Posts
There are seveal layers of metal over the shock towers. The one you see from inside the trunk is thin sheet metal with a heavy plate (shock mount plate) welded to it where the top of the shock mounts. This thin sheet metal is what usually rusts and needs replaced. You will need to cut out the rusted metal from inside the trunk without going through the frame and shock tower support you see from under the car. I also had to remove my trunk pan because of rust issues which made working on the shock towers much easier. There are a couple spot welds in the trunk and in the wheel well that will need removed. I used my grinder on the ones inside the trunk because I couldn't get a drill in there. If yours are like mine, the spot welds in the wheel well were history.

The replacement patches are the thin sheet metal that you see from inside the trunk. This piece is spot welded to the frame under it and to the inside wheel well. Do a search and you will get more information. You will need to decide how much metal to cut. I bought the patches before I cut, so I didn't remove too much metal. If the rust goes beyond the patches, you probably will need to replace part of the trunk too.

Once you have the rusty metal removed, cut the patchs to fit. Start by spot welding the shock mount plate to the patch panel. I then spot welded my panels to the frame to hold them in place then I butt welded them to where they matched up with the trunk floor. Finally, I spot welded them to the inner wheel well.

It is not hard but it does take some patience and time. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Daral...that's what I will need to do. Sorry Mark, no pics yet....Im still on the fence about selling the car or not. I really hate to sell it, but I think if I let it sit there, it will do just that, and nothing will get done. Where did you get the pieces you have now??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
They are the top pieces that are described by Daral.. They were only about $30 per side.. They are quite large pieces that cover all of the shock tower Plus into the "trunk area" ..

I think my biggest hassel is going to be fixing the other lower piece of the shock tower as well, (as the way I understand it, it is 2 pieces slabbed together. ) Still need to take a closer look..

Mine were rusted all the way though, right next to the shock mount on both sides and just forward of the mount near where the floor pan contacts the rear section..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,129 Posts
Mark - You are right, there are multiple layers of metal where the shock mounts. From the top down you have the thick shock mount plate that is welded to the shock tower trunk sheet metal panels that you bought. Under this sheet metal is the support rail that runs across the car to the opposite shock tower. On the bottom is the shock mounting plate. Two bolts go through this plate and screw into the thick shock mount plate on top.

There is actually another thin piece of sheet metal between the shock tower trunk panel and support rail. Mine was so rusted, I almost didn't notice it. If the support rail that runs under the trunk between the shock towers is solid, you will be in good shape. If it is rusted beyond use, you may have some work ahead of you. Once you cut out your rusty trunk panel, you will see the support rail under it. Make sure you coat that rusty metal with some rust inhibitor or something like POR or Eastwood's encapsulator. I put a small rag on a coat hanger, soaked it in encapsulator and ran it inside the support rail between the shock towers.

When you are welding in your new sheet metal, I found it was helpful to attach it to the car with the upper and lower mounting plates. This held it down tight to the support rail and made sure all the holes will line up when you are done. Good luck. It is not hard, just a lot of work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
618 Posts
There is a hole clean though right next to the shock on the drivers side. Unfortunatly I believe this extends though the brace. I dont believe they sell just the shock tower to tower brace. The rest of it in the middle is ok, just rotted out on the ends. Ill probably have to do some fabricating when I get in that section. Good idea about attaching it together with the shock mount plates before welding.. im sure my holes would have been off.. ;)
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top