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Discussion Starter #1
I have searched the web and the threads here and was wondering if anyone has any 'actual' experience using the bearing spacers by one company or the thick bearings by the other company to use a small journal crank such as 283 in a larger journal block such as a 350? Some say they work fine,some say the crank will run hot,,,,anyone actually using them that can give me first hand experience? I have been to 2 machine shops today and they tell me that the talk on the internet is just talk,no truth,as to which 283 blocks can be bored to 4". And only 1 shop in town does sonic testing and I could buy another block for the high price they want to sonic check. One machine shop owner with 30 yr's. experience said that 90% of these 283 blocks won't bore to 4" so a 350 block and thick bearings is sounding better,but do they last?:confused:
 

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SY1 say's NOT to run bearing spacers..

I have no experience w/ them at all, sorry............

Why don't you talk to;

Crankshaft Specialists
280 Tillman St.
Memphis, TN 38112
901 - 454 - 0560
Fax 901 - 323 - 7776

as well as

Lunati
4770 Lamar ave.
Memphis, TN 38118
901 - 365 - 0950
Fax 901 - 795 - 9411

and see what they both have to say???

And I hope the contact info is still up to date??

pdq67
 

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Of the two I would choose the thick bearings. But I would spring for a new forged crank before I would use them. Thick bearings have been used successfully in the next journal size up, that is with a 377cid engine (350 crank in a SBC 400 block). Thick bearings are mostly aluminum so they do transfer heat better than two bearing surfaces would (std bearing with a spacer). Main cap registration will be critical in this type of a build.

Further, the thin wall blocks first appeared in late 1965 (October if I remember correctly) so a block cast before then will bore out safely to a 4.00" hole if there isn't any core shift. That is a big if and in every case needs to be checked.

I looked into the small journal large journal issue back when I had a wild hair to build a 327cid motor using a 400 block and a 302 crank; and the only way to get a 350 journal crankshaft is to order a lightened crank which comes in any stroke you want from 3.00" to 3.75". (Then I was going to stuff it in a Dart Little "M" block with a 350 journal size).


Larger Dave
 

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I had a 63 327(SJ) crank in a 69 327(LJ) block and it was not fun. I ended up breaking more than a motor. it was all I had at the time that i had money for. 17 yrs old 68 rs 327 camaro.

DO NOT USE SJ CRANK IN LJ BLOCK.
 

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I bought a what was suppose to be a 1962 327 (by the #'s on the block) out of a 1962 pick-up truck, I watched the bone yard cut it out. Imagine my surprise when I got the heads off and it turned out to be a 283. We concluded that early 327's apparently were over bored 283's. You should have seen how thick the cylinder wall were. I'd look for very early 283 or small journal 327. As a side note a buddy in high school had a home built 302(bored 283) that ran hot, about 210,most of the time and didn't bother driving it on hot days. Having said that it ran 11.72 w/4sp and 4.88's
 

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I have searched the web and the threads here and was wondering if anyone has any 'actual' experience using the bearing spacers by one company or the thick bearings by the other company to use a small journal crank such as 283 in a larger journal block such as a 350? Some say they work fine,some say the crank will run hot,,,,anyone actually using them that can give me first hand experience? I have been to 2 machine shops today and they tell me that the talk on the internet is just talk,no truth,as to which 283 blocks can be bored to 4". And only 1 shop in town does sonic testing and I could buy another block for the high price they want to sonic check. One machine shop owner with 30 yr's. experience said that 90% of these 283 blocks won't bore to 4" so a 350 block and thick bearings is sounding better,but do they last?:confused:
We build a few of the 283 mains and honda rod engines and we have been using the Clevite 1110-H coated bearings and seem to work fine and we have not seen to many 283 blocks that will bore to 4.000 and be safe. At least get it sonic tested if you are going to try to use one.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Only 2 shops that I know of in town that do sonic.One wants a small fortune.The other told me $80 over the phone. Well when I got there and they came out to get the block they said within 2 sec's of looking at it that it was too dirty. This block has been cleaned,painted,and honed and sitting on a stand for months. I had vasilene on the cyl.walls to keep it from rusting and he wanted to charge me a cleaning charge,,,Fowler crooks!
So I went to another shop that has agreed to charge per cylinder in case the walls are too thin. If I have too I'll junk it or cement(fill) or sleeve it. Can't beleive the machine shops are trying to manufacture work by ripping people off.
On the subject of the thick bearings,,,if the 377's work what is the difference with the bearings for the smaller 301 bearings that people say it won't last?
 

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I used the bearing spacers in my 377 (400 block, 350 crank) but I did install main studs and had them align bored, and balanced the rotating assy. I spin it to 7000 rpm with no problems, had the engine in the car for going on 3 years now. David
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks 67freak, I havn't checked it out to see what the bearing thickness difference is between the two but everyone is cool with the 377 but not with the clevite thick bearings for 283 crank in 350 block??? I agree that the spacers from childs-albert are not cool,,,,$300 for one,,,,AND,,,a spacer and a bearing,,,,sounds like high temp to me??? Didn't nascar guys use thick bearings in chevy motors with short stroke cranks? SOMEBODY HELP???
 

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Ok both me and Carl build engines with the clevite 1110H thick bearings there is know problem with using this set up. One of The type of engines i,am talking about is a Busch North engine 8500 rpm down the front straight at Watkins glen. The cranks are 283 main size and 1.888 Honda Rod Journal size.

This is the way Cup Engine builders did it untill Gm started to produce a block with the 283 main size and 4.125 bore. If you go onto Gm Site and look at there racing blocks you will see them listed this way.

Put them in check your clearance and you will be fine.
 

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We charge 40 dollars to sonic teat a block and does not have to be clean as we check them first before doing anything.

Alot of the Cup guys are using 2 inch mains and the Toyota engines are 1.750 on the mains
 

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Thanks guys,sounds like I'd be better off if I lived in Mr.Rogers neighborhood,,or Mr. Hinkson's.:D I actually wanted to go with that 377 but this 67 283 was almost gave to me on a 'horse trade' deal and Dad had a 301 in a 56 chevy when I was a youngin and I just can't get over dumpin the clutch at 6000+ and shiftin at 7000,,,,,it's kinda addictive,,,,that sound and feel of high rpm. Evidently the shops in this town know it because I'll have around $500 machine work in the bore and block prep. That is considering they don't call and say,"bad news,,,you need sleeves,,,we hit water":sad: Then,,,just keep a addin,,,,this nostalgia bug is insane,I shoulda built that 377 or a 383 would been cheaper when its all done. PAUL,,,,ARE YOU LISTENING?:D :D :D
 

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If you feel that way, then hunt up an early small journal 327 block.

My old junk301 was made using one w/ 1/8th inch over, 1/8th inch half round dome, W/JCW 283 cast pistons.

The only problem I had and I didn't care was that I had at least 7 to 8 thou skirt clearance b/c the block was wore out to begin w/ and should have been bore .030" over.

But my oldjunk301 SOB would still rpm to the moon!!

He, He!!

pdq67
 
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